So received the chain shaprner on Friday. Finally had a chance to get it out of the box last night. You folks were right the directions are worthless. Any helpful hints on use or step by step directions on use? Also I have a Husquvarna H35 chain (3/8" 1,3mm) any idea what wheel to use or what angles? ANy help would be appreciated.
Using Northern Tool Chain Sharpener
- Thread starter Bluefan
- Start date
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if there is a scale for the angle of the head about 60 deg should be ok. on the front lower portion set the chain clamp over to about 25-30 deg.
The adjustment for the depth of stroke should be just far enough to clean up the cutter but not so far as to cut into the tie straps. For cutters on your side of the unit the high side when tipping the clamp will be towards you. Reverse this for the off side. The amount you remove from the cutter should be just enough to remove any rounded edges or a rolled over point. Hope this helps some.
The adjustment for the depth of stroke should be just far enough to clean up the cutter but not so far as to cut into the tie straps. For cutters on your side of the unit the high side when tipping the clamp will be towards you. Reverse this for the off side. The amount you remove from the cutter should be just enough to remove any rounded edges or a rolled over point. Hope this helps some.
WidowMaker
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bluefan'
This subject has been beat to death on here, if you'll use the search function you find page upon page of reading on the care an feeding of the Northern Grinder..It's a good grinder, enjoy your reading...
This subject has been beat to death on here, if you'll use the search function you find page upon page of reading on the care an feeding of the Northern Grinder..It's a good grinder, enjoy your reading...
deerlakejens
ArboristSite Operative
Go to the Chainsaw site and do the search for the grinder. Then get a large cup of coffee and a comfortable chair and get prepared to learn all you need to know to upgrade and operate the machine. It is well worth the time and effort.
BigE
ArboristSite Operative
Definitely do a google search on the Oregon 511a manual. This is a clone of the Oregon machine. As with all clones, the original is better - even the manual.
Funny, though, my instructions and the Oregon manual instructions both included the same picture, but in my manual for some reason it looked like a photocopy...
Funny, though, my instructions and the Oregon manual instructions both included the same picture, but in my manual for some reason it looked like a photocopy...
avalancher
Arboristsite Raconteur
Definitely do a google search on the Oregon 511a manual. This is a clone of the Oregon machine. As with all clones, the original is better - even the manual.
Funny, though, my instructions and the Oregon manual instructions both included the same picture, but in my manual for some reason it looked like a photocopy...
Yep, the chinese will take any shortcut they can think of!
Blowncrewcab
ArboristSite Guru
The Real Oregon manual is here------>http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/accessories/511AManual_3Lang.pdf
Last edited:
Definitely do a google search on the Oregon 511a manual. This is a clone of the Oregon machine. As with all clones, the original is better - even the manual.
Funny, though, my instructions and the Oregon manual instructions both included the same picture, but in my manual for some reason it looked like a photocopy...
Thanks for everyone's help. I just got mine last week also and I'll be searching tomorrow and printing the Oregon manual.
BigE
ArboristSite Operative
Look on page 17 of the Oregon manual.
If you have normal 3/8", my guess is that you want the 3/16" width wheel, especially if you use the 7/32" file or a 3/16" file.
If you have low pro 3/8", then you'll want to use the 1/8" wheel.
The 5/16" wheel is for the big stuff.
If you have normal 3/8", my guess is that you want the 3/16" width wheel, especially if you use the 7/32" file or a 3/16" file.
If you have low pro 3/8", then you'll want to use the 1/8" wheel.
The 5/16" wheel is for the big stuff.
98% the 1/8" or the 3-3.5mm
BigE
ArboristSite Operative
I looked up the H35 chain.
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/accessories/product-accessories/chains/h35-3-8-mini-1,3-mm/
From what they say about it, this looks like the Stihl pico 63 or Oregon 91. Either way, I'd try the 1/8" first. It should just fit into the tooth.
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/accessories/product-accessories/chains/h35-3-8-mini-1,3-mm/
From what they say about it, this looks like the Stihl pico 63 or Oregon 91. Either way, I'd try the 1/8" first. It should just fit into the tooth.
BigE
ArboristSite Operative
there is a thinner wheel yet for the really tiny chains apx 3/32, damn near have to use a 10x loupe just to see the cutters
Blowncrewcab
ArboristSite Guru
The dummy part just comes from experiance, I know I have turned a few cutters blue from heat, and when I see the blue I think to myself "Dummy"! but lately I have been setting my grinder up to match the angles of a brand new chain-by using a brand new chain to set it up, then when the time comes I just barely have to kiss the cutters with the stone, but you'll learn that just a kiss is all you ever want to do, if you need to take off more, kiss it again, trying to take off allot at once is just going to turn it blue, then it's toast.
Bluefan, I bought one of these grinders this winter, have had pretty good luck with it so far. I think the trial & error method is the best way to learn, after reading the manuals so many times, things become clear as mud.
I'd put a chain on it, and SEE how things line up, and how things are suppose to be, becomes much clearer to the mind. Like what the different angles do or mean. I ordered a couple supposedly better quality wheels from Bailey's, for mine, never did try the ones that came with it.
If you look at chain box, most of the angles are listed for the different style chains. Or, can look up that on manufactures web site. I do mostly Oregon LGX chain 3/8, and use 25 degrees and the 10 degree tilt, Woodland pro chain the same, except for 30 degree cutter angle. Use the middle size stone, 3/16 I think it is.
Have used it for Oregon 3/8 LP (low profile) chain also. Same 25 degrees, but with 0 tilt. Use the 1/8 wheel for that chain. I'm not a Pro, but do cut allot of firewood, and its been doing a great job for me. Like someone else mentioned, just don't grind into the tie straps, and take quick, light taps on the cutters, to avoid overheating them. When ya start out, go lightly. Then make small minute adjustments, untill its doing the job, but not grinding half the cutter away..lol
Its a lot easier to do, than to write about it..
Good luck with it!!
Gregg,
Tendencies
ArboristSite Lurker
As was stated above, use a new chain and write down the angles, then go to your dull chains and go at it, also agree if it turns blue NOT GOOD!!! go slow and just take a little off, don't get gonzo!! You'll pick it up pretty fast and wonder why you've been fondling them files for all these years!!
