what is the best method to determine side/front/back lean?

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I have also used a handy stick as a plumb bob if I didn't want to unlace a boot or something.

Or dangle your axe head by the handle...or spacemule by the ankles.
 
The lean of the tree may be in 2 different directions i.e. it may lean forward and to the right. A plumb bob can be a big help here but you have to look at the tree from at least 2 angles 90° apart. Also the lean or leans is only one factor in determining which way the tree will fall. Limb weight is another factor as is rot, defects, conks, soil conditions, wind, snow, species, and a dozen other factors.

Be careful to not over simplify your situation.
 
all i can say is that you will never,let me repeat that, you will never see me using a level or plumb bob to see where my tree is going to fall. its going to fall where i tell it to with my notch my cut my wedges. i dont ask the tree where it wants to go ,i put it where "i" want it to go.maybe cutting timber for a living makes this process seem a little too easy to me and i dont understand others not being able to, just do it.
 
all i can say is that you will never,let me repeat that, you will never see me using a level or plumb bob to see where my tree is going to fall. its going to fall where i tell it to with my notch my cut my wedges. i dont ask the tree where it wants to go ,i put it where "i" want it to go.maybe cutting timber for a living makes this process seem a little too easy to me and i dont understand others not being able to, just do it.

As above and if ya unsure about it, dont. When tree/site allows for some more control put a rope on it.
I seen many a wrong'un after the fact that could be saved with a 1/2inch bull line.
 
all i can say is that you will never,let me repeat that, you will never see me using a level or plumb bob to see where my tree is going to fall. its going to fall where i tell it to with my notch my cut my wedges. i dont ask the tree where it wants to go ,i put it where "i" want it to go.maybe cutting timber for a living makes this process seem a little too easy to me and i dont understand others not being able to, just do it.

I hope nobody listens to this fool. Plumbing a tree is standard procedure for every tall tree. Most of the time this is done just by looking at the tree but at times you can not get a clear view. I generally just use my axe handle but I have a nut on a string in the bottom of my saw box. A situation that can be very tricky is entering a stand of trees that has had a fire go through it or has had wind damage. (I'm talking firs, pines, etc.) Many trees are at odd angles and it is hard to tell what is truly plumb. You can not see very far into the stand and most tops are not visable. To fall the snags I have had to rely on my plumb bob to determine lean and make my cuts accordingly. Snags don't drive well and the lay can be pretty narrow so taking lean into account is very important.

Re setting a pull line in a tree that can be the only way sometimes. I generally have my spurs in the truck. Last July we had to set a bull rope 150' up a tree to get the propper angle needed and this tree was not huge. But it was heavy and had a significant lean. We spent alot more time and effort to set the rigging that to actually cut the tree down.
 
Unfortunately lean is only one factor of many. As mentioned above limb weight is another and tree size - once trees reach a certain weight even wedging becomes difficult. Once trees reach a certain size and/or weight DO NOT try to fight excessive lean without having either the experience or the right gear - it will come back and bite you.
I'm lucky as I've had the opportunity to fell a lot of trees where if something goes wrong nobody dies and property doesn't get damaged. It also taught me to not get cocky and think I am a tree felling guru. In domestic situations I am very very careful yet have still had the odd mishap from thinking I can do the impossible. Unfortunately at the time I thought it "was" possible :)
Experience is the only "near" guarantee.
Anybody that says they can put any tree where they want with wedges alone are tugging themselves - and there are many that do.
I've had trees that were cut perfect, getting wedged, and going where I wanted get completely misplaced by sudden strong, unexpected wind gusts. All fine in the open but in a domestic situation without a pull line etc you'd be in some serious trouble!
If I said I'd dropped around 10,000 trees and misplaced about 20-30 of them that looks like a good percentage. However those 20-30 in a domestic situation would have cost me millions of dollars in property damage.
Sorry if I got off track a bit ;)
 
Journeyman Electrician by trade, firewood dude by hobby. I have never cut a tree for someone professionally, nor will I ever. I dont have the experience. So take this with a grain of salt.


I cut in the woods with no chance of damaging anything but myself and my equipment. When I read a tree, I look for trunk lean, as well as the canopy. What side of the canopy has the most weight, and how it will "offset" the lean. I then place my notch accordingly. The only time I use wedges is when I am bucking the tree up, as our white oak trees grow to be pretty big.
 
I generally just use my axe handle but I have a nut on a string in the bottom of my saw box. A situation that can be very tricky is entering a stand of trees that has had a fire go through it or has had wind damage. (I'm talking firs, pines, etc.) Many trees are at odd angles and it is hard to tell what is truly plumb. You can not see very far into the stand and most tops are not visable. To fall the snags I have had to rely on my plumb bob to determine lean and make my cuts accordingly. Snags don't drive well and the lay can be pretty narrow so taking lean into account is very important.

Good advice. If you don't want to invest in a fancy plumb bob just get the biggest lug nut you can find (eighteen wheeler size) and a piece of sting. Works for me.
 
all i can say is that you will never,let me repeat that, you will never see me using a level or plumb bob to see where my tree is going to fall. its going to fall where i tell it to with my notch my cut my wedges. i dont ask the tree where it wants to go ,i put it where "i" want it to go.maybe cutting timber for a living makes this process seem a little too easy to me and i dont understand others not being able to, just do it.

Come on over here old boy and I'll show you several trees that you ain't gonna make go anywhere except the way they are leaning, unless you bring a track loader and a lot of chain. If you are really good you might influence them 15 degrees one way or the other.
 
Come on over here old boy and I'll show you several trees that you ain't gonna make go anywhere except the way they are leaning, unless you bring a track loader and a lot of chain. If you are really good you might influence them 15 degrees one way or the other.


I have 100 ft of 3/8 logging chain, a racheting 6 ton chain come along, and if I can find a stump/tree for an anchor, you CAN make things go the wrong(right) way. But you still need to be careful
 

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