Which saw for CSM

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curdy

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Used/reconditioned saw CSM

OK, if you had roughly $600 set aside for a saw to use just for milling, what would you get? From what I've read it looks like I should plan on getting a 90cc+ saw.

The main question is where should I be looking? Should I just call up the local Stihl and Husky dealers to see if they have any reconditioned saws? Ebay is fine with me, but I don't want to get stuck with a piece of junk that's been beat up.


I've got the funding now so I'd rather get the right tool for the job. I'll be milling some large stuff, so I don't want to skimp on power.

Thanks!
 
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OK, I know there are a good number of posts regarding this subject, but I coming from a different perspective. A lot of people have asked if their model ___ will be a good saw to use...and I've read some very helpful info on the replies.

However. my question is: if you had roughly $600 set aside for a saw to use just for milling, what would you get? From what I've read my options are pretty limited to either a 660, 064, 395XP, or a 385XP. But by all means, please give your opinions because I'm posting this so I can find out which is best, or if something else is. (And I'm not brand loyal, so let's not start a Stihl-Husky war :laugh:) I'm OK with buying used...but how do I know if the thing has been beat up?

Should I just call up the local Stihl and Husky dealers to see if they have any reconditioned saws? Ebay is fine with me, but again, I don't want to get stuck with a piece of junk.

I've got the funding now so I'd rather get the right tool for the job. Its up in the air right now as far as what size stuff I'll be milling. I already have some large stuff available to mill, and will plan on doing more. So I guess I would say I'd need it to hadle big stuff.

Thanks!

Just be carefull if you buy a saw on EbayThere is alot of junk out there... 660-395 good choices, milling is really hard on a saw so you want the best start you can find..



.
 
Hey, I was going to tell you not to listen to Ultra because he is a saw addict. After reading his post, he is absolutely right (whooda thunk it?...nah, he knows his stuff, just poking some fun at him).

Try to find yourself a good used 660/066 or 394/395 or similar 95-100cc saw and go have some fun. If you are careful, you can get a good saw for that kind of money. I paid $400 for a well used, but well maintained 066 and two 36" bars (the guy sent 3 but one was trashed). Had to rebuild the carb and replace the chainbrake assembly, and replace the pull rope, otherwise the thing hasn't missed a beat. I got my whole beginning CSM set-up for less than $650, saw, mill, chains and all. I could brag about how cheap I was getting by until I got the "call for more power" brought on by a friend who kept finding 36"+ logs. So, I bought another saw...bigger, better, faster, newer, nicer, and it felt gooooood.

Start shopping, there are a lot of guys on here to help you. Have you checked the "For Sale" ads here on AS? Good place to know what you are getting. Just a thought.

Mark
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I changed my question around some because I wanted it to be geared more towards where it find a good saw...you guys answered while I was editing it...the good part is that you both answered it that way anyway! Thanks!

No I haven't checked out AS's used section...will do that next.
 
Looking for deals usually means some effort (dont mean that the wrong way). I've gotten good deals off of ebay that worked well for me. Many times tho, being someplace in person can do more. I got my 090 off the back shelf at a local sawshop for $450. Shopping with a local dealer can make for good friends, and better deals in the long run as well.
Russell
 
Looking for deals usually means some effort (dont mean that the wrong way). I've gotten good deals off of ebay that worked well for me. Many times tho, being someplace in person can do more. I got my 090 off the back shelf at a local sawshop for $450. Shopping with a local dealer can make for good friends, and better deals in the long run as well.
Russell

I agree completely! The other day I was able to pick up an 075AV in good running/cosmetic condition from a local dealer that I had just become aquainted with. He sold it to me for $250 with a 28" bar and nearly new 3/8 chain on it.:biggrinbounce2: And that was with me paying him his asking price. I wouldn't of batted an eye if he would've said three hundred. Win / Win situations make for happy campers indeed:hmm3grin2orange: !
 
Stick clear of Ebay, i got a half shot saw from there once. It runs ok but its still not the good condition they said it was. Dealers are best as they can look over the saw first, stop you getting a dud.

Personally i'd get the biggest you can afford. i got a 660 because it was less than a 3120 however i 'could' have afforded the the 3120. Now i regret it as i have lots to mill. Infact i hate my 660 so much on Monday i'm going to see if i can trade it in for a 3120
 
I'm going to weigh in on the side of the local dealer Dan. There are several within couple hours of you. Jump on line and find Stihl/Husky dealers. Make a few phone calls, take a road trip and stop in and talk, tell them you are looking for a good used 100cc range saw, and you might find somebody who is willing to deal. Second best would be somebody on AS that is a regular and has a good reputation. Only reason I say second is because at the local dealer you can actually touch and feel the thing before you buy. Ebay is unfortunately still a crapshoot. Most people are honest, but when you're spending that much money on something and you get a lemon from somebody who is not, you're usually out of luck.
 
I'll chime in with the Ebay thing too. I just got my 084 that was listed in good running condition. Upon receiving it in the mail, I took it directly to a stihl dealer to have it looked over. Saw had less than 80lbs. compression. Luckily the seller worked a deal out with me that was fair to both of us, but that could easily go the other way. Part of the problem, people selling the saws don't know enough about them to truly judge it's condition. I believe that was the case with my saw. But beware, many scammers out there that are selling on ebay only because they know it's not being demo'd prior to the sale. Watch feedback. I won't bid any ebay item with anyone but perfect feedback. If someone has maybe one negative, go check out the the feedback of the person who left the negative feedback. That'll give you a clue of the persons character.
 
Stick clear of Ebay, i got a half shot saw from there once. It runs ok but its still not the good condition they said it was. Dealers are best as they can look over the saw first, stop you getting a dud.

Personally i'd get the biggest you can afford. i got a 660 because it was less than a 3120 however i 'could' have afforded the the 3120. Now i regret it as i have lots to mill. Infact i hate my 660 so much on Monday i'm going to see if i can trade it in for a 3120

Brush, how could you "hate" a 660? Being a guy who owns both of those saws, if you "hate" your 660, you are going to "intensely dislike" milling with your new 3120. Chainsaw milling is hard and slow, and the 3120 isn't going to change that much. It will be no faster on smaller logs unless you put a bigger rim sprocket on it, and it will really only show it "oats" in the big stuff (30", 75cm and up), where it will begin to bog a bit where the 660 would stall when working it hard.

Don't get me wrong, I love the 3120 for milling, just don't expect the difference to be "night and day". CSMing takes a lot of time and patience, and works best for smaller batches. If you have a lot to do, figure on spending the time with either saw.

Mark
 
Part of the problem, people selling the saws don't know enough about them to truly judge it's condition.

Yeah, and vice versus...I'm no expert to tell what I'm buying!

I'm with you Woodshop, and everybody else that says to go to the dealer. I'd much rather pay a little extra and trust I'm getting a good piece of equipment. Tomorrow I'll make some new friends at the Husky and Stihl dealerships.
 
Yeah, and vice versus...I'm no expert to tell what I'm buying!

I'm with you Woodshop, and everybody else that says to go to the dealer. I'd much rather pay a little extra and trust I'm getting a good piece of equipment. Tomorrow I'll make some new friends at the Husky and Stihl dealerships.

If there are saws that size in your dealerships. That was my problem. If I were to wait for any of the local Stihl dealers to get in a used 066/660, I would be too old to mill. Heck, I had one who wanted $700 for an 075, and that was the only big saw he had even had in stock for years.

If those saws actually exist in your neck of the woods, you are in good shape. I'm the "saw shop freak" in KC with the 3120, and the 066 is a rare sight too.

Mark
 
good used saws can be found at local dealers, depending on area. Where I work, a 440 is hard to find, but 1/2 south of where I live is the middle of logging country. Lots of burnt up, beat up ex logger saws out there. I recently bought a pretty clean 066 with scored p/c for super cheap...

Stick with something that is fairly newer and have parts available for a while.

Something like a 066/660, 395xp, 394xp, 084 088 3120 to name a few.


-Steve
 
Brush, how could you "hate" a 660? Being a guy who owns both of those saws, if you "hate" your 660, you are going to "intensely dislike" milling with your new 3120. Chainsaw milling is hard and slow, and the 3120 isn't going to change that much. It will be no faster on smaller logs unless you put a bigger rim sprocket on it, and it will really only show it "oats" in the big stuff (30", 75cm and up), where it will begin to bog a bit where the 660 would stall when working it hard.

Don't get me wrong, I love the 3120 for milling, just don't expect the difference to be "night and day". CSMing takes a lot of time and patience, and works best for smaller batches. If you have a lot to do, figure on spending the time with either saw.

Mark

I've had problems with the 660. The bolts that hold the casings on are in silly places. Worse thing is that the spark plug pops out quite regually, only saw i've ever had that does it. I'm usually a Husky user and i've done small log mlling on my 365 and never had any problems.
 
Chainsaw milling is hard and slow, and the 3120 isn't going to change that much. It will be no faster on smaller logs unless you put a bigger rim sprocket on it, and it will really only show it "oats" in the big stuff (30", 75cm and up), where it will begin to bog a bit where the 660 would stall when working it hard.

Don't get me wrong, I love the 3120 for milling, just don't expect the difference to be "night and day". CSMing takes a lot of time and patience, and works best for smaller batches. If you have a lot to do, figure on spending the time with either saw.

Mark

Hey Mark, that helps, thanks. I already have 1 large 30"+ oak in my back yard that I plan to tackle. And as the milling guru Woodshop explained, I will have opportunities to mill that size stuff again for sure.

I'm still thinking to go with something around the 660 or 395 for the exact reason you just said, plan on taking your time with one that size, or one a little stronger. I think I'll save the $200-$300? premium I'd pay for a used 880 or 3120 and put it in the piggy bank for a Ripsaw later.
 
If those saws actually exist in your neck of the woods, you are in good shape. I'm the "saw shop freak" in KC with the 3120, and the 066 is a rare sight too.
Mark

Oldsaw I'm in the same boat here right outside of Philadelphia. First of all, there are few saw shops, mostly lawnmower guys who happen to sell saws also. Of those, they stock/sell/rotate up to an MS460 if that, because there are few in this area that use anything bigger. You have to head out into the country more, where there are actual loggers, and shops that cater to them.

Not complaining... just concurring.
 
I've had problems with the 660. The bolts that hold the casings on are in silly places. Worse thing is that the spark plug pops out quite regually, only saw i've ever had that does it. I'm usually a Husky user and i've done small log mlling on my 365 and never had any problems.

Very interesting. I've had more stuff fall off my Husky than my 066. I have had the spark plug back out once on the 066 after some long and hard milling. I've had one of the muffler screws back out of the 3120, unfortunately they pass through to the bar oil tank, so bar oil went everywhere. Lost the air filter once, and it will loosen up the bar nuts every now and then. I just check them before I begin now, with both saws.

Happy milling.


Mark
 
So far if I wanted one in the next couple of days I see a 088 and a 394xpg. One for sale here and the other on ebay (listed by a AS member). I've read quite a bit that the extra weight on something like a 088/880 or a 3120 is more of a problem when milling compared to the lighter saws one step down. Oldsaw, your thoughts on this?
 
So far if I wanted one in the next couple of days I see a 088 and a 394xpg. One for sale here and the other on ebay (listed by a AS member). I've read quite a bit that the extra weight on something like a 088/880 or a 3120 is more of a problem when milling compared to the lighter saws one step down. Oldsaw, your thoughts on this?

Weight isn't a problem when you are milling. The log supports the weight of the saw, not your back, and the mill makes the bar stiffer. I've still done far more milling with the 066 than the 3120, but the 3120 is an easier saw to mill with. The downside of the 088 is the bar mount tends to leave you with more expensive bars, or some creative machinework. One bar, however, will last quite a while, and mill a goodly amount of wood. I was attracted to the 3120 because I could use a bar adapter to mount up my Stihl bars (with some minor bar modifications...ie lengthening the slot since the Husky bar mount is further away from the sprocket than a Stihl mount. In other words, I'm cheap, and I was able to upgrade the powerhead and use my old bars.

Don't shy away from a 394/395 or an 066/660, but an 088/880 or a 3120 is a better milling saw in the long run. The advantage of the smaller saw is that you have a big bucking/falling saw that isn't overly chunky to use for a while. I can run my 066 for quite a while bucking and falling, but with my bad back, the extra weight of a bigger saw would do me in (4 herniated discs in my back). Then again, nothing sounds like a big saw on the mill...the 3120 puts out this puposeful moan that only a big bore two stroke can have. Sounds almost civilized....almost.

Mark
 

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