Two Stihl MS362C-Ms, two different spark plug sizes.

[Wisher1660]

First off, thank you all so much for the information and support you all provide in this forum. I have lurked for a long time and learned a ton.

I have two Stihl 362C-M models:
-First saw I purchased new in October 2017. It has the original Bosch R10 WSR6F spark plug.
-The other saw I purchased from the original owner and have the store receipt with an April 2021 purchase. It has a NGK CMR6H plug which I expect is original.

These are two different size plugs at the thread end. Can someone enlighten me on why they are different? Maybe a revised version (generation) of the MS362 between those years?

Since I was already looking:
-MS193T has a Bosch R10 USR4AC. The manual calls for a NGK CMR6H. I'm not the original owner so it could have been replaced.
-MS201T C-M (June 2018) has an original NGK CMR6H
-MS441 has an NGK BPMR7A. Looks like this plug cross references to an Bosch R10 WSR6F. I'm not the original owner so it could have been replaced.

In any case, I'm looking to grab a few spare plugs of both type while I can still afford them.

And sorry in advance if this has been discussed already and I didn't find it when I searched the forum.

Thanks!

 

[L34]

Some later saws have the smaller plugs.
BPMR7A correct plug for most Stihls.

 

[leecopland]

Good Morning Folks,

Looking for a source of air filters for my 7000 and 65cc, and 55cc Partner saws

 

[pioneerguy600]

A handy spark Plug application chart for chainsaws,
https://www.jthomasparts.com/web-as...rt - Spark Plug Chainsaw Application 2020.pdf

 

[huskihl]

They revised the later models. The fins are shaped differently on the cylinder as well I believe

 

[forstmeister]

First off, thank you all so much for the information and support you all provide in this forum. I have lurked for a long time and learned a ton.

I have two Stihl 362C-M models:
-First saw I purchased new in October 2017. It has the original Bosch R10 WSR6F spark plug.
-The other saw I purchased from the original owner and have the store receipt with an April 2021 purchase. It has a NGK CMR6H plug which I expect is original.

These are two different size plugs at the thread end. Can someone enlighten me on why they are different? Maybe a revised version (generation) of the MS362 between those years?

Since I was already looking:
-MS193T has a Bosch R10 USR4AC. The manual calls for a NGK CMR6H. I'm not the original owner so it could have been replaced.
-MS201T C-M (June 2018) has an original NGK CMR6H
-MS441 has an NGK BPMR7A. Looks like this plug cross references to an Bosch R10 WSR6F. I'm not the original owner so it could have been replaced.

In any case, I'm looking to grab a few spare plugs of both type while I can still afford them.

And sorry in advance if this has been discussed already and I didn't find it when I searched the forum.

Thanks!

My MS362 takes the NGK CMR6H spark plugs, I bought it new in 2021 I believe. When I bought a service kit for this saw it came with the NGK BMPR7A plug-which was confusing and annoying. Luckily my MS201 take the 6H plug as well so I had a spare.

I just bought a MS261, which takes the 7A plug...

 

[huskihl]

My MS362 takes the NGK CMR6H spark plugs, I bought it new in 2021 I believe. When I bought a service kit for this saw it came with the NGK BMPR7A plug-which was confusing and annoying. Luckily my MS201 take the 6H plug as well so I had a spare.

I just bought a MS261, which takes the 7A plug...

You have the newer style 362. The kit you bought was for the older 362

 

[tgbanshee]

Reviving this older thread. Rebuilt an MS362 some months back using the newest P/C kit from Stihl (pull from a new saw off eBay so over $100 cheaper than new from dealer) but I was hesitant to use the cylinder as the plug size was the smaller 10mm and my stock cylinder has the 3/4" plug. The old cylinder walls were pretty clean so I just swapped in the new piston/wrist pin (researched this and determined it is ok) and kept the old cylinder, been running fine. I now have a brand new spare cylinder with the 10mm plug size that I'm trying to determine if I can ever use.

Does anyone know if the angled fin 10mm plug cylinder can be substituted for the angled fin 3/4 plug cylinder without changing the ignition module, intake boot, or anything else?

Also, does either "angled fin" cylinder work with both M-Tronic V1 and V2?

 

[tgbanshee]

Reviving this older thread. Rebuilt an MS362 some months back using the newest P/C kit from Stihl (pull from a new saw off eBay so over $100 cheaper than new from dealer) but I was hesitant to use the cylinder as the plug size was the smaller 10mm and my stock cylinder has the 3/4" plug. The old cylinder walls were pretty clean so I just swapped in the new piston/wrist pin (researched this and determined it is ok) and kept the old cylinder, been running fine. I now have a brand new spare cylinder with the 10mm plug size that I'm trying to determine if I can ever use.

Does anyone know if the angled fin 10mm plug cylinder can be substituted for the angled fin 3/4 plug cylinder without changing the ignition module, intake boot, or anything else?

Also, does either "angled fin" cylinder work with both M-Tronic V1 and V2?

Bump from 6 months ago...

 

[Lightning Performance]

Reviving this older thread. Rebuilt an MS362 some months back using the newest P/C kit from Stihl (pull from a new saw off eBay so over $100 cheaper than new from dealer) but I was hesitant to use the cylinder as the plug size was the smaller 10mm and my stock cylinder has the 3/4" plug. The old cylinder walls were pretty clean so I just swapped in the new piston/wrist pin (researched this and determined it is ok) and kept the old cylinder, been running fine. I now have a brand new spare cylinder with the 10mm plug size that I'm trying to determine if I can ever use.

Does anyone know if the angled fin 10mm plug cylinder can be substituted for the angled fin 3/4 plug cylinder without changing the ignition module, intake boot, or anything else?

Also, does either "angled fin" cylinder work with both M-Tronic V1 and V2?

362 V1 was a carb no Mtron.
362 V2 is mtron 2 fat spark plug
362 V3 is Mtron 3 thin spark plug
Some could be thick plug mtron 3 idk.
Other changes apply like fin setback angle matching the plastics. Covers of LW version fit the earlier saws and many parts like clutch covers do swap out directly.
Clear as mud

 

[tgbanshee]

362 V1 was a carb no Mtron.
362 V2 is mtron 2 fat spark plug
362 V3 is Mtron 3 thin spark plug
Some could be thick plug mtron 3 idk.
Other changes apply like fin setback angle matching the plastics. Covers of LW version fit the earlier saws and many parts like clutch covers do swap out directly.
Clear as mud

Been a while and wanted to follow-up. With all that being said, FUNCTIONALLY can a "362 V3 Mtron 3 thin spark plug" cylinder be used in a "362 V2 mtron 2" saw that originally came with the "fat spark plug" cylinder without changing anything else?

Physically the cylinder fits perfectly, piston size is the same, as well as crank stroke. Trying to determine if either ignition will work with either plug (question this mainly due to the different heat range). Electrode gap specs for both plugs look to be .028". Resistance is also 10k ohms for both.

NGK 4626 BPMR7A "Fat" 3/4" plug heat range is 7
NGK 3365 CMR6H "Thin" 5/8" plug heat range is 6

The reason for all this is I have a 362M V2 saw currently running with it's factory "fat plug" cylinder (new crank bearings/seals and a new piston/rings from a V3). I also have an uninstalled new V3 "thin plug" cylinder and am trying to figure out whether to keep the V3 "thin plug" cylinder for the next rebuild of this saw or to eBay it.

 

[Tobystihl]

The early fat plug 362's had a habit of stripping out the spark plug threads in the cylinder, I think cylinders etc are interchangeably, what is a pain is that there's three or four different plastic top covers and two or three different choke levers, so if you make a frankenstein, it's a bit painful trying to work out which one will fit
Good saws when running, not too popular here in the UK as they are a bit heavy and a bit of an inbetween saw in the size department.

 

[stihltech]

No reason to start switching things around. Stay with the original on the original.

 

[Lightning Performance]

If you can change the cylinder make sure the top cover fits and the intake parts. Swapping things around is never a fun game unless your moving forward to new parts and leaving the unobtainable behind. Stange thing is many will tell you parts are not available or new stuff is better. I find just about anything if you look a bit. That said new parts are not always better in design of functions.

The heat range of your plug being a 6 or 7 is basically irrelevant in a stock class build. 6 would be better in extreme heat. I see no issues running either one.


If your jug is a direct bolt on keep it. If not ship it. Check all the details, physically, on your tool.

Never had issues with spark plug threads in aluminum heads. Many just forget to ever clean them with a tap or thread chaser once in a blue moon.