which .325 chain?

[bdenny]

I have always had pretty good luck with 72 lg chain on my 372 but I have been wondering about the best chain for my 350 lately. I have been running 33lg for quite a while but the other day I came across the stock 95vp chain that came with my saw. I did a few test cuts with it and I was surprised at its speed and smoothness for a round cutter. I tried stihl RS as the first chain when I bought the saw but it seemed like it almost cut too agressively for the saw at the time. It was probably just because the saw wasnt broken in yet but I decided to switch to the smaller profile 33lg and have been pretty happy with it since. I think if they came out with narrow kerf chain with a square cutter they might be on to something. Anyone have any opinions on these chains as to which might be the fastest? Or better yet, anyone done any timed cuts with them? Also, even though oregons recommendation for file size for the 33lg is 4.5mm(I think), I have always had the best luck filing this chain with a 5/32 file. The 4.5 seems like it doesnt even fit in the tooth and it really digs into the side links.


thanks for any advice,
Brent

 

[treeclimber165]

I've always run the Stihl RS on my 026 and you are right. It is quite aggressive out of the box. Russ (Jokers) recently sent me a couple loops of Oregon chain to try out and report back to him. He sent me the LP and LG in .325 pitch.

The LG seemed like the metal was very soft, it didn't hold an edge very long and the file sliced right through it when I sharpened it. You are correct in that the 3/16" file doesn't fit very well and I ended up cutting into the tie straps when sharpening it.

The LP is a type of kickback reduction chain but the anti-kickback rakers are lower than the tooth rakers. They do not slow you down in the cut like most safety chains. The metal in the teeth is also much harder than the LG and the chain holds an edge very well. It is about equal to the Stihl RS chain in it's ability to hold an edge.

I'd recommend you try a loop of the LP chain and possibly try the Stihl RS again. You should be able to find the LP cheaper than the Stihl chain though.

 

[lync]

File size

I've read in oregons service manual that the 33-34-35 series chains can be sharpened with 4.8 mm file. Its a touch smaller than 3/16. I use this file for the first half of the tooth and the 4.5(5/32) for the second half of the tooth as it gets a little smaller as you repeatedly file it. thge file is available through Oregon online dealers. It does make a difference.

Corey

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I have to admit, I'm a bit confused by Brian's post.
Does the hardness of the cutter, underneth the chrome, have anything to do with stay sharp? I understand that thicker chrome would help stay sharp in cutting, but once the chrome is dulled back, what does the hardness of the cutter have to do with stay sharp?

I assume he knows that a 3/16 is larger than the factory recommneds, but does he know that they also recommened holding the file at 90 degrees to the chain? Doing this, the file is not hitting the tie strap.

What about bumper straps? Higher than the cutter? Not slowing the chain down in the cut? Anytime the tip is buried, bumper straps slow the cut, not to mention the channel clogging and increased inertia.

bdenny, I am also intrigued by the narrow kerf chain. You have to set up a log, get a stop watch, and do some timed cuts. I doubt anyone here has done the tests.
Of course, this means a different bar too.

 

[treeclimber165]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
I have to admit, I'm a bit confused by Brian's post.
Does the hardness of the cutter, underneth the chrome, have anything to do with stay sharp? I understand that thicker chrome would help stay sharp in cutting, but once the chrome is dulled back, what does the hardness of the cutter have to do with stay sharp?

If you made a chain out of silly putty and chromed it, would it stay sharp? I don't think so. Yes, the hardness of the metal directly affects how long the chain holds an edge

I assume he knows that a 3/16 is larger than the factory recommneds, but does he know that they also recommened holding the file at 90 degrees to the chain? Doing this, the file is not hitting the tie strap.

Russ sent me a 3/16" file with the two chains, and I have always used 3/16" files on .325 chains. After the first filing attempt I realized that the LG should use a smaller file. But I do not normally have oddball size files on hand, only 5/32", 3/16" and 7/32". This diversion has little to do with the topic at hand. Sounds like you are simply trying to discredit me. I can hold my own when it comes to sharpening a chain.

What about bumper straps? Higher than the cutter? Not slowing the chain down in the cut? Anytime the tip is buried, bumper straps slow the cut, not to mention the channel clogging and increased inertia.

You obviously didn't read what I said. The anti-kickback bumpers on the LP are lower than the tooth rakers so they do not interfere with the cutting ability. My opinion is simply from the perspective of someone who has made a living with chainsaws for over 15 years. I'm not an expert on perceived channel clogging or increased inertia, just what works and what doesn't.

You are correct in one point, you ARE confused. You offered a lot of assumptions and criticisms in your post but not much helpful info. My earlier post was simply trying to offer helpful info on the topic based on my experience comparing 3 different chains in the last 3 months.

 

[Tony Snyder]

I sell and use the Carlton K series chain. Most of the users for .325 are not pros and therefore can use all the filing help they can get. You can use the nifty file-o-plate with Carlton. Its about the best file guide out there.

In 3/8 I am now selling about 1/3 quantity of that size in Oregon, the rest Carlton.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Instead of arguing “tit for tat” with Brian, I’ll try to explain how I think a chain cuts, thus dispelling the old “hard to file, hard to dull” theories.
First, I’ll attach a cross section drawing of a cutter, looking top down, through the side plate. When a cutter is manufactured, it is made of soft steel, then chromed. The chrome is much harder than the soft steel.
See attachment.
If the cutter has a thin chrome laminate, it will cut fast, but the chrome will break away easier, thus dull faster. If a cutter has a thick chrome, it dulls slowly but never has a sharp edge, so cuts slow.
The saw is only as sharp as the chrome is thin.

 

[treeclimber165]

In my experience with 3 different styles of .325 chain, I would rate them as follows on a scale of 1-5:

Stihl RS- 4+
Oregon LP (anti kickback)- 4
Oregon LG- 2

The Stihl and Oregon LP have the 'cheater line' etched into the top of the tooth showing the farthest safe filing spot. The line is also a handy site tool for hand filing- simply keep your file parallel to the line. The LG does not have this line on the tooth.

 

[jokers]

Hi Mike, I`m not going to try and defend Brian, I don`t think he needs the help, but I do have to disagree with a few of your statements. First, the guys in the hardware store who blue the tooth are SOFT annealing it, this is not the same as work hardening, so they are in fact the enemy. I also believe the hardness of the tooth is a factor but I have not recognized any significant difference between Stihl chain and Oregon chain in this regard, however I have taken note of Brian`s comments. I sent Brian the 3/16 file because it is the correct file for the 22LP that I sent him and I know from experience that although the recommended file size for the 35LG is 4.5mm, that a 3/16 will work better than the 5/32 which gives a little too much hook on a new tooth. Sorry but I did not have any 4.5mm files on hand when I sent these items to Brian. I will include a link to the Oregon site which specifies that both of these chains require a 10° down angle on the file handle for proper filing. I will also attach a pic of 34LG vs 21LP vs 73LG which is the Oregon standard for 3/8 pitch round ground chisel for comparative purposes. One thing about the 35LG that Brian initially found troublesome, or maybe just annoying, is the beak in the gullet which needs to be broken out the first time you file, but after that this chain files nicely until it is so short that you should switch to the 5/32 file. RussOregon Manual .325 Chain

 

[Bruiser]

I've been on a search for the best .325 chain myself. I've tried
1. Carlton KL
2. Oregon LG
3. Oregon LP
4. Windsor LJ (on the advise of Mr. Galer).
The Windsor (also available as Laser C-series I think) has the largest, most aggressive .325 cutter without the psuedo-wank links of the LP. The LP has a bigger cutter than the Carlton and LG and cuts better than both even with the bumpers. The LG does seem to dull quick. The Carlton stays sharp, but seems brittle (I lost a couple teeth). I've not used the other 2 enough to compare the hardness. Of course the bigger cutter doesn't necessarily mean a faster chain if your saw can't pull it. I'm using a warmed-over 350 with an 8-pin rim with a 14" bar and have no problem making the bigger cutters of the LP and LJ cut well. With an 18-20" bar, the smaller cutters may win. I haven't tried the Stihl RS, but now that I've switched to .050, maybe I can get a loop to compare (is there a reason Stihl ignores .058?).

 

[ClearH20Scott]

I need to ask a dumb question pertaining to drive links. I have
replaced my 18" bar on my 346 with a 16", 66DL. I do not like
the two left hand cutters following one another, even though
it doesn't seem to affect the cutting. Can I add a link, or does it
screw up the math between the drive sprocket and the bar
sprocket? Do I need to go up a pin on my drive? I have a loop
of 23RS, 67DL, that I could just throw on and see what happens.
I assume there are rules that need to be followed, and I have
always just used what the bar has stamped on it. Thanks.

 

[Crofter]

Adding the extra drive links does two things you would want to be aware of. It will take your bar away from the sprocket and may take it to the end of the adjusting slots as the chain gets loose and worn. Also consider the location of the oil delivery channel limits in regard to oil hole in bars new location. The chain will also have a longer unsupported ride between the end of the bar and the sprocket but not sure how important that is. If you move up a tooth in sprocket size at the same time it would cancel out some of the change in length, but will the resulting "gear ratio" change be good? Just food for thought.
The .325 chain with the larger tooth profile will outcut the smaller ones on bigger wood and bigger displacement saws.( more chip clearance ) The smaller saw and limbing and brushing will be happier with the smoothness of the smaller profile cutter.

Frank

 

[treeclimber165]

ClearH2OScott-
I prefer the chains with two teeth in a row on the same side. It makes it much easier when filing the chain since it gives you a definite start/finish spot. When I touch up my chains in the field I do not always have perfect lighting and I may be distracted by other matters while filing. With the double left teeth on my 026 I am not likely to miss my start/finish spot. It makes absolutely no noticable difference in cutting.

 

[ClearH20Scott]

10-4 Brian,

I think I'll just leave well enough alone. It doesn't cut any
different than it did with 72DL. I'm going to try the 67DL just
for the heck of it. That 20LP isn't bad, I can't say yet whether I
like it more than the K1L which is what I usually run on the saw.

 

[timberwolf]

Good point on the paired teeth as a filing indicator.

If you don't like having 2 teeth in a row cutting the same way you would be better off making a chain one drive link shorter, as long as you can fit it on you should not have problems, it seems most saws have enough adjusment to go +- .325 of an inch. You may need to fiddle a bit more to get the bar and chain in place.

Timberwolf

 

[ClearH20Scott]

timberwolf,

I thought about that too, but the dang chain is such a bear to
get on already, that I figured I better go the other route.
There seems to be plenty of adjustment to add one. I need to
find that stinkin' 67DL chain, it's around the here somewhere.

Thanks