What kind of telespcopic pole pruner do you recomend?

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ForTheArborist

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I bought the Fruskar pole pruner, and it was so, so while it lasted. I liked how the draw string for the lopper was fixed into the pole. The blade became kind of flimsy and useless before too long. Eventually the aluminum section of the pole was jammed into something some howt, and it was waste soon after. Those things now sell for $90. I bought mine for about $50.

A pole pruner blade shouldn't be flimsy. It oughta be rigid under the load. I'm looking in Home Depot and Dixie Line, and I'm just seeing the same flimsy blades for sale. I'm going to Ace and Lowes this morning, but do they sell the good kind?

I expect that there is an industrial grade pole pruner for self-respecting tree workers out there. Is there any info you'd like to offer about that?
 
many good pruners around but not at home depot.

my fisakrs is holding up fine but i do not use it on big wood.

attached review may help
 
ForTheAction said:
That Silky Hayauchi looks like a good cutter. I like those scoring hooks on each end of the blade. I wonder how rigid the blades are.
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Rigid enough to not crack or break but flexible enough to bend over 45 degrees if a branch hangs up on it without breaking it.

Honestly, one of the best tools you will ever buy for the money. I love the 21' Silky Hayauchi saw.

I think I'll buy a 12' longboy next spring for use in the aerial lift.
 
I have a friend who swears by the Silky, and I have on my list to try one sometime. But have always used the Jamison - have seveal attachments for the ends - and it is same size as my Big Shot poles.
 
TreeClimber57 said:
I have a friend who swears by the Silky, and I have on my list to try one sometime. But have always used the Jamison - have seveal attachments for the ends - and it is same size as my Big Shot poles.
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Jamisons are nice for 1 or 2 sections but way too much wobble when you get more than a couple connected IMO. the Silky definitely has some flex to it when extended out all the way but no slop in the connections like the jameson poles I have. I only use the jamesons to pull down widowmakers and hangers. for pruning, I use the silky.
 
I had both the Fiskars and Corona telescoping pole saws when I started. I hated using them. they either got stuck in the cut or the pole wouldnt stay together. It kept getting longer on every pull. I got the jameson poles and the big Fano cutting head. It was like changing from a dull meat cleaver to a light saber. I have been considering the Silky pole saws. Their hand saws are top notch and the japanese always seem to make things like that better. Might be nice for the bucket.
 
TreeCo said:
I had the ARS telescoping pole saw and it lasted for almost two months!
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Did you ever contact them about the broken [part?
The telescoping poles saws are just not tough enough to hold up to tree work....IMO.........and too expensive for what the buyer gets for their money.
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total BS based on ig--lack of knowledge.

Try them, you will like them. :clap:
 
I have a Silky Hayate and wouldn't want to be without it. You do have to be careful about crushing the poles as if you dent one you can't use any of them. I did that once, and cut all of the sections it short. So now I have one that extends to about 12' and I bought a new one.

It definately pays its way. Don't use it a ton, but it is well worth it IN THE RIGHT CIRCUMSTANCES. I had a Corona before I started doing professional tree work. I think I brought it on the job one time... Not a professional tool.

As for saw rigidity of the Hayate: It is a a pull saw (just like their hand saws). If you try to cut on the push stroke it will flex (just like their hand saws). I'd say the Hayate blade is really close to being the same gauge as the Sugoi (sp?) hand saw - just a longer blade so it has a tiny bit more flex to it. Watch for sales I paid less thatn $200 each time I bought one.
 
Hayauchi

is great, much better than other polesaws that I've been using before. I have to add however that I work currently full time on the golfcourse, place with NO overhead powerlines...If I had to use Hayauchi somwhere near the powerline, well, I would still try to install just the head to a fiberglass pole. Blade itself is absolutely amazing.
 
TreeCo said:
Y .the ARS is wasted and the Jameson's are still working!

I still may buy a Silky telescoping saw but have been holding off as the Jameson does what I need to do plus......I get 20ft. plus my height reach with my Jameson set up using the eight and two sixes.
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Brother Dan,

Can you use that 20' jameson rig from the top of one tree to make a cut 20' to your side? I pruned 3 trees from one spot last monday; a 50'+ stretch, by reaching with the hayauchi. crude cuts but on small wood 4-6". the blade is worth what it costs; amazing tough.

never tood the hayate into a tree--way too heavy to reach sideways.
 
Laser Cuts with new pole saw

Here's an amazing new tool; cauterizes as it cuts.
 
There is one good thing about the jamison poles is that you can replace every part of them. If you drop a big a limb on them. you can just cut them shorter and put a new ferrel on the end and you are back in business. The wobble sucks and there is no other way to put than that. That part sucks but if you stay with two section or less you will be fine. I guess this is just my opinion.
 
pole saws

just in case u arent fully aware aluminum poles can and will kill you dead around power lines i know you are aware of that right but what about when you swing it around and you dont see the wire huh get jameson poles they are insulated dont learn the hard way some really good advice i hope everyone takes. lone wolf
 
Another fan of the Hayauchi here. I have bought three of them in three years but that was due to rough treatment doing storm work. You need to take care of them and use them in the right circumstance but they rock when needed. The will not retract if you dent the pole, as has been mentioned, you just need to be easy on them, I've got an old one that I use for parts on my newer one. Have already cannibalized the old one for the blade and a section of pole.
 
lone wolf said:
just in case u arent fully aware aluminum poles can and will kill you dead around power lines i know you are aware of that right but what about when you swing it around and you dont see the wire huh get jameson poles they are insulated dont learn the hard way some really good advice i hope everyone takes. lone wolf
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Actually, better advice is to always know where you are positioned in relation to the wires. Just because the jameson's are insulated doesn't mean they will always protect you. I've gotten shocked off a wet set. Plus old poles and dirty poles will also lessen the dielectric properties. Not to mention power can travel down the rope of a pole clip head.
 
Do not get an Echo-POS
The Stilhs are not much better, but if you need to use one, that is the tool for you/us.
All of the ones I have used are under powered and make poor cuts.
Maybe;) a ladder would be a better investment.
 
beowulf343 said:
Actually, better advice is to always know where you are positioned in relation to the wires. Just because the jameson's are insulated doesn't mean they will always protect you. I've gotten shocked off a wet set. Plus old poles and dirty poles will also lessen the dielectric properties. Not to mention power can travel down the rope of a pole clip head.
Click to expand...
The only ones that are di-electrically tested are the core-filled Jamisons - right? And they need to be well-maintained to stay that way (and I'm no line expert but periodically tested too, no?).

If it is not di-electrically tested, you need to treat a fiberglass pole just like you would an aluminum pole when you are around lines.
 

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