What's Your Torque Wrench Adapter Setup For Jug Bolts?

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks for the input, guys. Guess the follow-up question I should have included in the original post would have been, "And how many of you guys even use em?"

The initial responses would seem to indicate not too many.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks for the input, guys. Guess the follow-up question I should have included in the original post would have been, "And how many of you guys even use em?"

The initial responses would seem to indicate not too many.

I got them and a 1/4"drive torque wrench, do I use them,...not very much. I have a built in feel for tight enough, it has never failed me in the 47 years I have used it on 2 strokes.

 

[hamish]

I too have them and still send my 1/4 torque wrench along with my 3/8 and 1/2" ones twice a year to be calibrated.........but I cant remeber the last time I used my 1/4" one. One of those things you get a feel for.

When the fastning toque is critial out comes the torque wrenches.

I mainly use my long allen key sockets for disassembly with a cordless impact after I have broken them loose by hand, but never use the impact for re-assembly.

 

[k5alive]

good secrets are not revealed. :msp_tongue:

 

[Lignator]

i just went through this :msp_tongue:

i bought this mcmaster

then use a socket to adapt to the torque wrench. BTW, 14 N-m felt like alot on the dolmar jug bolts.

I bought the 6" version, shipping was overnight and cheap.

 

[struggle]

To add another twistif you are torquing bolts down on a long bit driver the tool you are using will twist and you won't get a very accurate setting unless you account for twisting.

Same goes for using extensions on anything. Sockets don't twist but anything longer than a deepwell scoket willopcorn:

 

[Philbert]

To add another twist:

. . . . let me think about this for a moment . . .

Philbert

 

[Bubbles Up]

I use a torq wrench for most every fastener, comes with the aircraft trade.

 

[TreePointer]

The last time I used a T-handle driver on a 7900 jug, I snapped the bolt. I got a new bolt and used the following:

Craftsamn Microtork wrench
3/8 to 1/4 adapter
Wiha 6" T27 bit

No problems so far.

 

[Tzed250]

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Snap-on FTXL27E

Torx by zweitakt250, on Flickr

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[imagineero]

I think most guys don't use torque wrenches, I don't. I have a good collection of norbar torque wrenches including a low setting one that goes down to 5lb ft and can be adjusted in 0.5lb ft increments. It claims accuracy of 3% but the test certificate shows it ot be accurate to less than 1%. I use torque wrenches in critical applications, but jug bolts aren't head bolts. They only see crankcase pressure. So long as they are tight enough to not come undone by thsemselves then that's tight enough. There is no benefit to overtightening them which is what most guys seem to do.

If you're worried about too loose then the appropriate loctite for the job can be used, but that's really overkill.

Shaun

 

[TreePointer]

I use Loctite on some things, but I don't like the idea of using the kind that needs heat to undo the bond when it's around plastic/rubber parts. I most often use it on rifle scope mounts, but never on chainsaw cylinder threads.

 

[sachsmo]

A good t-handle, a ham fist and a strong wrist.

 

[brncreeper]

 

[imagineero]

I guess the other thing worth mentioning which always seems to crop up in threads about torque wrenches is that if you are going to use one you need to do all the other steps that go along with using one. The torque settings specified are for clean threads on both the bolt and the tapped hole, and sometimes are specified to be used with oil, antie sieze or dry. If there is no spec then it's generally dry. All of these variables change the torque you will need to use. If you intend to use a torque wrench then you also need to buy a (non thread cutting) botoming cleaning tap for cleaning out the threaded hole, and clean the bolt out then clean both with a solvent and spray off with compressed air before applying the appropriate type of oil/antisieze if specified by the factory.

It gets a bit silly, but that's how pro shops do their engines. I'm talking car engines here, not chainsaws. I do my head bolts that way, but not most other non-critical bolts. Head bolts on cars I own are in the 50+ year old range though, so they're pretty far from original condition generally.

Shaun

 

[ncfarmboy]

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Pics didn't come with reply. Snapon wrench like Tzed250.

+1 Exactly what I use. My mechanic mentor instilled the use of torque wrenches for head bolts. Deeply ingrained I always torque my cyl. bolts. If it were not important they would not give a torque spec. The book would say tighten em tight.
Shep

 

[Tzed250]

A torque wrench for the base bolts is less about sealing and more about keeping the cylinder round.