Wajax pump trouble shoot

[Chucksta]

Spray the water back into the barrel.

I wish it was that easy.. The intake ( suction line), is rigid, so that it won't collapse under the suction of the pump. It comes in ten foot sections, with the last piece having the suction screen, a float / sinker combo to keep the intake under water, but above the lake bed, and a one way valve to prime it .. You prime it by opening the top of the pump cavity , and then slam the hose back and forth in the water until water comes out of the pump housing.

The business end of the hose, is on a minimum of 50 ft. of woven mesh line, that's rated for 600 P.S.I. When the pump gets it's mojo on, it's a handful, to say the least. The system is meant to cut into the ground, up to a foot deep, to establish a cut line, to stop a bush fire. Even on a lower R.P.M. setting, you've gotta curve the pressurized line around, it won't tolerate a sharp bend.



There's no valve on the hose end on the one we have.. When it comes off idle, and clears it's throat, and really starts pumping.. You'd better be leaning forwards.. It'll throw water over 100 ft in the air.

 

[Chucksta]

So you can tedt both at the same time. Grab that inline tester, plug it in, grab a bottle of fuel to give it a squirt and go test it. When it starts to die, and the light is still lit give it a squirt of fuel. Simple and direct way to test it.

Wednesday night is the next fire practice.. gonna bring that up and see what the "committee " says.. Then again, I might just do it myself, and see what happens. Forgiveness is easier to obtain than permission..

It's hard to fire a volunteer.. LOL.

 

[sean donato]

Sounds like it. I wouldn't do well in that situation, but I'm also a mechanic so I likely would have told everyone to shimmy up a catus and fixed it.

 

[Cfaller]

Sounds like you have the manual, so go to page 17 and set the low and high screws to what it says to. Follow the steps on the following page to get it set correct for your elevation, operating environment. I run these pumps on mile long hose lays and it is all about how well you can adjust the carb. Also run 24:1 in them as I'm sure you don't have the new $7k Watson that runs on 50:1.

 

[MudgeHollowBeaver]

I think earlier versions of this pump used a Rotax 185 2 stroke engine...very reliable workhorse. We still fly with these engines on Lazair ultralight airplanes

 

[Chucksta]

Sounds like you have the manual, so go to page 17 and set the low and high screws to what it says to. Follow the steps on the following page to get it set correct for your elevation, operating environment. I run these pumps on mile long hose lays and it is all about how well you can adjust the carb. Also run 24:1 in them as I'm sure you don't have the new $7k Watson that runs on 50:1.

I've checked the mixture screws.. As per the manual, 1 turn out from seated. Although they weren't exactly 1 turn out, they were pretty close ( low a touch rich, high just a touch lean). I put them back adjusted as they were. Starting and warm up performance is fine, and, it takes throttle up without an issue. But, no matter what.. about 90 seconds to 120 seconds after going to full power, it just slowly dies. One thing that I haven't tried, is to tweak the high screw as it starts to die ( from running great, to stopped is about 15 to 20 seconds). Popping off the air filter and spraying fuel into it as it dies, is on the "to do" list. But, what has been tried, is squeezing the primer bulb as it dies.. That kills it immediately.

Then the whole crew runs over.. things get pushed. .. levers get moved.. starter gets yanked. again and again and again.. fuel line gets disconnected and reconnected... Finally, it stutters into life.. and the cycle repeats itself. The working definition of insanity, is repeating the same action, and expecting a different result Yes, we can be a dysfunctional family.

Running environment ..500 ft. above sea level... 70F to 80 F. Hose lay of 50 or 100 ft.

The downloaded manual shows an original print date of 2015, and it is marked " Revision 2", which implies changes from original printing. As per the graphic .. it looks identical to our rather used unit.

As per the revised ( 2015 original, revised ver.2 manual)...

GASOLINE: 87 octane unleaded automotive gasoline (maximum 10% ethanol)
OIL: High quality two-cycle mixing oil with API-TC, JASO-FD and ISO-L-EGD certification (e.g., Amsoil Saber® Professional Synthetic)
FUEL MIX RATIO: 50:1 (gas to oil)
Note: Not enough emphasis can be placed on the use of correct gasoline and oil mixture. Using less than the recommended portion of oil will cause overheating and possible engine damage. Using more than the recommended proportion of oil will cause spark plug fouling, erratic carburetion, excessive exhaust smoke and rapid carbon deposits.

Could the revision(s) be that recommended use of premium synthetic oil was the reason for the 50 to 1 ratio recommendation?

In my Landscaping company, I had 2 LawnBoy mowers that were marked 32 to 1 .. I fed them 70 to 1, Pre3mium Ethanol free Premium, a splash of SeaFoam, mixed with Amsoil Saber, and they loved it. Bought used, and then I put hundreds of hours on them without issue. But, there's no way I would have tried that if I wasn't using a premium synthetic. Same mix that went into line trimmers, blowers, chainsaws. It was easy to just have 1 or 2 . 2 stroke cans, with identical mixes.

24 to 1 vs 50 to 1 is literally half the lubrication.. I can't see that there were changes in the engines that would only require half the lubrication. But then again, engine design, requirements of lubrications, etc., etc., aren't anything that I have any expertise in.

 

[Chucksta]

Sounds like it. I wouldn't do well in that situation, but I'm also a mechanic so I likely would have told everyone to shimmy up a catus and fixed it.

My mouth is bloody from biting my tongue..

 

[Lightning Performance]

My mouth is bloody from biting my tongue..

Take a fuel pressure test and look for two pounds minimum. Most tools will move the gauge cranking them. Having a 7psi gauge is priceless for these fuel issue.

 

[Chucksta]

Take a fuel pressure test and look for two pounds minimum. Most tools will move the gauge cranking them. Having a 7psi gauge is priceless for these fuel issue.

As it has a pulse type carb, wouldn't actually show suction on the fuel line? I can't see any way to see what the internal diafram ( sp) ? is doing.

As it starts and runs for over a minute, regardless of whether the fuel cell is above or below the unit, how would I test the output of the pulse pump in the carb?

 

[Lightning Performance]

As it has a pulse type carb, wouldn't actually show suction on the fuel line? I can't see any way to see what the internal diafram ( sp) ? is doing.

As it starts and runs for over a minute, regardless of whether the fuel cell is above or below the unit, how would I test the output of the pulse pump in the carb?

Most times a weak diaphragm won't bump the gauge around. A strong one usually does move or bounce the needle with the choke shut during cranking. Thought maybe you have a pin hole in your diaphragm or a tiny crack. Just a thought. Air leaks always make the fuel system slowly die off. Carb gaskets can be the other issue. Close the choke, set your throttle to wide open and see if it does bump a gauge hooked to it. The pulse comes from your venturi back trough the low speed jet system. The high system is isolated by the blowoff valve. This sounds ridiculous but once your spinning the power head over like with a drill it will give you a signal on the diaphragm through the low speed circuit. It won't show a leak around an internal port plug but that would be my next place to look for issues if it does have a strong signal and the carb bench tested good.

I'm assuming you have already tested the carb for vacuum leaks?
Carb pressure test wouldn't be a bad idea either.

If you already did that my bad for not reading the whole thread end to end.
GL with it

 

[Lightning Performance]

A weak diaphragm is one that has become hardened from time and drying out. Brake fluid should wake it up again.

 

[Chucksta]

What can you get in a can that sprays cold??

Spraying the coil when it starts to die, would eliminate the coil dying under load / heating up from thermal conduction as the root of the problem..

 

[Lightning Performance]

What can you get in a can that sprays cold??

Spraying the coil when it starts to die, would eliminate the coil dying under load / heating up from thermal conduction as the root of the problem..

Wart freeze or CO2. It also is sold for removing skin tags I do believe. Try water first. If it's cracked they are usually done for the day and won't fire without using a hair dryer. The sun can be used to dry the coil.

Failure temperatures usually exceed 200°F but not always. The internal capacitors fail also causing coil issues. If you have points replace the condeser.

Check the plug wire for holes and rubs on the high voltage jacket.

 

[Chucksta]

Wart freeze or CO2. It also is sold for removing skin tags I do believe. Try water first. If it's cracked they are usually done for the day and won't fire without using a hair dryer. The sun can be used to dry the coil.

Failure temperatures usually exceed 200°F but not always. The internal capacitors fail also causing coil issues. If you have points replace the condeser.

Check the plug wire for holes and rubs on the high voltage jacket.

The more you know.. the more you find out that you don't know Jack..

Wart Freeze?? !! ?? SMFH.. Brilliant.. portable, reliable, and probably cheap.. Beats dragging my 20 pounder of C02 from my MIG welder, and trying to figure out how to blast the coil..

If it has points... Efff me!! I never even checked out what may or may not be the right manual for the unit to even see if it had points and a condenser.. I haven't owned anything that ran on a points and condenser since my 68 Dodge Dart slant six.. Well , I once did fix an old generator for someone.. pulled the flywheel, found that the points were not opening.. cleaned them with an emery board, gapped them with a business card, and it purred like a kitten.. Lemme guess.. If it has points, they're right next to the coil.. under the flywheel..

I've really gotta get the serial number off this thing and find out what exactly which iteration it is.. The manual, which states it was written in 2015, shows a digital over speed switch, and the one I'm dealing with has a manual reset.. no electronics at all.. Hmmmm...

As Sherlock Holmes said " The plot thickens"..

So, I just took a deeper dive into the (maybe) correct manual. It mentions the digital DOS ( overspeed ) sensor, magneto CDI, and points.. and condenser.

( sigh).

This is getting worse by the day..

 

[Lightning Performance]

The more you know.. the more you find out that you don't know Jack..

Wart Freeze?? !! ?? SMFH.. Brilliant.. portable, reliable, and probably cheap.. Beats dragging my 20 pounder of C02 from my MIG welder, and trying to figure out how to blast the coil..

If it has points... Efff me!! I never even checked out what may or may not be the right manual for the unit to even see if it had points and a condenser.. I haven't owned anything that ran on a points and condenser since my 68 Dodge Dart slant six.. Well , I once did fix an old generator for someone.. pulled the flywheel, found that the points were not opening.. cleaned them with an emery board, gapped them with a business card, and it purred like a kitten.. Lemme guess.. If it has points, they're right next to the coil.. under the flywheel..

I've really gotta get the serial number off this thing and find out what exactly which iteration it is.. The manual, which states it was written in 2015, shows a digital over speed switch, and the one I'm dealing with has a manual reset.. no electronics at all.. Hmmmm...

As Sherlock Holmes said " The plot thickens"..

So, I just took a deeper dive into the (maybe) correct manual. It mentions the digital DOS ( overspeed ) sensor, magneto CDI, and points.. and condenser.

( sigh).

This is getting worse by the day..

The more you know the less you want to some days
Dig in and find out then run for the hills

I've had two bad new spark plugs in row fresh from the box. Great way to waste an afternoon

Point kill wires like to do some really strange stuff and kill switches.

 

[Chucksta]

The more you know the less you want to some days
Dig in and find out then run for the hills

I've had two bad new spark plugs in row fresh from the box. Great way to waste an afternoon

Point kill wires like to do some really strange stuff and kill switches.

Worst "spark plug debacle" I had was a LawnBoy that would just randomly stop running.. Took the plug out, and, as I was walking across the front lawn, heard a little "click".. Looked at the plug, and the insulator had slid up, and was covering the gap.. Turn the plug upright, and the insulator slid down and exposed the spark gap. Turn it upside down, and the insulator slid down and covered the gap.. I'd spent a lot of time trying to troubleshoot the intermittent failure.. Damn!! It cane down to a defective plug, with an intermittent failure.
New plug, and it ran flawlessly for years..

 

[Lightning Performance]

Worst "spark plug debacle" I had was a LawnBoy that would just randomly stop running.. Took the plug out, and, as I was walking across the front lawn, heard a little "click".. Looked at the plug, and the insulator had slid up, and was covering the gap.. Turn the plug upright, and the insulator slid down and exposed the spark gap. Turn it upside down, and the insulator slid down and covered the gap.. I'd spent a lot of time trying to troubleshoot the intermittent failure.. Damn!! It cane down to a defective plug, with an intermittent failure.
New plug, and it ran flawlessly for years..

Jimmy has one out of his 69' Chevelle. Cylinder died in the 307 he had in it. Plug wire was pulsing up and down. The whole plug moves but luckily never broke.
The click-a-plug