What makes a "Fast Cycle" splitter?

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I think 6ways are over rated most of the time. This coming from someone that added a 6way to current machine and is building a 12way for the next machine. My current splitter only has the one blade so its not like I can just swap out the 6way wedge for something else. Not to mention that 24intall wedge, which is really about 30in long total, is darn right heavy. For the right size wood, you cant beat a multiple split wedge, but not every round is the same size. I endup with a pile of pieces and splinters. I have considered reconfigureing the 6way and have even considered just cutting it off and going back to just a 4way. I split enough big wood that I hate to lose the 6way so I just leave it as is. I probably should just make another 4way wedge so I can swap them out, but I dont sell firewood and the machine gets the job done, but if I run across the right piece of metal, you never know. I do have plans to modify the current splitter once the processor is completed.

My current splitter is a combination of junk yard parts, with a few changes made over the years. I started with a 4in cyl and a 14gpm vane pump with a used, but almost new 25hp holer engine. I had a regular wood splitter valve sitting on the shelf I had bought probably 20 years ago and had never used. To make the wedge adjustable I needed another valve, I salvaged a husco multi spool valve off a old ditchwith. This valve had PB so I could plumb to that valve first for the wedge and then on to the splitter valve. With the extra spools I decided i wanted a knuckle boom to handle the large round, so I salvaged the cyl's off a old McCormick long arm mower. I mounted the knuckle boom on the tongue end of the splitter. I used a 4x4 front hub to mount the boom with. It worked pretty good for handleing firewood rounds, but of coures I got greedy and was trying to handle full size logs. Broke knuckle boom off at the hub and said to heck with it. I then had a buddy give me an old mechanic crane. It was a small one, but it had a electric winch on it so I mounted it on the machine. I had to remake part of it, but it has been working pretty good every since, and it sure beats the heck out of hand lifting some of the big stuff. I ran across a deal on a new 5in cyl so swapped it in place of the 4in one. Major slow down in cycle times. To increase speed, I splurged on a new 28gpm 2stage pump. With the added power of the 5in cyl, I decided I wanted the 6way wedge. While my splitter is plenty fast and strong enough, it is a mixture of hodgepodge parts with no real thought into the actual design.Just a bunch of addons.along the way. My hyd tank is way to small for the pump, but okay because I get to take breaks to let the oil, as well as myself, cool down. My splitter needs a complete redesign and rebuild. Nothing really bad wrong with what I have, but it needs some fine tuning to improve its life span.
 
Something about 5 sec or quicker I'd call fast.
Is that the cycle time on your processor, or do you have a regular splitter with 5sec cycle times.

At work, we have some 4in cyl with 8ft strokes that can cycle 13times a minute. We also have some 6in x 24in stroke cyl that cycle so fast you cant put a watch on them. I wouldnt want either cyl on a hand fed wood splitter.
 
For fluid temperature control why not use an oil cooler or a transmission cooler made for automotive use. The low pressure on the return to the tank should not be enough to harm one of those.
 
For fluid temperature control why not use an oil cooler or a transmission cooler made for automotive use. The low pressure on the return to the tank should not be enough to harm one of those.
My cooler is made by AKG, and was specific for my application. It had a spot for the temperature controller and has a built in 25 psi bypass. I didn't want to cobble something to make it work when I can just get the right part and just have it work. I don't like getting parts and then figuring out how to make it work. That's just me. When you're buying new, it probably wasn't much of a cost difference.

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For fluid temperature control why not use an oil cooler or a transmission cooler made for automotive use. The low pressure on the return to the tank should not be enough to harm one of those.

Too much flow, trans might be 5-8gpm.
 
For fluid temperature control why not use an oil cooler or a transmission cooler made for automotive use. The low pressure on the return to the tank should not be enough to harm one of those.
Every transmission oil cooler I have ever seen had a small dia tube for connections. Might find one off a big truck that would work, but why bother. A proper oil cooler needs to be rated for about 250psi and have flow capacity large enough to handle the system flows. A transmission cooler probably wont have the flow capacity needed and because of the restriction placed on oil flow, would probably cause more heat than it gives off. It goes back to velocity and pressure. If the oil moves thru the cooler so fast it cant give off it heat, the cooler is just something else that can go wrong. If your going to go with a oil cooler instead of a properly sized hyd tank, better to figure on buying a cooler that will at least do what its supposed to do. I know of systems that use a seperate pump to pull oil from the tank just to run thru a cooler, that pump is usually low pressure and low volume which gives the smaller cooler time to exchange heat.
 
This baby moves.
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others here have the numbers. This is not mine, its sweet tho.
 
Every transmission oil cooler I have ever seen had a small dia tube for connections. Might find one off a big truck that would work, but why bother. A proper oil cooler needs to be rated for about 250psi and have flow capacity large enough to handle the system flows. A transmission cooler probably wont have the flow capacity needed and because of the restriction placed on oil flow, would probably cause more heat than it gives off. It goes back to velocity and pressure. If the oil moves thru the cooler so fast it cant give off it heat, the cooler is just something else that can go wrong. If your going to go with a oil cooler instead of a properly sized hyd tank, better to figure on buying a cooler that will at least do what its supposed to do. I know of systems that use a seperate pump to pull oil from the tank just to run thru a cooler, that pump is usually low pressure and low volume which gives the smaller cooler time to exchange heat.
All coolers will restrict flow. That's how they work. If you don't slow down the fluid it won't have time to pull the heat out of it. I was in contact with an engineer from AKG and told them the flows that I was expecting so he could plug all that info in and give me the proper cooler for my application. Your return side should be low pressure, lower than 25 psi.......maybe a little more on cold start up, but normal operating temps you shouldn't have that much pressure on the return side. On my configuration, I have the dump valve bypass the cooler and dump right back to the tank. The oil that is returned through the valves goes through the cooler, so if it's just sitting there and you're not moving anything, all the oil goes through the cooler. My cooler isn't that big. The fan moves quite a bit of air, and can pull up to 17A so have to have a hefty recharge on the engine. I can't remember the exact numbers but talking with the engineer, that cooler was rated to drop the temp so many degrees if ambient temp was 100 out. I was impressed with it when I ran it in July, as it cycled a lot, but it did just that, cycled. So it dropped the temp of the oil low enough to shut off. I think there's an 8 degree hysteresis and initially it was set at 135, so it would shut off around 127. I thought about a separate pump to just cycle through the tank but that's a lot of extra plumbing, when you can just get the right parts that will handle the pressures and flow in the system.
 
The cost of an oil cooler should be weighed against the fact that a function of hyd tank size and shape is to give air a chance to rise out of the fluid so it doesn't cause pump destroying cavitation.
 
function of hyd tank size and shape is to give air a chance to rise out of the fluid so it doesn't cause pump destroying cavitation.
a proper system shouldn't be aerating the oil...and only have a chance of sucking air through suction hose connections (****** cheap clamps)
 
a proper system shouldn't be aerating the oil...and only have a chance of sucking air through suction hose connections (****** cheap clamps)

Air works it's way in at other places including inside the tank turbulence.

A guideline I've read for stationary equipment is to have three times the tank volume as the pump value. That's not real practical for mobile equipment. Mine is 40 gallon with a 28gpm pump. Pump usually runs at 20gpm or below in use.
 
The cost of an oil cooler should be weighed against the fact that a function of hyd tank size and shape is to give air a chance to rise out of the fluid so it doesn't cause pump destroying cavitation.

It all depends on your setup. For most people, probably wouldn't need one. With the right tank setup, if you are running when it's colder weather, you wouldn't need one either. I discussed this a lot with my builder of my splitter and reason I still went with it was that I do split when it's 80 degrees out. I don't want my tank so hot you can't touch it. I want some heat in my system, but I'd rather be on the cool side to be easy on parts, seals, pump, etc. I've seen some coolers for under $400. When you spend big money for a commercial splitter, I say it should have a cooler on it. Most commercial splitters are $8k+ the cost of a cooler is peanuts.

Air works it's way in at other places including inside the tank turbulence.

A guideline I've read for stationary equipment is to have three times the tank volume as the pump value. That's not real practical for mobile equipment. Mine is 40 gallon with a 28gpm pump. Pump usually runs at 20gpm or below in use.

I've always been told on a log splitter, you want your tank resevoir to hold at least the same gallons as your pump (22 gpm pump, 22 gallons of oil in the system.)
 
It all depends on your setup. For most people, probably wouldn't need one. With the right tank setup, if you are running when it's colder weather, you wouldn't need one either. I discussed this a lot with my builder of my splitter and reason I still went with it was that I do split when it's 80 degrees out. I don't want my tank so hot you can't touch it. I want some heat in my system, but I'd rather be on the cool side to be easy on parts, seals, pump, etc. I've seen some coolers for under $400. When you spend big money for a commercial splitter, I say it should have a cooler on it. Most commercial splitters are $8k+ the cost of a cooler is peanuts.
I have a 28 gpm pump on mine and a 30 gallon tank filled with 28 gallons of oil to leave a couple inches of head space...I run all 3/4" hoses except for the main pressure line from the pump to the first valve which is 1" and all 90's are sweeps, not hard 90's... hottest day I have split was around 95, and oil only got up to 120 or so after splitting for 5 hours... a proper system shouldn't aerate or over heat the oil...
 
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