Tuning a 346XP NE

[clayman]

I'm not real happy with the way my 346 is running and I am wondering if tuning it would help. First, do I need a special tool or screw driver. Second, I have never done this and could use a little advice. Assume I know nothing, which is pretty close to correct about tuning. It bogs down a right now.

Thanks,

 

[Ironworker]

If you have a dealer close by, I would try that, if not someone will be along soon. You can go to you tube or use the owners manual or just google " tuning a 346xp"

 

[Hinerman]

You're welcome.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chainsaw-tuning-101.250802/

 

[blsnelling]

Take care in that your saw has a rev limited coil. That can easily be mistaken for a rich 4-stroking condition. Take the saw considerably rich and then slowly lean it out until it runs nice and clean under load.

 

[TK]

No special tools, that saw just has standard plastic limiter caps. What is it doing to produce results you are unhappy with? Spark plug results may show rich or lean condition which will give us a better idea.

 

[SawTroll]

Saws with rev limiters are best tuned by a tach on the "H" side, to make sure it isn't riding on the rev limiter - the "L" side should be set for best trigger response/accelleration.

Those saws are known to mostly perform the best with the "H" set for 13,800 to 14,000 rpm, even though the limiter allows for a little more. Make sure it "four-strokes" slightly at WOT out of wood, and cleans up in the wood.
Like others said, be aware that running on the limiter (meaning lean) sounds about like "four-stroking", that is the reason you need the tach to verify the rpm.

 

[clayman]

The saw is a stock, and I bought it new about 3 years ago. I do not know if it has a rev limiter or not. As to what it is doing, it just does not run at the high revs it used to run at, and in, say 12" wood, it will bog pretty easy if you press it at all. I do have a dealer close by and maybe I will try that.

 

[SawTroll]

The saw is a stock, and I bought it new about 3 years ago. I do not know if it has a rev limiter or not. As to what it is doing, it just does not run at the high revs it used to run at, and in, say 12" wood, it will bog pretty easy if you press it at all. I do have a dealer close by and maybe I will try that.

That sounds like you need to take a close look at the top end, take the muffler off and inspect the piston first.....

 

[weedkilla]

Perhaps check the simplest things, air filter and spark arrestor.
If either of these are blocked it will produce those symptoms. We've all tripped up on missing the simple stuff sometimes....

 

[clayman]

I called the nearby Husky dealer (local co-op), and they said, yes they could do it, but it would be in shop about 2 weeks (sort of backed up). but I have a back up saw , my little Poulan Super 25A, so I may just do that.

I took the muffler off once to check the piston, which was fine, but I remember I had a hell of a time getting it back on, though I don't remember why; Info gone into the sea of forgetfulness I suppose.

The fuel adjustments on my saw look to be plastic stems, easy to see with the cover off but just two holes in the cover with it on. The stems are hollow. I supposed you put a small screw driver into the hole in the stem, flat, phillips, or other, to make adjustments.

I looked at the videos and read the thread, "Chainsaw Tuning 101" and did not get much out it.

Maybe I ought to read the manual.

 

[nmurph]

If you saw has a decomp it will also have a limited coil (unless it's been changed). Blue coils are pretty easy to spot by looking through the front of the starter.

The limiters (plastic tubes you see) can be removed by taking the top cover off, turning a screw into them, rotating the screw CCW while pulling on it. You may to give them a good tug, but as long as you are turning the needles CCW while doing this, you won't bottom the needles into the carb body and make the carb unuseable. Once you have them out, you can probably set them at both at 1 turn out from lightly seated and be safe.

As was mentioned, eye-ball the spark screen. If it's ok, then I would pull the muffler again and double check the piston. Remember, when you reassemble the muffler, the order is cylinder- heat shield- gasket- muffler.

 

[sunfish]

Good info above.

Might be the fuel line. They don't last much longer than 3 years for me.

 

[nmurph]

Yes, a hole in the fuel line will act like a hole in the side of a straw when you drink- it can't draw the full vacuum and the fuel won't be delivered to the carb in the quantities needed.