What compression and vacuum tester to buy?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This is my new one i got last week, 2 in 1 Stihl vac/pressure pump, you just move the valve on the end back to do a pressure test and move it forward to do a vac test
244044d1341468299-img_2486-jpg

Do you have the Stihl p/n for it? Not sure if I want to pay the money for snap on. Although being able to pay it off a lil every week is a plus. :msp_thumbup:
 
My MV8500 arrived yesterday. I haven't used it on a saw yet, but I did play around with it a bit. It seems well made, and I like the vacuum/pressure option. I think it will be pretty handy for saws, and for working on vehicles. It is Maine, and brake lines have to get replaced periodically. :msp_mellow:
 
Another vote for the mightyvac 8500.. The trick to doing good vacuum tests is sealing off the intake, exhaust, and sparkplug (make sure plug is snug). Sounds simple but I have had to make aluminum plates with rubber on the inside to seal the ports. Each saw can be different so you have to make several sizes. Also have used rubber stoppers, if you are lucky and get a round port to seal, usually carb intake.

And yet another vote for the 8500. Although I have a good selection of rubber stoppers (thanks to the chem teacher at school) for sealing the intake boot, I find this tool to be easier to use and more reliable for getting a leak-free seal.
8" Flat Jaw Welding Pliers
 
And yet another vote for the 8500. Although I have a good selection of rubber stoppers (thanks to the chem teacher at school) for sealing the intake boot, I find this tool to be easier to use and more reliable for getting a leak-free seal.
8" Flat Jaw Welding Pliers

Do those damage the boot? What about the innertube trick?
 
Do those damage the boot? What about the innertube trick?

I've used those welding pliers dozens of times with no damage whatsoever. One could file the edge to round it of a bit if one were really concerned, but that boot material is tough stuff. In fact, if the pliers damaged it, I'd take that as a sign to replace the boot.

The innertube trick is great when you can bolt on a plate to hold the rubber over the hole - most exhaust ports will seal easily this way. I use the pliers when I've already removed the tank/handle and the intake boot is just hanging off the cylinder. If the tank is still on, I use a hunk of innertube, an appropriately sized small block of wood as a spacer, a metal plate to apply pressure to the wood block, and the carb nuts to tighten everything down. If that isn't clear, I'll try to snap a pic the next time I test that way.
 
I realize this is a old thread. I got a pressure and vac tester at flee market and it is make by LR and TECHSIS. I have never heard of them. It has a bunch of flange seals and other things that connect to intake ports with Stihl part numbers on them and the foam case says stihl on top of it. Wondering if this is as good of a tester as it looks like? I made sure it was calibrated with a mityvac one and it seems perfect.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top