What's your climbing system for removals?

[SustainableTree]

I do mostly pruning....don't climb with hooks very much but am curious what type of system others are using? I spike up with a steelcore flipline/lanyard while hauling my climbing rope up that I use as a second lanyard when making cuts on a removal. If you are using something different please speak up! Do you "choker" your second lanyard when cutting? Just have never felt 100% secure, maybe it's because I don't do many removals, but would like to try other methods. Thanks.....great site, been reading posts for many months, first post of my own!

 

[clearance]

Welcome. I climb with a single steelcore and try to keep my rope coiled up and with me. Thats for the "strip and chunk" type of removals. Mostly what I do. The single lanyard is fine here, as long as its a steelcore. This topic has been beat to death, have fun.

 

[2FatGuys]

It varies with the tree. A conifer can be done quickly and safely like Clearance said, although I use another lanyard or climbing line as a backup (and preach that to my other climbers). Most hardwoods (around here, at least) tend to be easier to do when working from a highly placed climbing line, allowing more limb walking and freedom of movement. In that case, the steelcore becomes the second source of security. I keep several different lengths of climbing line in the truck so that I can set one that is long enough, but not "in the way", based on the specific tree.

 

[ClimbinArbor]

i use a split tail and biner on my climbing line. its like having a second lanyard. that and a buckstrap. thats 2 right??

 

[SustainableTree]

Thanks for the replies.........does anyone "choker" or double wrap their second strap or climbing line if that is the second lanyard? I just get this thought sometime about getting injured and having my spurs kick out at the same time, causing me to meet the ground at an uncomfortable pace. I've thought about running my climbing line throuh a false crotch set above the false crotch holding the block....seems like a lot of extra time. Mostly concerned about coming back down while blocking the spar.

 

[SustainableTree]

Follow up..............

Tell me if I'm being a baby and to just man up if I need to!

 

[Job Corps Tree]

what's your climbing system for removals

With the Split tails your climbing can be your #2 flip line just move to the Hip rings. I do like 2 safety's once doing a large Spruce I had the flip line pop up over the top of the log, for that 3 or 5 heartbeats I was holding the saw in one hand and the top of pole with the other, Last time now I will have the climbing line below the cut or that other flip line. you can chock off your climbing line with a Running Bowline and drop down 6 , 10 ,20 feet and use it for a high point to move around and cut you next notch and REMEMBER to drop the line down Before you do the back cut

 

[ClimbinArbor]

there is a pretty good illistration of using two lines and a rigging block in the 08 sherrill catalog that might be a good visual for you....

 

[SustainableTree]

Is it safe to assume the running bowline will hold on a spar.....when I limb on the way up I flush cut them as I know most folks do, PIA if you don't. So, if you descend say 15' on your climbing line tied to the top with a running bowline (or as I learned "rollin' bowline") are you descending SRT style or are you just flip lining down and still using the climbing rope as backup? Thanks for the advice........great site, great people!

 

[ClimbinArbor]

ive SRTed down a running bowline on a spar, but normally just come down DdRT. THEN tie a runnin bowline and pull it up.

i personally will also leave a 1 ft stub at several spots in the tree on the way up. to either double wrap my buckstrap onto while topping or such, or step on to remove pressure of spikes. i always try to top one at a stub, that way i can tie onto the stub instead of the trunk whenever possible. if you get a bad peeler you could eat wood hard before getting pulled in two pieces......
i remove all stubs on the way down, except the one holding my lifeline.

edit: forgot a word lol

 

[(WLL)]

wrapping your lanyard will help keep you in place and make you more stable on a spar. it helps you stay put when gravity is pulling you to the side. a rope-guide is a great tool for working down a crotchless tree and is a good friction saver if you need to go up again. the pic is of what i like too use.

 

[SustainableTree]

Thanks again for the replies! (WLL) thanks for the pic, are you using "The Rope Guide" advertised in Sherrill's catalog as your TIP? Kind of expensive.......I'm all for a good excuse to buy new gear though! Does anyone use a friction saver with a friction saver prusik on it? What is your opinion of these?

 

[(WLL)]

Thanks again for the replies! (WLL) thanks for the pic, are you using "The Rope Guide" advertised in Sherrill's catalog as your TIP? Kind of expensive.......I'm all for a good excuse to buy new gear though! Does anyone use a friction saver with a friction saver prusik on it? What is your opinion of these?

i have the rope guide for sale here in the sales section. ill let it go for a great price if you are lookin fer one.

 

[SustainableTree]

Hey (WLL) PM'd you about the rope guide..........how much ya want?

 

[eljefe]

Re: Removals

Hi, Jerry, the guy I learned from used a flipline to go up and down on removals. I will try to describe his (and hence my method). Assume that you've got the limbs off and are chunking down. Jerry used a flipline and spurs to go down to the next point in the trunk. At that point he would add a short climbing line, say 10 feet long, depending on the trunk diameter. The line would pass around the trunk and use a sliding hitch to lock it tight on the trunk. The other end would be tied on his sliding D with a becket hitch. The becket is quick to retie and you are adjusting this often as the tree diameter changes and to put a bit more or a bit less weight on either the butt or the back part of the belt to give one part or the other of your anatomy a rest. This whole arrangement would keep him bearing weight on the flipline but in the event of a kickout the choked line would not let him drop more than a foot or so. Very safe. Jerry was also famous for putting a climbing line in an adjacent tree, as well. Jerry moved away from the area, and I don't work with him anymore, but he still climbs petty much full time and he is pushing eighty. Yes that is 80. I have called it Jerry's method, rather than my own, as he was the one that taught it to me. El Jefe

 

[beowulf343]

Go up with flipline and climbing line with splittail as a second flip, chunk down with flipline and afs.

 

[SustainableTree]

Thanks for the advice ElJefe...........I think I will give that system a try on my next removal. Jerry sounds like a great person to know! Hope I'm climbing when I'm that old.......that is awesome!

 

[JeffL]

Depending on the tree, its a little different. I generally climb with 2 lanyards on my saddle 100% of the time, sometimes works out great for some interesting positioning while pruning, but it comes in mostly handy for removals.

If its just a bean pole like a single stem hemlock/spruce/pine whatever, I'll spur up and limb the spar on my way up, top it and then work my way back down chunking the wood out. If its a multistem tree or something fairly wide spreading, and depending on what targets there are around, we'll spur to the top, tie in, determine a good spot to rig off of, set in the strap, pulley and rope, head down to the bottom/sides and work out way up. If its in a real hairy spot near a house/target rich environment, the tie in/rigging point may be changed several times to accommodate the work that needs to be done.

 

[Marquis]

In removals, steel core flip line with a back up adjustable flipline, OSHA says gotta have 2 when using chainsaw in tree. Or sometimes use my long line as an extra, that way less to carry in tree if need to jump around later