Welding worn sprockets

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camel2019

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A few of the vintage saws I have have worn spur sprockets some are worse then others.
Anyone ever weld up a grooved sprocket think the flux core wire I have(Lincoln 70 series something or other) would be hard enough.
 
I have not, I would see if there is a way to get into a rim drive first.

I believe a lot clutch drums are formed and then the center portion is silver soldered on in an oven to make the product. sure could shape the repaired welded part easier if it was not attached to the drum. I would think tig and hard facing rod. There is self shielding flux core wire or flux core as in dual shield with inert gas.
 
I have not, I would see if there is a way to get into a rim drive first.

I believe a lot clutch drums are formed and then the center portion is silver soldered on in an oven to make the product. sure could shape the repaired welded part easier if it was not attached to the drum. I would think tig and hard facing rod. There is self shielding flux core wire or flux core as in dual shield with inert gas.
For the saws I want to use more frequently I useally try to get a rim sprocket clutch for but it’s not always possible.
 
Perhaps grind the tips of the teeth down to fit a rim drive sprocket over them? If welding, I'd be careful to not overheat the assembly and melt the brazed sprocket off the drum!
 
I tried it once on a MS 170 spur sprocket, stick welded and reshaped with the Dremel.

Problem was the heat distorted the bore and the caged roller bearing did not fit in properly. I decided it wasn't worth the trouble of getting the hardened bore surface perfectly circular.

The process would work good enough for a display old saw.

Here's the previous thread on this with my photos -

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/spur-sprockets-worn-vs-worn-out.352294/#post-7523447
 
I tried it once on a MS 170 spur sprocket, stick welded and reshaped with the Dremel.

Problem was the heat distorted the bore and the caged roller bearing did not fit in properly. I decided it wasn't worth the trouble of getting the hardened bore surface perfectly circular.

The process would work good enough for a display old saw.
Maybe an arbor in the bore hole but stick welding produces a lot of heat compared to others.
 
One way to get this done is to remove sprocket either heat or drill grind. Using hard facing rod with high impact formula the worn areas filled in, Then spot weld back on almost as good as new. thanks.
 
One way to get this done is to remove sprocket either heat or drill grind. Using hard facing rod with high impact formula the worn areas filled in, Then spot weld back on almost as good as new. thanks.
Why hard face? 7018 and or this 70 series wire I have would be around 50 or so Rockwell when the weld is cool. Same with anvils a lot of guys want to use hard facing rod but it’s not required. I’d rather use the mig with flux core over stick welding Tig is not an option.
 
Don’t own a tig machine got mig and stick with mig I can control heat how I learned to weld in the first place was mig on 18ga body steel. Maybe an arbor made of out say copper will control heat and or distortion?. I was looking into having someone tig with stellite tig filler on a couple old bars I have laying around only after I did most of the build up with mig.
The mig is going to get a workout soon got to finish my homemade walk behind sickle mower and repair a cross cut saw I bought.
 
Don’t own a tig machine got mig and stick with mig I
I always ran mig and wire with gas on something like this, short-circuit transfer with 023/025 ER70S-3 wire. I had a body shop module on my SP200 mig. and you could set it up for short-circuit transfer timed induction and weld thin body panels with ease. When I used flux-cored wires used gas shielded flux-cored, slag was easy to remove.
 
I always ran mig and wire with gas on something like this, short-circuit transfer with 023/025 ER70S-3 wire. I had a body shop module on my SP200 mig. and you could set it up for short-circuit transfer timed induction and weld thin body panels with ease. When I used flux-cored wires used gas shielded flux-cored, slag was easy to remove.
I never ran short circuit also not an option on my mig. In the body shop we had an ancient welding machine that would do tacks only if you set it that way it also could use bronze wire. We always just tacked every 6 to 8 inches and moved along that panel and fill in the spots slowly.
 
Why hard face? 7018 and or this 70 series wire I have would be around 50 or so Rockwell when the weld is cool. Same with anvils a lot of guys want to use hard facing rod but it’s not required. I’d rather use the mig with flux core over stick welding Tig is not an option.
7018 is pretty mild but yes it will work. I do not have an idea how long or well it will last. The other thing that I have not tried this for some applications is to just fuse a new sprocket onto the drum. I had an older saw with a shot sprocket so just changed sprockets. Thanks
 
7018 is pretty mild but yes it will work. I do not have an idea how long or well it will last. The other thing that I have not tried this for some applications is to just fuse a new sprocket onto the drum. I had an older saw with a shot sprocket so just changed sprockets. Thanks
Could do that this idea would be a hold over until I can find a replacement.
 
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