Where to get ripping chain sharpened?

[rfalk]

Hi,
I am back into chainsaw milling after a 20 year hiatus and have bought several new ripping chains for my Stihl 076/Grandberg mill. I bought the Woodland Pro Ripping Chain from Baileys (0.404 pitch, 0.063) and it works fine. Now that I have dulled several chains, I am ready to have them resharpened, however I can't find anyone locally to do it. I know many of you will say that I should learn to sharpen them myself by hand, however I just don't have the time right now to go through the learning curve....

Any online sharpening services anyone can recommend that handle ripping chains and that don't take you to the cleaners on cost?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, bob

 

[motoroilmccall]

I find it hard to believe you don't have a local shop that can do it. Theres 3 places all within 30 minutes of here who can do ripping chain for me, and even for the big 60" loop its $6 per chain at the cheapest place, $8 at the most expensive. A Stihl dealer should (not a guarantee) be able to do them if they sell ripping chain. Same with a Husky, Echo, Dolmar, Shindaiwa, and so on dealers. If you still can't find anyone try posting a wanted ad on Craigslist in the Farm and Garden or Tools section, someone in your area must know how to do it.

 

[timberwolf]

Why not do it your self? Rip chain is easier to sharpen than regular chain, Some cases no angles at all to keep track of depending on what chain you have. Just file straight accross 90 deg to the bar, no up hand or down hand.

 

[Zodiac45]

Anyone that sharpens your regular saw chain can also sharpen ripping chain. Just make sure you tell them that it's ripping chain and (in the Bailey's case) it's 10 degrees cutter (versus 30) and 70 (versus 60) grinder head angle. The head angle isn't as importent as the cutter. You could just tell the guy too grind it at 10 degress and not confuse him too much. A 10/60 would work fine for you. Anyone who's sharpened chains before with a grinder is going to see right away that the cutter angle is different.

 

[rfalk]

Anyone that sharpens your regular saw chain can also sharpen ripping chain. Just make sure you tell them that it's ripping chain and (in the Bailey's case) it's 10 degrees cutter (versus 30) and 70 (versus 60) grinder head angle. The head angle isn't as importent as the cutter. You could just tell the guy too grind it at 10 degress and not confuse him too much. A 10/60 would work fine for you. Anyone who's sharpened chains before with a grinder is going to see right away that the cutter angle is different.

Yup, this is what I thought, however when I visited my Stihl dealer they were surprizingly limited....said they could only sharpen at a 30 degree angle (stupid, eh?)....probably to lazy to change angles on their sharpener.....had some regular chainsaw chains sharpened at the same time....$8 for a 20" chain....a little steep compared to prices mentioned above....

I admit, I have been lazy about sharpening my own saw chains....will maybe try the ripping chain as it is at 0 degrees....however, I seem to have difficulty finding time to saw, much less sharpen....a problem with not being retired, I guess.

Thanks for the input, bob

 

[Nikko]

I picked up the Northern grinder (because of this place ), modified it (per notes from this place), bought new wheels for it (per notes form this place) and sharpen my own now.

The HUGE advantage to doing it myself is I only grind away what I need to, which isn't very much. So not only do I have sharp milling chains all the time, they last a lot longer too. and if there's power at the milling site, I take the grinder with me.

Highly recommended behavior

Nikkko

 

[timberwolf]

Even a long rip chain should not take long to re-edge 10 or 15 min tops, don't often rock them out, so just needs a stroke or two on each tooth to bring them back.

 

[dustytools]

Have you thought about trying out a bar mounted file guide? I started sharpening my ripping chains with one when I first got into milling and it helped me to get through the learning curve a little quicker. After using one for a while I kinda got the feel for how the file should be in relation to the chain and eventually took off doing them freehand with pretty good results. If this does look like it might be an option that you would be interested in just Pm me your addy and Ill box one up and sent it to ya.

 

[oldsaw]

Even a long rip chain should not take long to re-edge 10 or 15 min tops, don't often rock them out, so just needs a stroke or two on each tooth to bring them back.

Exactly. Don't get them sharpened yet, you can touch them up a few times before you need to turn them over to be sharpened.

Mark

 

[rfalk]

I picked up the Northern grinder (because of this place ), modified it (per notes from this place), bought new wheels for it (per notes form this place) and sharpen my own now.

The HUGE advantage to doing it myself is I only grind away what I need to, which isn't very much. So not only do I have sharp milling chains all the time, they last a lot longer too. and if there's power at the milling site, I take the grinder with me.

Highly recommended behavior

Nikkko

Nikko,
Could you provide the model no. you got from Northern? Also, the link to the modifications you mentioned? Maybe I should just buy a good grinder and do all my chains.....probably pay for itself in a few years, no? bob

 

[Nikko]

Better grab a coffee, you could be a while

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39995

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=55317

I run three loops on the big saw and two for the small one. In addition we have a group saw that also has a couple of loops. I average $10/loop for sharpening so one round of loops would cost $70. The grinder was landed at my house for about $130 and I spent an extra $20 on wheels etc. The first 2 rounds of sharpening almost paid for the grinder. By the third round I was making $$. It's pretty much a no-brainer for me.

Nikko

 

[Zodiac45]

Nikko,
Could you provide the model no. you got from Northern? Also, the link to the modifications you mentioned? Maybe I should just buy a good grinder and do all my chains.....probably pay for itself in a few years, no? bob

+1 Yep I think it's a good investment and the Northern is a clone of the Oregon 511A. It's around $100 or so and does a good job based on everyone here who's bought one. I have a Speed Sharp (Italian version) but they are all quite similar. It easily pays for itself when you are paying $8 for a 20" for sure! The Bailey's chain you bought is 10 degree. The beauty is you can make them anything you want. Just remember too always take as little as possible and if you are changing the angle, do it in small increments and a little at a time. I do my neighbor's chains and barter for eggs and produce out of his garden! We purposly grow different stuff and trade off.

 

[rfalk]

Thought I would close this tread by saying that I broke down and bought a Oregon 551a chain grinder. Found a new one on Craigslist the other day for less than $200.....street price on Ebay is $275+, so a pretty good deal. No excuses now, should have sharp chain from now on. BTW, I had previously bought a Harbor Freight sharpener...what a piece of c**p......I don't know how anyone could produce a consistent grind on such a machine....

 

[Zodiac45]

Thought I would close this tread by saying that I broke down and bought a Oregon 551a chain grinder. Found a new one on Craigslist the other day for less than $200.....street price on Ebay is $275+, so a pretty good deal. No excuses now, should have sharp chain from now on. BTW, I had previously bought a Harbor Freight sharpener...what a piece of c**p......I don't know how anyone could produce a consistent grind on such a machine....

Well done and good deal. You'll now have the ability too do all your chains better than they'd be done commercially. Take your time and get you initial set up correct, then just skim them. Don't forget your rakers too. I touch them every 3-4 sharpenings of the cutters.