Well.... Bought another saw off the bay..... Hows about a Homelite 1050 Super....

[lesorubcheek]

C-72 maybe (and probably) is the same part. The C-5/7/9 had Fairbanks Morse starter.... 51/71/91 used the overrunning bearing and the 52 used a slighlty different FM style. Only the 72 had conventional pawls like on a 1050. The later 1020s, 1130s and 2000s (not 2100 though) used the same style starter as the 1050 and pretty sure they're the same part. They ain't all that easy to find. Took me over 6 months to finally come up with one for a 1020 project. But, I ain't all that lucky either, so one never knows where they may pop up.

Dan

 

[thomas1]

Check with chainsawlady for parts, if you haven't already. She's good people.

 

[zogger]

What?

Congrats on the 1050 - I have a few of these and they are fun to run. Plenty of parts around as well.
With the damaged thread I would use a time sert. Helicoils work well but can 'pull' over time. If an insert is used properly it should never give any real trouble. This will keep the thread std which, unless it cannot be avoided should IMO be the goal everytime.
Too many times I have worked on machines where things have been replaced with whatever was handy at the time, and it can be very frustrating!

Good luck with it - I am sure she will be up and running in no time.

Regards,

Chris.

You don't like wood lag bolts used in stripped out machine screw threads? %^)

 

[Roanoker494]

Does anyone know whether a flywheel from a "C" will fit or not?
Igpoe

The only other saw with the same flywheel is the 1130G, though the starter pawls off many Homelite saws would work.

C-72 maybe (and probably) is the same part. The C-5/7/9 had Fairbanks Morse starter.... 51/71/91 used the overrunning bearing and the 52 used a slighlty different FM style. Only the 72 had conventional pawls like on a 1050. The later 1020s, 1130s and 2000s (not 2100 though) used the same style starter as the 1050 and pretty sure they're the same part. They ain't all that easy to find. Took me over 6 months to finally come up with one for a 1020 project. But, I ain't all that lucky either, so one never knows where they may pop up.

Dan

The C-72 has three starter pawls where the 1050 only has two.

Check with chainsawlady for parts, if you haven't already. She's good people.

She responded to my wanted ad on another site and has a brand new flywheel for $48. Not a bad price but I would like to get off cheaper, which I have now.

You don't like wood lag bolts used in stripped out machine screw threads? %^)

Coming from a automotive mechanic background I have seen about everything.

 

[Roanoker494]

The flywheel is fixed, had to end up making the shoulder bolts. I ended up installing helicoils in both holes because even the "good" side seemed to hold the bolt a little loose.

I have no clue what the little threaded sleeves are called but they sure did save me today, those are 1/4x20x1/2" bolts.

I cut part of the sleeve off and threaded it onto the bolt to create the shoulder, I used red loctite to hold the two parts together.

Here is the flywheel put together, I also used red loctite to hold the bolts into the helicoils.

I stopped by Lowes and picked up a nice D handle to help pull the 1050 over, compression test shows 180psi.

 

[lesorubcheek]

The only other saw with the same flywheel is the 1130G, though the starter pawls off many Homelite saws would work.


The C-72 has three starter pawls where the 1050 only has two.

Negatory... If your C-72 has the correct part installed, its the same as a 1050.

Dan

 

[Teddy.Scout]

Hey Johnnie,
Went to your buyer and grab some parts for my 900 series homeys.
He is a good ol boy!
He ended up coming back over for some chain and really got to shot the bull, good to see others so close really into saws!!

He also brought over a 72 cover and the parts are a 10-4!

 

[eyolf]

Flywheel doesn't look all that hard to fix if you want to put in a thread insert. Time serts are a great product, but hard to find: there are others that are similar. Jergens makes inserts that have what amounts to red locktite on them and seem to work well; they also use standard threads, so you just drill out about 2 sizes too big, tap to suit the inserts you use and you're dialed. If you have the right drill and tap, just buy the inserts; 1/4-5/16-3/8 are about $3 per. Helicoil kits and Timesert kits start at about $60 for the same size and you only get about 4 or 5 repairs.

I fixed 4 stripped 5/8" holes in a tractor third-member housing for about $70, including buying the S&D drill, the tap and the inserts. Still holding today. Helicoil kit would have been just as much or more, and not as trustworthy.

I got mine at a Fastenal store not too far away; I don't know what other sources are out there

 

[Roanoker494]

Negatory... If your C-72 has the correct part installed, its the same as a 1050.

Dan

I stand corrected. I had done a search on Ebay and the flywheel shown for a C-72 had three pawl holes, this is the first time I have actually looked at a IPL. Thank you for the info.

Hey Johnnie,
Went to your buyer and grab some parts for my 900 series homeys.
He is a good ol boy!
He ended up coming back over for some chain and really got to shot the bull, good to see others so close really into saws!!

He also brought over a 72 cover and the parts are a 10-4!

The feller has impressed me from the "get-go".He has responded to every question quickly and he shipped the saw ASAP, if anything I believe he "undersold" the true condition of this saw.

Flywheel doesn't look all that hard to fix if you want to put in a thread insert. Time serts are a great product, but hard to find: there are others that are similar. Jergens makes inserts that have what amounts to red locktite on them and seem to work well; they also use standard threads, so you just drill out about 2 sizes too big, tap to suit the inserts you use and you're dialed. If you have the right drill and tap, just buy the inserts; 1/4-5/16-3/8 are about $3 per. Helicoil kits and Timesert kits start at about $60 for the same size and you only get about 4 or 5 repairs.

I fixed 4 stripped 5/8" holes in a tractor third-member housing for about $70, including buying the S&D drill, the tap and the inserts. Still holding today. Helicoil kit would have been just as much or more, and not as trustworthy.

I got mine at a Fastenal store not too far away; I don't know what other sources are out there

I used helicoils that I picked up from Advance Auto parts. It was a kit just for 1/4x20 bolts that had 8-10 inserts, a tap and a installation tool. I provided my own drill bit and loctite.

 

[igpoe]

I have yet to see or hear of Johnnie failing to fix a saw, or even get seriously discouraged!.
He's approaching the top of my list as a young and enthusiastic collector. He's made a Mercury
DO-100 run. Not a job for a fella without the patience of Job!
My other favorite is Stinkbait, if only because he still makes his own stinkbait.
Igpoe

 

[Roanoker494]

Just playing the waiting game on my plug wire now, I found a place that has a heck of a deal on bulk wire and parts. I got a 20 foot roll of 5mm copper core wire for 9 bucks, 10 5mm plug boot kits for a dollar each, 25 foot roll of the yellow Stens fuel line for 12 bucks, several stens carb kits for 3-4 bucks each and 9 bucks UPS shipping. Looks like I will have some plug wire to spare if anyone needs some.

 

[jus2fat]

Whale of a deal Johnny...and very cool of you to offer to share
with others that might need those parts!! :msp_thumbup:

J2F

 

[Roanoker494]

Whale of a deal Johnny...and very cool of you to offer to share
with others that might need those parts!! :msp_thumbup:

J2F

I only need about a foot of the wire to fix this saw but I figured having some extra around would not hurt anything. I can buy just a 15 inch piece off Ebay for 4 bucks shipped or I could buy the whole 20 foot roll for 9 bucks and add all the extra stuff to help even out the shipping. My mother calls this buying a elephant for a nickel, meaning that it a good deal but what the he ** are you going to do with it all? Come on man.... Plug boot kits for a buck, plug wire for pennies a foot, fuel line for less than a buck a foot... Who can pass that deal up?

 

[Roanoker494]

Picked up the 1050 parts saw from the feller I bought the first saw from. He says the saw has compression so I may end up with a good spare P/C out of the deal. The flywheel is also good, just in case my repair job does not hold together.

 

[Eccentric]

Good score Johnnie. Looks like the saw was originally a Tillotson HL equipped 1050 (grommets for the carb needles are in the carb box), yet the prior owner replaced the whole HL-application manifold and carb with an NOS manifold/carb/'spitback shield' for a Walbro SDC equipped LATE 1050/1130G. Wonder why he did that? Looks like the parts saw you got also is missing the carb/intake manifold setup. If the saw had originally came with an SDC, the carb box wouldn't have the rubber grommets, but would have chromed steel plugs instead. Be glad you have a spare P/C. My XP1020 has a smoked P/C. That saw's near the back of the 'projects' line for that and other reasons. I see that your parts saw has the reed spacer still. Would you consider parting with the reed spacer and reeds?

 

[Roanoker494]

Good score Johnnie. Looks like the saw was originally a Tillotson HL equipped 1050 (grommets for the carb needles are in the carb box), yet the prior owner replaced the whole HL-application manifold and carb with an NOS manifold/carb/'spitback shield' for a Walbro SDC equipped LATE 1050/1130G. Wonder why he did that? Looks like the parts saw you got also is missing the carb/intake manifold setup. If the saw had originally came with an SDC, the carb box wouldn't have the rubber grommets, but would have chromed steel plugs instead. Be glad you have a spare P/C. My XP1020 has a smoked P/C. That saw's near the back of the 'projects' line for that and other reasons. I see that your parts saw has the reed spacer still. Would you consider parting with the reed spacer and reeds?

I did not ask any question about the carb but I suspect the saw was missing the carb when he got it or maybe it was "borrowed" for another application, all of the original HL parts were included with the exception of the carb itself. The chromed plugs you speak of were also included, the previous owner found a complete NOS carb "upgrade" kit. I am not against the idea of letting the reed parts go but I want to get this one going before I start letting go of parts.

Here is the paperwork that came with the carb kit, I also have the box but no picture of it or the rest of the parts.

 

[ol'homey]

Well the carb looks the HL Tilly and the 4 reed pyramid looks like the one in my C9. But does anyone know what parts 5 and 6 are in the elbow? I've never seen those before. Also anyone ever compared the 1050 to the older C9 or C91 performance wise?

 

[Roanoker494]

Well the carb looks the HL Tilly and the 4 reed pyramid looks like the one in my C9. But does anyone know what parts 5 and 6 are in the elbow? I've never seen those before. Also anyone ever compared the 1050 to the older C9 or C91 performance wise?

The 1130G IPL list #5 as "Screw-idle adjusting" and 6 as "Spring-adjusting screw", the IPL is below and you need pages 5&6.

EDIT:
I have never ran a C9/C91 but they are roughly 15cc smaller and used a smaller HL carb than the 1050. Going by that I would say the 1050 would easily overtake a C series. I also know that the two saws were quite similar in design, I have heard tell that the P/C can be interchanged.

 

[Eccentric]

Well the carb looks the HL Tilly and the 4 reed pyramid looks like the one in my C9. But does anyone know what parts 5 and 6 are in the elbow? I've never seen those before. Also anyone ever compared the 1050 to the older C9 or C91 performance wise?

The 1130G IPL list #5 as "Screw-idle adjusting" and 6 as "Spring-adjusting screw", the IPL is below and you need pages 5&6.

EDIT:
I have never ran a C9/C91 but they are roughly 15cc smaller and used a smaller HL carb than the 1050. Going by that I would say the 1050 would easily overtake a C series. I also know that the two saws were quite similar in design, I have heard tell that the P/C can be interchanged.

That idle adjusting setup in the later 1050/1130G manifolds is for fine tuning idle speed/quality. On the saws that have it, there's a nipple at the base of the cylinder. Adjusting the screw controls the flow of a bit of fuel/air mixture from the intake manifold down to that nipple through a length of hose.

The C9/91 doesn't quite have the balls of an XP1000-1150. Still a strong saw, but 15cc smaller as Johnnie stated. The cylinder and piston from one saw can be bolted to the other saw's crankcase.....................but it's not really an interchange. The stroke is longer on the 1000-1050 saws, so you'd have all sorts of problems related to port timing, compression ratio, and squish measurement. The real interchange is that you can use the crankcase from one saw on another..................as long as you keep the right crank paired with the P/C. I know Wildman1024 did just that..............and I think that's where the confusion has come from.

As an interesting side note..........The last few C91's were built with the 'flat reed' manifolds from the smaller C-Series saws (C-5 thru C-72). The C91 IPL's state that, with the exact serial number break noted. I've seen one of these late C91's, and know of an AS member who has another one. My theory is that Homelite used the 'flat' single-reed manifolds in place of the 'pyramid' multi-reed manifolds on these saws to "widen the gap" between the outgoing C91 (there was no C92) and the "new" XP1000. "XP" stands for "Xtra Power" by the way. I've seen some early XP1000 magazine ads, and they were touting the increased displacement and better flowing pyramid reed setup as selling points. It would have been hard to get people to spend the extra coin on the XP1000 when the C91 was so similar. I immagine they still had a bunch of C91 cranks to use up, otherwise they'd have just dropped the model as soon as the XP1000 was released. The C52 and C72 continued on for a while. The C72 was the last survivor of the C-series, and was sold into the early 1980's along with the 1130G and 1050 XP-series saws.

 

[XPLRN]

Amazing............

That idle adjusting setup in the later 1050/1130G manifolds is for fine tuning idle speed/quality. On the saws that have it, there's a nipple at the base of the cylinder. Adjusting the screw controls the flow of a bit of fuel/air mixture from the intake manifold down to that nipple through a length of hose.

The C9/91 doesn't quite have the balls of an XP1000-1150. Still a strong saw, but 15cc smaller as Johnnie stated. The cylinder and piston from one saw can be bolted to the other saw's crankcase.....................but it's not really an interchange. The stroke is longer on the 1000-1050 saws, so you'd have all sorts of problems related to port timing, compression ratio, and squish measurement. The real interchange is that you can use the crankcase from one saw on another..................as long as you keep the right crank paired with the P/C. I know Wildman1024 did just that..............and I think that's where the confusion has come from.

As an interesting side note..........The last few C91's were built with the 'flat reed' manifolds from the smaller C-Series saws (C-5 thru C-72). The C91 IPL's state that, with the exact serial number break noted. I've seen one of these late C91's, and know of an AS member who has another one. My theory is that Homelite used the 'flat' single-reed manifolds in place of the 'pyramid' multi-reed manifolds on these saws to "widen the gap" between the outgoing C91 (there was no C92) and the "new" XP1000. "XP" stands for "Xtra Power" by the way. I've seen some early XP1000 magazine ads, and they were touting the increased displacement and better flowing pyramid reed setup as selling points. It would have been hard to get people to spend the extra coin on the XP1000 when the C91 was so similar. I immagine they still had a bunch of C91 cranks to use up, otherwise they'd have just dropped the model as soon as the XP1000 was released. The C52 and C72 continued on for a while. The C72 was the last survivor of the C-series, and was sold into the early 1980's along with the 1130G and 1050 XP-series saws.

Excellent intel shared there...........amazing the resources found on AS!!!