What makes a "Fast Cycle" splitter?

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Heres the cooler I plan on using on my processor, it measures 19.6x16x2.5 inches. It has 1inch ports and I believe its rated for 80gpm flows. It already has the shroud for a hydraulic motor and fan, but I plan on using a automotive fan with a temp sensor to operate the fan.
 

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Well my processer has about a 20 or 25 gal tank and the pumps put out almost 50 gals. Before I got a cooler put on it would get pretty hot, like burn your hand on the coneyor motor hot.

Blockbuster tried to tell me that was fine, but my Dad who has been in the hydraulic industry for several decades said no way! 160ish is about as hot as is ok.
With the cooler it gets to maybe 150* in the middle of summer. It's mounted in front of the radiator and is about 18"x18" or so.

I do need to put a couple solenoids and a temp switch for an auto bypass based on temp because it doesn't help any when I'm trying to get the oil warmed up in the winter.
 
a proper system shouldn't be aerating the oil...and only have a chance of sucking air through suction hose connections (****** cheap clamps)
Hate to disagree with you, but all oil contains a certain amount of dissolved air. This air can be released thru sudden pressure drops at valves, after any orfice or bottle neck restriction and even returning to tank. Noted, a property designed tank with baffles should give the air time to settle out of the oil before being reintroduced into the suction of the pump, but you dont have to have loose suction hoses to get air bubbles in your oil. Air in the oil is pretty common of small tanks, more so than on tanks with adequate storage capacities.
 
Hate to disagree with you, but all oil contains a certain amount of dissolved air. This air can be released thru sudden pressure drops at valves, after any orfice or bottle neck restriction and even returning to tank. Noted, a property designed tank with baffles should give the air time to settle out of the oil before being reintroduced into the suction of the pump, but you dont have to have loose suction hoses to get air bubbles in your oil. Air in the oil is pretty common of small tanks, more so than on tanks with adequate storage capacities.
that's nowhere near the amount of air, as what would be introduced into the system from a leaky suction hose or a high turbulence in the tank, or a tank so small the suction creates a vortex sucking air directly into the pump...that's what I'm talking about!
the little amount of air you are talking about is going to be there weather it has a cooler on it or not...
 
the little amount of air you are talking about is going to be there weather it has a cooler on it or not...

Yes but my point was a larger tank provides extra cooling and less entrapped air both.

A larger well designed tank gives minute air bubbles more time to rise to the surface.

Coolers work well and are needed in a lot of applications. My Bobcat 7753 for instance has a large oil cooling system.

Hydraulics 101.
 
I agreed with both of you, and made note of it. Just pointed out that suction leaks are not the only place you can get air in your oil.

Noted, a property designed tank with baffles should give the air time to settle out of the oil before being reintroduced into the suction of the pump. Air in the oil is pretty common of small tanks, more so than on tanks with adequate storage capacities.
 
I have a 15 gal pump on my 36" splitter with homemade 30 US gal oil tank on it, only have 15 gallons of oil in it right now. I was splitting 20x 32" long" ash last week with it, temp was about 21 F out with strong winds. Hydraulic oil is AW32. I have rounds set up pretty good so cylinder was moving pretty often and steady. After 2 hours of splitting the oil tank was barely warm to the touch. I was concerned that it wouldn't be heating the oil up enough so I only put 15 gallons in the tank thinking it would recirculate faster and get hotter. At startup the cylinder moves very very slow and took at least 10 minutes to get regular. I usually don't split a lot when it's cold out but 21F sure isn't that cold. I'm thinking of putting rigid foam insulation around the oil tank because it would be fairly easy. I have a engine preheater and might throw it on just to get the oil warmed up quicker. Pump squeals more than I would like. When I was making the tank I considered making it a 2 section but changed my mind. That's the trouble when building your own stuff, too many changes during the process. Using my old Speeco by myself I could get the cylinder so hot you couldn't even hold your hand on it.
 
I havent decided just how I want to make my hyd tank yet. figured i would get around to it after everything else is put together so I can get the ports in the right place for easy hookups. I will be using one of those sq diesel fuel tanks you see in the back of pickup trucks. Not the L shaped ones. It is supposed to hold 100gal, I plan on cutting the top off and using that metal to make the baffles. I will replace the top with something a little thicker, a bolt on top so I can get inside if I have to. Not sure of the guage metal used to build the diesel tank, doesnt seem very thick, but once the baffles are welded inside it should stiffen up.
 
I built my own using 1/8" steel. I was gonna buy one but wanted it to fit the space on my trailer so I just built it. I wish I had put a few more bungs in it but I will just empty it and weld a few more in. There are lots of hydraulic tanks available for cheap prices at wrecking yards. Lots of municipal equipment use big hydraulic tanks and have coolers, hoses and valves on them already. I just couldn't find one quick enough when I was building.
 
I have a 15 gal pump on my 36" splitter with homemade 30 US gal oil tank on it, only have 15 gallons of oil in it right now. I was splitting 20x 32" long" ash last week with it, temp was about 21 F out with strong winds. Hydraulic oil is AW32. I have rounds set up pretty good so cylinder was moving pretty often and steady. After 2 hours of splitting the oil tank was barely warm to the touch. I was concerned that it wouldn't be heating the oil up enough so I only put 15 gallons in the tank thinking it would recirculate faster and get hotter. At startup the cylinder moves very very slow and took at least 10 minutes to get regular. I usually don't split a lot when it's cold out but 21F sure isn't that cold. I'm thinking of putting rigid foam insulation around the oil tank because it would be fairly easy. I have a engine preheater and might throw it on just to get the oil warmed up quicker. Pump squeals more than I would like. When I was making the tank I considered making it a 2 section but changed my mind. That's the trouble when building your own stuff, too many changes during the process. Using my old Speeco by myself I could get the cylinder so hot you couldn't even hold your hand on it.

A tank heater will help. I was a 1000w pad on the bottom of mine.
 
I didn't want to spend big money on a pump, which would probably force me to replumb, so I cheated.

I made a new ram for my 4" bore. Used the same piston, just made a new end cap from some heavy plate, cut a groove for an oring, a really tight one, then a 2nd groove for another looser one for a wiper.

4" bore with a 3.75" ram.

She sucks back like a rocket!

If the oil is thin enough the pump stays in the high gpm stage and that Little Briggs goes putt putt putt and all 36" returned in about 2 seconds.

Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
 
I didn't want to spend big money on a pump, which would probably force me to replumb, so I cheated.

I made a new ram for my 4" bore. Used the same piston, just made a new end cap from some heavy plate, cut a groove for an oring, a really tight one, then a 2nd groove for another looser one for a wiper.

4" bore with a 3.75" ram.

She sucks back like a rocket!

If the oil is thin enough the pump stays in the high gpm stage and that Little Briggs goes putt putt putt and all 36" returned in about 2 seconds.

Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
*cough* pics
 
If I get out to my parents next holiday I'll take a picture.

It's ridiculous. 16gpm it's got a total ~9sec cycle time, impressive for a 36" stroke. It's so fast I don't see using a valve with auto return. Almost pointless expense with this setup.

For setups that strictly push, it's the answer.

Maybe I should make more and sell them for log splitters? The most time consuming is Making the end cap. I did it on a worn out lathe too. For the threaded stubb on the end of the ram for the piston, I just welded some smaller than round stock, turned so it's true on center, then cut some threads. Enough to hold the piston on. Good enough for pushing.

I should of gotten fancy and lathed so I could use a spring loaded wiper, but I don't care. Just a tie rod cylinder, easy to take apart and put orings in once every few years.

The ram I was lucky on the size, and took a fuzz off for polishing.

Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
 
That was the only downside. I upped to 1". It's still restrictive. But what little heat it makes for such short time, it's manageable.

Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
 
Iron and oak is advertising different numbers for the fast cycle 20ton than you are writing. According to there ad's the fast 20 has a 4.5x2x24 cylinder and not the 4x1.75x24in cyl you suggested. To get 20tons they probably have the pressure set at around 2500psi. Also the 8sec cycltime advertised should be about 11.2sec, give or take a few billion years. Anyways, if you copy their design and use the 4in cyl with smaller rod dia, you would have the approx 8 sec cycle time (closer to 9 sec) you are trying to match. Going to a cyl with a 2in rod will only speed up the cycle time by .2 sec, not worth the effort or extra cost of the bigger rod. To keep heat down to a minimum without a lot of extra expense, I would look for the cyl with the 3/4 ports as well as try to find a splitter control valve rated for 25gpm. the bigger ports in the cyl and valve will reduce the velocity of the oil flowing back to the tank on return stroke, which in turn will reduce heat. I would also try to build or find a hydraulic tank in the 15gpm range. Set hyd pressure to around 3000psi which would give you about 19tons of splitting force. You will need a 8hp min engine to pull the pump. To increase splitting speed, I suggest using a 4way wedge, you can make it removable or height adjustable for those few times you run into a round you cant split. I can say for certain the 4in cyl with a 4 way wedge is going to hard to stall. If you need cycle time faster than 8 sec, you can always go with the 22gpm twostage pump and a little bigger engine, but if you can keep a 8sec cycle time fed wood, your a better man than most of us.

Excactly What MudStopper said but Try to keep your line runs as short as reasonably possible to minimize heat ..
Keep SAFETEY First
Look and analyze the splitter head or knife for angles and how it works for your kind of wood How well it reacts to your kind of wood and other personal criteria.
Speed will be proportionate to efficiently feeding and clearing your splitter.
When I was sawyer at my mill and had a new offbearer/edgermen (years ago) I would tell the new guy to watch My Dad for a while (Unbeknownst to Dad) He was a BIG guy and the point was he did not waste any unnecessary efforts one step not two, Fluid movements etc. Again MUDSTOPPER said the most the best..
 

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