If i can't drop an unsafe climb; i a)tie into another tree on , b)perhaps brace against the lean (if no lean, pull one way with a couple guys on a 3/1,then straighten back with truck) at high leverage guying/compressing sometimes using the constricting choke of the sling/bowline hitching to brace a vertical fracture, perhaps on a ladder c)get a bucket orrrrrrrrr d)invoke my final safety right, and walk while these lil'feats still can!
Personally i always notch instead of fighting the compressing of wood where the face would be, i think of it as removing a chock from in front of a tire so that force can flow. Though, i've not tried to uproot something! If it was safe i might try violating roots on the off side of the pull (perhaps after bracing tree with rig some) that had the most leveraged (outreaching) resistance to the proposed pull.
Sounds like a lot of line, 5x line supported by another line, really it seems that you would just need enough to fight line stretch and make the tree commit and not settle back. Seems to me that the 5/1 placed 40' in the tree (not the top?), and the men pulling in a clear area outside the fall would be over 60' of travel for the 5/1 or 300'+ of line? Even if the final return (from load) line (that can have a knot for it doesn't flow through any pulleys)was a seperate 60'+, that would be 1 stick of line @ 240' +(my longest is 200' without knots). If, that 40 ' anchor isn't the top, you would need even more line, or kinda fudge that the men would be clear by the time it dropped.
i speak a lot about slow controlled drops; this doesn't go for bad wood above or below ground, for all that slow dropping and steering depends on the hinge and roots for brake force and anchoring respectively. For, even a healthy tree's root system can move underground the more brakeforce (slow dropping massive weight on the end of a 40' lever using the stump as anchor for hinge/ braking device) that is called from it, if there is tightly bound wires or pipes they can break very easily in the most successfull drop, because all of that force is being fought somehow!
Hmmmmm, o yes in accordance with the Maas Full Disclosure State-Meant, my real name is Ken Casey; when i started on another webboard, it wouldn't let me be KC(my initials and phoenetically last name, that i usually go by.........-in polite society anyways!! ), said that was too short (how'd they know?). So, i just went with my emailname (that took years to come up with, the first computer i was on the net with had a whopping 10meg drive........)TheTreeSpyder that i had for those many years previous, kinda felt that was less bold(not really that way hence going by 'short' initials and small i's) and others seemed not to use theirs; but anyway it is "Spy-der" for the quiet watcher; kinda on purpose........
Personally i always notch instead of fighting the compressing of wood where the face would be, i think of it as removing a chock from in front of a tire so that force can flow. Though, i've not tried to uproot something! If it was safe i might try violating roots on the off side of the pull (perhaps after bracing tree with rig some) that had the most leveraged (outreaching) resistance to the proposed pull.
Sounds like a lot of line, 5x line supported by another line, really it seems that you would just need enough to fight line stretch and make the tree commit and not settle back. Seems to me that the 5/1 placed 40' in the tree (not the top?), and the men pulling in a clear area outside the fall would be over 60' of travel for the 5/1 or 300'+ of line? Even if the final return (from load) line (that can have a knot for it doesn't flow through any pulleys)was a seperate 60'+, that would be 1 stick of line @ 240' +(my longest is 200' without knots). If, that 40 ' anchor isn't the top, you would need even more line, or kinda fudge that the men would be clear by the time it dropped.
i speak a lot about slow controlled drops; this doesn't go for bad wood above or below ground, for all that slow dropping and steering depends on the hinge and roots for brake force and anchoring respectively. For, even a healthy tree's root system can move underground the more brakeforce (slow dropping massive weight on the end of a 40' lever using the stump as anchor for hinge/ braking device) that is called from it, if there is tightly bound wires or pipes they can break very easily in the most successfull drop, because all of that force is being fought somehow!
Hmmmmm, o yes in accordance with the Maas Full Disclosure State-Meant, my real name is Ken Casey; when i started on another webboard, it wouldn't let me be KC(my initials and phoenetically last name, that i usually go by.........-in polite society anyways!! ), said that was too short (how'd they know?). So, i just went with my emailname (that took years to come up with, the first computer i was on the net with had a whopping 10meg drive........)TheTreeSpyder that i had for those many years previous, kinda felt that was less bold(not really that way hence going by 'short' initials and small i's) and others seemed not to use theirs; but anyway it is "Spy-der" for the quiet watcher; kinda on purpose........
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