What saw Husky 455 Rancher or Husky 359?

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357 will like cutting 20 inch trees even less than a non epa 359. 357 has slightly less displacement and narrower higher RPM powerband.

Ported 359 is hard to beat @ 60cc and very good price wise if you want to get into moddified saws.

Only strike I would put against 357 or 359 compared to 361 is the outboard clutch, it can be a PITA to change chains esp with 8 pin 3/8 gear and 16 inch bar.
I must have a good dealer then as he told me the same thing regarding the 2159/2156 said for general firewood I wood like the power band more on the 2159 as I was used to a 3.7 Mac. I was also able to run both saw's and could not tell any diff in the wood.(just counting in my head) Also ordered the non cat muffler for just under 40.00 cdn from them.
Now of course it is ported so it is really a awesome saw!
About the clutch I find it clears noodles fine and who really changes rims in the field?The saw mostly wears a 15'' 8pin combo or 7 pin 18''.
 
357 and 359 xp or not share almost all parts except

Piston
Cylinder
Muffler
Crank stuffers on 357
Muffler Cat on 359 non EPA 357
Green fuel cap on 359 blue or black on 357
Stickers

359 has a couple extra cc's but the stock porting is not as clean as 357.

I hate to show my ignorance here, but what are crank stuffers and what is their significance to engine-quality build? Also, what does "stock porting is not as clean" signify in terms of engine-quality build?
 
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Stuffers are just that, sort of turns a conventional bell crank into a full circle crank and takes up some of the crank case volume. In concert with the porting of the 357 jug it gives it the tigher higher powerband. So in a way a 357 is an adaption off the 359.

Transfer ports on 359 are unique, they are closed transfers but have removable covers on the sides. This design must make for a lower cost casting process otherwise I don't know why they would do it. The 357 has more conventional closed transfers. On an up side the removable transfer covers make the 359 one of the easiest saws to port and gives it very impressive gains with only modest porting work.
 
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Danrclem,

The 455 is off out of the running! So, I'm stuck with choosing the MS 361, 359, or 359xp. First, is it worth going the extra $132.00 for the 357xp for quality parts and build over the 359? There seems to be the position that the 359 allows more flexibility if you want to mod the saw. However, I don't think I would ever want to do that.

I was leaning to the 357xp, because I thought that better quality parts and build would be worth the additional expense, since I want this to be my last saw. I read about the advantages of the MS 361 inboard clutch when it comes to fries clogging the saw, but I don't know whether that would be an issue with my usage of the saw.

I don't want to spend the additional on the 357xp if it's not really necessary and the 359 would be virtually as good, but I don't want to skimp when it comes to laying out such large bucks if the higher quality parts and build would provide significant added insurance to the longevity of the saw. I'm extremely fastidious with my power equipment care!

I'm trying to come to a final decision today and was going to ask the vendor to set aside the 357xp that he has in stock. I would appreciate your and others opinions.

I haven't ran the 357xp but some of these other guys have and said that it wouldn't be as good in bigger wood as the 359. After listening to some of these guys I'd say that the 359 would probably be a better saw for you. The 359 is a well made saw. It should last you a long time.

I was in the same boat that you are a few years ago. I bought a 359 and was satisfied with it for the most part. I've left big wood because the 359 took too long to cut it. I had to noodle it too so that I could handle it. Since I cut the real small limbs for firewood it would be somewhat tiresome after doing that for awhile. Your age and physical condition would come into play there though.

If you get the 359 make sure to buy a non cat muffler for it. They run cooler and better with it.

One thing I might add. Another $200.00 for a saw isn't much more if it's the last saw that you're going to buy.
 
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Non professional user opinion here....I am clearing heavily wooded land (~15 AC) for build site, cutting firewood for my OWB heater and cleaning up the remaining 95 AC. Trees are mainly red and white oak with some cherry and poplar mixed in (last logged ~60 yrs ago). Started the process with a 359/20" BC. Saw was adequate for my use but developed problems I nor my husky dealer could fix (turned out to be a bad carb). Could not wait on a problematic saw so I purchase an MS361. Even though the 359 is now running properly with non-cat muffler and new carb, I would strongly recommend the MS361, well worth the extra $. Handles better to me, cuts big hardwood better and has much better vibration isolation. The better vibration isolation of the MS 361 really makes a difference to me after a full day of cutting. Local stihl dealer is much better too, in fact he diagnosed my husky's problem (husky dealer couldn't, or wouldn't repair, warranty or not).
As much as I like my MS361, it is still a 60cc saw. AS has shown me that I really need more saw for the large oaks, so I bought a Dolmar 7900/24" BC too (CAD?), love it, but the 361 gets used 3:1 over the 7900.

Summary: Quality of dealer support is critical, probably more important than husky/stihl/dolmar performance differences. Given good dealer support the MS361 represents best value for me in a 60cc saw. I need more than one saw, 3 may not be enough. Beware of CAD.
 
The Dolmars Amicks has are good saws. I have the Makita 6401 (a Dolmar in blue) 64cc firewood saw. Run very well and seem to be well priced. I got a refurbished 6401 for $289, and have been very satisfied with it to date (but I like my 372XP more :) ).

Keep reading up on the fav saws, ypu'llbe reading a long time :dizzy: !
 
Non professional user opinion here....I am clearing heavily wooded land (~15 AC) for build site, cutting firewood for my OWB heater and cleaning up the remaining 95 AC. Trees are mainly red and white oak with some cherry and poplar mixed in (last logged ~60 yrs ago). Started the process with a 359/20" BC. Saw was adequate for my use but developed problems I nor my husky dealer could fix (turned out to be a bad carb). Could not wait on a problematic saw so I purchase an MS361. Even though the 359 is now running properly with non-cat muffler and new carb, I would strongly recommend the MS361, well worth the extra $. Handles better to me, cuts big hardwood better and has much better vibration isolation. The better vibration isolation of the MS 361 really makes a difference to me after a full day of cutting. Local stihl dealer is much better too, in fact he diagnosed my husky's problem (husky dealer couldn't, or wouldn't repair, warranty or not).
As much as I like my MS361, it is still a 60cc saw. AS has shown me that I really need more saw for the large oaks, so I bought a Dolmar 7900/24" BC too (CAD?), love it, but the 361 gets used 3:1 over the 7900.

Summary: Quality of dealer support is critical, probably more important than husky/stihl/dolmar performance differences. Given good dealer support the MS361 represents best value for me in a 60cc saw. I need more than one saw, 3 may not be enough. Beware of CAD.

Good post!

...but it is of cource just a snapshot of the overall situation - dealer support is not critival to everyone....
 
Good post!

...but it is of cource just a snapshot of the overall situation - dealer support is not critival to everyone....

SawTroll,

I've sent a PM to you. I hope you have the time to respond. Thanks!
 
As nice as the 5100 is it still falls short of the torque of a ~60 cc saw when it comes to pulling 3/8 chain on 18-20 inch bars.
 
All members,

First, I want to thank all members of AS for their input in helping me come to a decision regarding which saw to buy. Today I bought my saw and feel that I've made the right decision:

Husqvarna 346XP

Husqvarna AB (AB signifies the saw was made in Sweden)

S/N: 07 51xxxx (Manufactured the 51st week of 2007)

I had the dealer change the bar from an 18" to a 20":

Husqvarna 18" .325 .058 72DL Bar # HT258-72 changed to
Husqvarna 20" .325 .058 78DL Bar # HT258-78

And, the chain changed from 18" to 20":

Husqvarna 18" .325 .058 72DL H-21 changed to
Husqvarna 20" .325 .058 78DL H-21

I looked at the MS 361 today and feel that it is excellent saw and built like a tank, but it is probably more saw than I currently need. In addition, I just prefer the feel/balance of the Husky saws regardless of size.

If I require a larger saw, then I have the best of both worlds: a lighter professional 346XP and maybe choose a 372XP or equivalent in the future.

Again, I can't thank all AS members enough, including senior member(s), who took the time to respond to my PM in a timely manner.

P.S. One question: Did I get the new edition of the 346XP? I was told by Husqvarna that there were two updates to this saw one on 2/2007 and another on 8/2007. I assume that since my saw was manufactured on the 51st week of 2007 that it is the new edition. Is my assumption correct?
 
All members,

First, I want to thank all members of AS for their input in helping me come to a decision regarding which saw to buy. Today I bought my saw and feel that I've made the right decision:

Husqvarna 346XP

Husqvarna AB (AB signifies the saw was made in Sweden)

S/N: 07 51xxxx (Manufactured the 51st week of 2007)

I had the dealer change the bar from an 18" to a 20":

Husqvarna 18" .325 .058 72DL Bar # HT258-72 changed to
Husqvarna 20" .325 .058 78DL Bar # HT258-78

And, the chain changed from 18" to 20":

Husqvarna 18" .325 .058 72DL H-21 changed to
Husqvarna 20" .325 .058 78DL H-21

I looked at the MS 361 today and feel that it is excellent saw and built like a tank, but it is probably more saw than I currently need. In addition, I just prefer the feel/balance of the Husky saws regardless of size.

If I require a larger saw, then I have the best of both worlds: a lighter professional 346XP and maybe choose a 372XP or equivalent in the future.

Again, I can't thank all AS members enough, including senior member(s), who took the time to respond to my PM in a timely manner.

P.S. One question: Did I get the new edition of the 346XP? I was told by Husqvarna that there were two updates to this saw one on 2/2007 and another on 8/2007. I assume that since my saw was manufactured on the 51st week of 2007 that it is the new edition. Is my assumption correct?

If it has the silver clutch cover its the NE.
 
If it has the silver clutch cover its the NE.

Yes, it has the silver clutch cover!

Does anyone know where I can get the latest 346xp workshop manual? I downloaded one dated 2003, but it specifies the displacement as 45cc, so I don't think that is the latest manual.
 
Congrats on a very good saw - the best 50cc one out there! :clap: :clap:

Good choise of chain as well, H21 = Oregon 21LP (chisel chain).


I know your reasons for the long bar - but do yourself a favour, and get a 16" set-up as well. :cheers:
 
All AS members,

I’m sorry for not responding sooner, but I’ve was outside all day yesterday working at getting my wood up for the winter. I'm exceedingly pleased with the performance of my new Husky 346xp!

I agree with the consensus of many AS members that the one-saw solution doesn’t really work. My reason for choosing the 346xp was my recognition of this fact and seemed to be the best way to meet my immediate cutting needs. Therefore, I will probably select either the 372xp or MS 361 for heavier duty work.

By the way, REMEMBER SAFETY FIRST when it comes to operating any dangerous equipment, especially a chain saw! Read the safe cutting practices manuals and don't go beyond your capabilities.

I may have mentioned trying to cut more than one piece in a rack at a time. Trying to cut more than one piece at a time is highly dangerous, I believe, because of the potential for kickback and should never be done. If I am incorrect, I am open to correction.

Thanks again!
 
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