Want new woodstove for HEAT not looks

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The vents in the floor was my first idea. The house is a few years old with the floor insulated. Should I remove all the insulation or just around the vents? Also looking at the jotul 500 but the 118 looks good too. Probably can't go wrong with either.
 
Ranch house with a stove in the basement here.... All you need is a LARGE vent through the floor directly above the stove, and smaller vents in all of the rooms. Keep the door to the basement CLOSED, if it is open it will disturb the convection and not force air to circulate through the upstairs rooms. The large vents will allow the heat to escape to the upstairs... and the small vents in all the other rooms will act as a "cold air return". No fans...no ducts... and the whole house is at a live-able temp.

the problem with this is your homeowners insurance company isn't going to help you much if you ever have a structure fire (unless you get the type that snap shut during a fire)
 
the problem with this is your homeowners insurance company isn't going to help you much if you ever have a structure fire (unless you get the type that snap shut during a fire)

Do you have any proof that the insurance company would have a cow? If not Im calling B.S.
 
Royall in Wisconsin makes the best wood furnaces in the United States. Harman Stoves in Pennsylvania is probably equal. Dane Harman uses robotic welders.

I'm sure you can get into a Royall that will heat your house for $2,500.
 
DYI, Harman sold out a couple of years ago. One of problems with Harman Stoves is getting warranty service. If there is a problem and the local dealer that sold it doesn't want to be bothered, the warranty is totally worthless.

Ken
 
DYI, Harman sold out a couple of years ago. One of problems with Harman Stoves is getting warranty service. If there is a problem and the local dealer that sold it doesn't want to be bothered, the warranty is totally worthless.

Ken

I helped install a 90,000 Harman boiler six years ago. Besides that it had only a passive induction system and no fan it was the best, most well crafted appliance I've seen at around $4,000. I didn't know the company had changed hands or that there were quality issues. Most warranties are totally worthless.

I look at the way the Royalls are made and at the price for U.S. made steel, I think they are the best.
 
Royall in Wisconsin makes the best wood furnaces in the United States. Harman Stoves in Pennsylvania is probably equal. Dane Harman uses robotic welders.

I'm sure you can get into a Royall that will heat your house for $2,500.

They may be made nicely, but the best no way!! Until I see some independent test results showing efficiency and emissions numbers they can't match-up with the Kuuma VaporFire. I'm talking about the forced air furnace and not the outdoor boiler. By the way the VaporFire has an extra 200 + lbs of US made steel on top of any of the Royall models along with better efficiency and fewer emissions.
 
You have enough info yet??, I use a 1557m and I am happy with the results:D, 4th year with it, hooked ou into the ductwork w/return and supply plenums, all rooms heated evenly.
 
Do you have any proof that the insurance company would have a cow? If not Im calling B.S.

Policies vary

The company I have my Home Owner's policy with required a letter from the Town Fire Marshall stating he had inspected and approved the stove installation. He did look for smoke / CO detectors along with how things were set up. YMMV but it's worth a call to your insurance agent / company.

Take Care
 
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...and here I was walking away from this thread...
If there is 1 thing that I know to be true...saying you are the best as I have many times...leave a lot up to the interpretative....see I'm learning after all of the floggings.LOL

For those of us that have been in the industry and know the competition we can make valid zingers to shoot back and forth achieving very little in nothing at all.

I'd point out that we..Yukon furnaces are the only UL tested & listed furnaces on the market and we have been building them here in northern Mn. for almost 40 years. We have the longest warranty in the industry too. 30 years....forget what I'll say..read the testimonials.

Wood Furnaces by Yukon-Eagle
 
The vents in the floor was my first idea. The house is a few years old with the floor insulated. Should I remove all the insulation or just around the vents? Also looking at the jotul 500 but the 118 looks good too. Probably can't go wrong with either.
Not recommended. Floor insulation is needed to keep the AC efficient in summer. And it'll help keep your floors warm during winter, too.

As for homeowner's insurance, your insurance carrier should be notified whenever you install any heating appliance, even if it's just a baseboard heater.

The carrier may bump up your rates or they may not, depending on the type of appliance. We had a propane gas log unit installed when we bought this house. The insurance carrier was cool with it ~ no rate increase. But it was documented... that's the important part.

Where a lot of folks go wrong, they'll DIY without a municipal permit or inspection... or notifying their insurance carrier. If there's a fire or other damage as a result of the appliance, the insurance carrier could very well say you're SOL. :eek:
 
Do you have any proof that the insurance company would have a cow? If not Im calling B.S.

It depends on the municipal building codes. If you don't meet those, the Ins. Co. is not going to want to insure you. If you do go with floor vents, fire rated fusible dampers are the way to go (and some municipalities do not even like those). he problem with the open vents was that they potentially provided a path for rapid fire spread through what would otherwise be a barrier that would stop the flame spread for some minutes.
 
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