When is it appropriate to NOT use a felling notch?

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i can only speak for myself,but i do not know the dialogue of the east coast,and am not playing on that...rather i am just poking fun in general...lifes too short to get all serious and ####!

Aint it!


I myself have a hard time understanding alot of the older cutters myself, never herd of a side band swarp notch either, just seen the actual deal..


I can hear the old boys talkin about it now though... man they got some native draw to em!!!
 
Seems like you fellers are pokin a bit of fun at the east coast timber faller's dialog..

Nope. Swarp is/was a common term in this valley, used by the descendants of the original Euro folk, who came here from back there somewhere. There's a lot who migrated here from East Tennessee. And West Virginia. This part of the valley was called The Big Bottom. We have the Big Bottom (formerly a tavern, now upgraded for the tourii) Grill. .

Siwash is a logging term that is quite common when working with yarder logging.

So, just swarp your mind clear of any misconceptions and enjoy the linguistical stuff.
 
Nope. Swarp is/was a common term in this valley, used by the descendants of the original Euro folk, who came here from back there somewhere. There's a lot who migrated here from East Tennessee. And West Virginia. This part of the valley was called The Big Bottom. We have the Big Bottom (formerly a tavern, now upgraded for the tourii) Grill. .

Siwash is a logging term that is quite common when working with yarder logging.

So, just swarp your mind clear of any misconceptions and enjoy the linguistical stuff.

You bet haha.

thanks for the learnin sesh!
 
Photos

Wow, thanks for the great feedback. I had a chance to get online a day early this week, so here I am....with photos and a diagram. Tomorrow i walk to the city and will use the library to check online.

I bought my MS180 2 years ago, that was the first time I ever used a chainsaw in my life. Not opposed to sawing, just never had a need. Anway the manual came in Portuguese, since i live on a portuguese island...and i do not speak portuguese...so i figured out how to work it myself and proceeded to cut an acre of jungle. mainly incenso and acatia trees spread over a 45 degree mountainside. at the time there was not internet so i could not get online to get an english manual or ask questions.
i made a lot of mistakes, but now i KNOW why i do NOT do certain things, that I now have read about. Now I bought a MS660 for the larger euks, although i did drop a 130 cm tree with my 35 bar. landed in my bathroom when the winch snapped! Anyway, on to the problem at hand.

There were a lot of posts, so let me try to make sense of some of the common ideas.

basically, ALWAYS use a notch.

also the tree has a diameter of 75 cm.

the "pro" i hired to fell the two trees that landed in our garden was recommended to me, so i did not check his credentials well. my mistake. on an island of 4000 there are few pros at anything other than fishing and dairy.

you need photos to make sense of what i am talking about...so here they are.

first, the last euk i cut using "my method". the trunk is uphill of the stump against the natural lean and weight, nearly identical to present problem tree.
IMG_2178.jpg


now the problem tree.
IMG_2183.jpg

IMG_2184.jpg

IMG_2165.jpg


IMG_2192.jpg


or all the photos are on photobucket here
http://s628.photobucket.com/albums/uu3/magnusflores/

thanks allot for the input, i need help.
trust me, if there were a pro to hire here i would!
not proud, just can´t find good help these days.
 
Cool

You get around a bit hey :clap:.. I would still put in a small face .. It looks like the wood is fairly brittle , as I mentioned , I would take up a good strain , then put in a small face , not very deep but have your sloping face cut be steep enough so the face won,t totally close as tree falls .. No deeper than 1/4th the diameter of the tree ... At least 4 inches of stump shot .. Back cut higher than the face cut ........

Asd a side note , couldn,t you have found a steeper place to live :cheers: .. I,m joking , I bet yalls legs and lungs are in very good shape !!!!!!! Be careful ... I really enjoyed your story and pics , Thanks ...
 
man thats a lot of side lean. If you can risk it, you can try to pull it around with a face making as wide a hinge as possible then back cutting leaving the uphill side of the hinge fatter than the under the lean side, but that hinge is still likely to pop as soon as the tree stsrts falling. I fthis type of mistake is a really bad thing, you need a climber to get some of that crown weight off before you try and fall it.
 
You get around a bit hey :clap:.. I would still put in a small face .. It looks like the wood is fairly brittle , as I mentioned , I would take up a good strain , then put in a small face , not very deep but have your sloping face cut be steep enough so the face won,t totally close as tree falls .. No deeper than 1/4th the diameter of the tree ... At least 4 inches of stump shot .. Back cut higher than the face cut ........

Asd a side note , couldn,t you have found a steeper place to live :cheers: .. I,m joking , I bet yalls legs and lungs are in very good shape !!!!!!! Be careful ... I really enjoyed your story and pics , Thanks ...

i used to love travelling, but now i am trying to settle down.

legs are aching all the time! but we are fit and healthy...the beer gut is gone after 3 years here!

carrying 20 lbs of machine up and down these mountains is tiring, but at least i get a nice view to keep me motivated.

as far as cutting this tree, it sounds like your summation is in line with all that i have read. is stump shot the same as hinge? how much higher should the back cut be?
 
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