Used saws

[FISH BAIT]

I am wondering how most of Yall feel about purchasing used saws. I realize that it's one thing if you are buying it from someone you know personally. But, how about from someone you've never met. Even more so via the Internet. I'm no saw expert so I have to take some things I'm told at face value. I know there are some deals that for the $$$$ you would come out ahead even after a total rebuild, but I don't know that amount.

In a previous thread gemniii replied about a used 066 for sale, that's what got me thinking. I was planing on buying a new ms660 some time next year but don't know now.

Thanks FB:newbie:

 

[BobL]

All my saws except my 880 are used saws. The 880 was about a year old and had never been used and managed to get it for just less than half rrp.

 

[Mntn Man]

When I buy a used saw, usually it has to be in good shape. I am particular with my stuff and I don't want something that's been beat to death. I am not going to buy something for the joy of restoring like some on here like to do. I will buy a saw that is rough if the price is right and I want it for something specific like resale or a project that I don't want to subject my good saws to.

I am still mad about a Mac 10-10 at a second hand store that had a price tag of $7 on it. I didn't buy it just because I was with my wife in her vehicle and I didn't want to haul it around in it all weekend. It was in great shape and I know I could have made money on it.

 

[gemniii]

Buying to me means giving something up, usually money, for something I need or want. So to me there are great tradeoffs between what I'll pay for what I want. My Dad used to say I made pennies scream.

Stihl 021 - I bought NEW - YEARS ago, needed it NOW.

Efco 3600 - I bought new, I didn't need it, it was new w/ warranty marked $220 at Northern Tools. But they were closing out that model, so they marked it down to $99, and then a Managers sale came along and reduced it to $50 and the guy threw in an extra chain.

JD CS 62 - I bought raffle tickets to help donate money to litefoot's brother, who had had a stroke. My wife was just recovering from a stroke. The saw was basically new http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=109333


/edit - and I did have to replace the rope on the #1 660, cost about a buck or less.
#1 Stihl 660 - Ebay- after a lot of research on both saws and sellers, bought used $511.

#2 Stihl 660 - the other raffle saw, redlinefever decided he was going to sell it after he got it Snellerized bought thru here $700.

So in summary - Buying used you should get a significant discount off new but you can be gambling with savings versus expenses. And you should include your time in expenses. If I have to spend 10 hours getting the best price on something that's worth several hundred to me. I had to do that with the #1 660. The other saws were instant decisions.

As my first "bigger" saw I wasn't sure how well I could handle a 660 and if it was worth it. I KNEW if I bought a used 660 I could probably sell it for about what I paid. However, I was hesitant about dropping over $1K on a saw and then having to sell it for $600.

If you research both the saw and seller you should do well on a used 660.

But don't necessarily "trust" members here either, there have been some major threads about members trying to pull a quick one on someone else.

Bottom line if you want piece of mind buy new. If you want more toys for the same $$ search, research, and buy used. The saws in my sig, except for the 021, cost me about $1260. A little more than 1 new 660.

good luck and MERRY CHRISTMAS!!

 

[mrbentontoyou]

Well from one :newbie: to another here's my personal rationalization-

i wanted a 90+cc saw for milling.

For the price of a new 395xp I got :

-used 394xp (looks rough runs great), 33" bar/chains, 42" bar/chains

-48" alaskan mill

-used 036 (looks great runs great), 20" bar/chains, 24" bar/chains

-full compliment of PPE

-chain sharpening gear

-cases of bar oil and mix

-various parts/tools for maintaining the saws

So far I've had to learn to replace clutch springs, repair a chain brake, learn to tune the carb, clean/replace filters, trouble shoot flywheel/coil/plug wire,etc. This is the some of the stuff I want to know before/if i drop big coin on a new saw.

There is enough info here and on the rest of the web, you can easily do the research and see what fair market value is and what to look for/look out for when buying a used saw (especially for a model as popular as a 066/660).

good luck!


((( Just read Geminii's post, what he said!!!)))

 

[nickelmore]

Figure on repairs

If you cant remove the muffler and do a compression check before you buy,

and they are non runners just figure out the price of a rebuild.

I am doing a couple now, Bought them all non running, One just needed a 4$45 brake cable, and the 260 I may be able to get away with a piston after a few more acid scrubs.

Even if I have to buy a new Jug and piston, gasket set, carb rebuild, paint, etc. I will have anywhere from $75.00 to 175 each in these saws and have almost new saws.

I personnaly am not doing it to "make money" My goal is to have a couple of good saws with little out of pocket money.

 

[htpd43]

I agree with all the previous posts. 2 of my saws are new (2150 & 2165). The rest acquired or purchased used. Some (3 or 4?) from ebay, several from my jonsered dealer. He has earned my trust and occasionally gets a nice trade in when jonsered offers cash for trade ins. I got 3 used from him - the 625, one of the 2054s and a 2135t. Be careful who you buy from and if you are not sure don't do it - it's one thing to have to replace something when you know what the flaw is in advance. Entirely different when you're lied too. Like the 2137 i bought on eBay which was assembled in the pics but was shipped in pieces. So I guess what I'm saying is every experience is different.
Good luck
Lou

 

[FISH BAIT]

Thanks

I agree with everything Yall have said. Like many of Yall, I am very meticulous with my tools and equipment so quality is a huge concern. 1300$ (new) is allot of $$$ for a specialized tool that will see limited use.

I'm also very handy with a wrench, though I don't have much experience with chainsaws. I did do a simple muff mod and carb retune on the 390 I'm using, rebuilt carb on 025, and changed the clutch on a 290.

I'm just have issues buying something I can't hold in my hands (buying via Internet). Down here on the coast big saws are rare. Most of the dealers I have talked to said they only sell maby 3 or 4 660s and 880s every year or two, and finding one used is almost impossible.

Like nickelmore said
"If you cant remove the muffler and do a compression check before you buy,
and they are non runners just figure out the price of a rebuild." I would love to get my hands on a good use one.

Thanks for all the comments. FB

 

[Brmorgan]

I don't ever plan on buying a new saw unless it's such a good deal that it would be stupid not to, but I can also do 99% of my own repair and modification work, so I don't worry about breakdowns that much and warranty isn't really a big selling point to me, since I'd probably just do the work on my own to save time anyway. And especially where something as punishing as milling is concerned, I'd just as soon let someone else take the major depreciation hit since I won't be doing the saw any favors! Just for an example though, I bought a blown 066 at the pawnshop for $100 as parts. A $50 Meteor piston, new air filter, carb rebuild, clutch springs and new rim, and it was up and running (very well, too) for another $100 and is now the milling saw that sees the most use. And I can still afford to blow it up a few times before it'll have cost me what a new 660 would ($1200+ up here)! I sold the nice 660 I had at the time and made over $400 on it, and still had the 066. I still have enough parts and a new piston to rebuild another 066, but it needs crank bearings, which at ~$35 apiece isn't cheap for a saw I don't really need badly. It's on the to-do list though. If you're not in a huge hurry

I did similar to the aforementioned when I got into milling three years back - for the price of a new 395, I got a used one from my dealer which had been thoroughly gone over and guaranteed by his tech (whom I know and trust), a used 50 from the pawnshop, a 36" Alaskan, two rip chains for my 33" bar, and a bunch of spare parts and some tools, wedges, files etc. I think I paid $650 or something for the used 395 - roughly half of new - and that's still the most I've paid for any saw by a wide margin; the next was my 084 for $450 (!) a few months back.

Also for what it's worth, if you're at all mechanically inclined and have the appropriate tools, working on saws is not really all that difficult, just a bit daunting at first because of all the small parts. But with a good illustrated parts list (IPL) on hand and help from this site you should be able to do most repair and maintenance yourself in time.

 

[gemniii]

I agree with everything Yall have said. Like many of Yall, I am very meticulous with my tools and equipment so quality is a huge concern. 1300$ (new) is allot of $$$ for a specialized tool that will see limited use. < snip >

To me it was the difference or "loss" between new cost and used cost compared to slightly used and beat to dog stool.

When I bought in January new w/ tax was about $1200, fairly "high end" e-bay orl CL was running about $700. Thus a $500 loss to play with the saw and decide it wasn't for me. Whereas a "good running" used was $600 and "parts" saws were $400, thus only a $200 potential loss.

I'm just have issues buying something I can't hold in my hands (buying via Internet). Down here on the coast big saws are rare. Most of the dealers I have talked to said they only sell maby 3 or 4 660s and 880s every year or two, and finding one used is almost impossible.

Same issue for me. Around Washington DC a CL search for 880 turns up Harmony 880, a TV remote (good one, I've got one). Of the four Stihl shops in my local area Tommy's is probably the best and he says he might sell ONE 880/year and 660's are rare. During months of searching I've only found a couple of 660's within a couple of hours driving distance.

Like nickelmore said
"If you cant remove the muffler and do a compression check before you buy,
and they are non runners just figure out the price of a rebuild." I would love to get my hands on a good use one.

Thanks for all the comments. FB

You can request a compression reading. On ebay you can USUALLY get your money back if you get a saw not as described. There are several "big" sellers on ebay that focus on saws and have high reputations. The risk on ebay is not that great if you buy from quality saw sellers.

The REAL risk is that you keep on deciding "well, only 1 more saw", that's where it gets expensive.

Read up on some of the "ebay price threads", right now prices are several hundred higher for 660's than what I expect in January, it's the fall/Christmas peak.

And your initial comment about "limited use" - I'm in the center of 1/4 acre lot suburbia, I make sure I fire up one of my toys at least once a week just to listen to them roar. If your into CSM you always need more lumber.

 

[TMFARM 2009]

I have bought and sold saws on ebay i will say i have been lucky so far..... I have seen some high dollar saws go for cheap... And have seen some idiots get stupid over entry level saws paying more then retail... All i have up right now is a cs370 16" but there are a few large saws on now...i would say here in another week they should cheapen up a little.... Some advise is to look for pawn shops selling and dont bid until last 1 minute of auction....too many sellers on there will run up bids for each other,if they get stuck with it they resale it...there are a few big saws from texas & arizona on....http://cgi.ebay.com/Echo-CS-8000-36-Chain-Saw-/120660419930?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1c17ebe55a

 

[Thorcw]

I figure if the deal is good enough ill go used but I also work on my own saws and equipment. Nothing that could be wrong with it scares me. What scares me is the local stihl dealer price gougers and they dont tune the saws before they leave.

 

[jimdad07]

If I did not know much about fixing my own and still wanted to go used, I would buy from the trading post right here on AS. Most of us here keep our saws in top condition, we would get laughed off of the computer if we didn't. After that I would spend some time reading in the chainsaw forum and you will learn all you'll ever need to know about fixing your own.

 

[jczv]

If I did not know much about fixing my own and still wanted to go used, I would buy from the trading post right here on AS. Most of us here keep our saws in top condition, we would get laughed off of the computer if we didn't. After that I would spend some time reading in the chainsaw forum and you will learn all you'll ever need to know about fixing your own.

I fall into the category of someone who doesn't know much about chainsaws but buys used. If you buy on craigslist at least you can generally try out the saw, and look it over. For saws on this site it helps the you can search the sellers posts - you generally get some idea about the person - I generally only will buy from someone who's been on the site awhile. Even if you don't buy through ebay it's good to sign up. Then you can do a 'completed' items search which will give you the prices different models sold for. It gives you some idea of value.

 

[Bodinator]

New to AS, Thanks, and newbie CSM questions-recomm.

Greetings all from Southwest Virginia.

I certainly appreciate your comments about saws, used and new. I've got a Stihl MS 390 (love it) and keep it in top form (well, does sawdust count?).

Basically, I have access to some logs from time to time (plus forested hillside behind my house for firewood), and I could put word out that I'm getting into this. I'm interested in starting in with CSM, both for making beams and lumber for my own use as well as a handful of guys I know who don't have chainsaw experience. I can be patient, planning to get started next summer, and budget is around $700 for saw, mill, and accessories. Am I dreaming? I (think) I'd like to get started with the Alsakan Mark III, but I have to plan the saw purchase also.

A little more background: Log sizes to mill are expected to be 10" to 24" for starters, though something bigger than that could be a possibility down the road. For species, we have maple, cherry, hickory, white oak, red oak, white ash... Being from the western US and then moving here it boggles my mind how much great timber there is here that goes in the fireplace. Anyway, please let me know if you think I'm on the right track. Much thanks, Bodi.

 

[gemniii]

I'm interested in starting in with CSM, both for making beams and lumber for my own use as well as a handful of guys I know who don't have chainsaw experience. I can be patient, planning to get started next summer, and budget is around $700 for saw, mill, and accessories. Am I dreaming? I (think) I'd like to get started with the Alsakan Mark III, but I have to plan the saw purchase also.

A little more background: Log sizes to mill are expected to be 10" to 24" for starters, though something bigger than that could be a possibility down the road. For species, we have maple, cherry, hickory, white oak, red oak, white ash... Being from the western US and then moving here it boggles my mind how much great timber there is here that goes in the fireplace. Anyway, please let me know if you think I'm on the right track. Much thanks, Bodi.

$700 may crimp your saw choice. I only know a little about 1 line of saws, Stihl and a dash about Efco.
If you are going to be doing North American Hardwood at 24" you should try for a 660 (7hp plus) class machine with a good oiler, side chain tensioner, inboard clutch and parts availability.
My breakdown for initial milling was about $250 because I won the JD CS62 here. That was big enough to mill 14" wide wood and VERY SLOWLY 20" wood. So I paid $200 for an Alaskan mark III and bought about $50 of chain, oil fuel etc.

I'm sure if I tried to continue milling 18" to 20" wood I would have burned the saw out.

In January I bought a rebuilt Stihl 660 powerhead off ebay for $510 and added a 42" B&C for milling ($125). That has handled 24" wood with authority and should be good for 36" wood.

Thus with costs of:
Alaskan - $200
42" B&C - $125
Fuel, oil, extra chains etc. at least $75
You've sucked up $400 out of your $700 budget.

If your handy welding etc there are a number of plans here for mills, but you really need a 7hp or better saw for your wood.

Of course just a couple of weeks ago there was one for sale on AS for $475

\edit - Just be careful don't follow some of BobL's more complicated designs - unless you have the raw materials for free they could be expensive.

 

[fawncreekranch]

For buying used saws in person I recommend learning as much as possible About the saws your interested in from the chainsaw forum. My stihl Husqvarna dealer in town has a used saw section at the back of the store. He looks over the saws really well before he takes them as a trade or whatever. You will then also get the same good dealer service (minus the warranty).