spacemule
The Peanut Gallery
You guys have to keep the saws in their place. If you warm them up, next thing you know they'll be wanting synthetic oil and diamond carbide tipped chains.
who warms up their saws?
- Thread starter wood4heat
- Start date
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manual
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey Space, how about something I could plug into my lighter and keep the oil warm on the way to the woods.
warming up your saw by letting it idle is a waste of time and fuel. Best way to warm up a saw or any engine and reaching the point of good operating temperature is to put it to work.
Like many have said before, start the saw, few blips to clear the smoke (rich mix)and put it in the wood.
Like many have said before, start the saw, few blips to clear the smoke (rich mix)and put it in the wood.
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You forgot to break wind (preferably twice), and hawk a solid loogey up against a nearby tree!
here ya go ! http://www.ultimatepizzabag.com/heating_element.htm
Pop it over ya bar oil container and you can even have another for your saw!
Jonsered2095
ArboristSite Guru
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
well I do believe in warming them up,,,,
it doesnt matter what it is,,,, before I go full throttle on my saws especially the 70+ CC's and larger oh,,, and the 044 with catalytic muffler,,,, I do warm them up usually about 30 to 45 seconds @ between 1/4 & 1/2 throttle in the warm months,, usually a bit longer in the winter months 1 - 1 1/2 minutes Maybe,,,,,, I warmed up my 066 wearing an Oregon reduced weight 36" B/C real good before I stuck it in this Two year downed heritage oak for 4 cuts yesterday that we had to haul off ,,,,,, that is cut # 1!!! a previous wood butcher had given up on the job and left a mess!!!!!
it doesnt matter what it is,,,, before I go full throttle on my saws especially the 70+ CC's and larger oh,,, and the 044 with catalytic muffler,,,, I do warm them up usually about 30 to 45 seconds @ between 1/4 & 1/2 throttle in the warm months,, usually a bit longer in the winter months 1 - 1 1/2 minutes Maybe,,,,,, I warmed up my 066 wearing an Oregon reduced weight 36" B/C real good before I stuck it in this Two year downed heritage oak for 4 cuts yesterday that we had to haul off ,,,,,, that is cut # 1!!! a previous wood butcher had given up on the job and left a mess!!!!!
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:bang:
Now you got me all warmed up:bang: You said ford made the best axles in post #97 like you said it has dana 60s well my chevy has dana's in it, also for that year (I think) it should have a NP 205 t-case also? Same in my chevy, I mud run way to much, been with ford freaks chevy freaks and even crazy dodge people and havent found the best truck yet, cuz they dont make one....yes my mud truck has a dodge dana 60 and yes has a chevy 14 bolt, NP 205 t case. 5.13 gears posi frount and rear, 44" boggers and a nice running small block making in the range of 535hp.
I just wanted to say my point that fords and chevys and even dodges are the best some where and really bad some where else. I must say my old 69 chevy with a 396 and 4 speed granny would be very fun to hook up to you.
Now you got me all warmed up:bang: You said ford made the best axles in post #97 like you said it has dana 60s well my chevy has dana's in it, also for that year (I think) it should have a NP 205 t-case also? Same in my chevy, I mud run way to much, been with ford freaks chevy freaks and even crazy dodge people and havent found the best truck yet, cuz they dont make one....yes my mud truck has a dodge dana 60 and yes has a chevy 14 bolt, NP 205 t case. 5.13 gears posi frount and rear, 44" boggers and a nice running small block making in the range of 535hp.
I just wanted to say my point that fords and chevys and even dodges are the best some where and really bad some where else. I must say my old 69 chevy with a 396 and 4 speed granny would be very fun to hook up to you.
The pissing contest
Are ya gonna warm up that 390 before it get's slithered backwards?
If the 396 chev can't do it, then I get the old 74 DODGE dump out.
383, 4spd, 4wheel, dually rear. 3 tons of american pride.
Axles? The stock D44 up front, but a D70 in the rear.
The other fella said it right. It don't matter who made it, if it will haul from point A to point B, and get your sore behind back to point A then it is good.
I would love to haul wood with a Mercedes!
Unimog, that is.....
-Pat
Are ya gonna warm up that 390 before it get's slithered backwards?
If the 396 chev can't do it, then I get the old 74 DODGE dump out.
383, 4spd, 4wheel, dually rear. 3 tons of american pride.
Axles? The stock D44 up front, but a D70 in the rear.
The other fella said it right. It don't matter who made it, if it will haul from point A to point B, and get your sore behind back to point A then it is good.
I would love to haul wood with a Mercedes!
Unimog, that is.....
-Pat
SawTroll
Information Collector
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
My bad,,, Niko good catch,,,, I meant one of my 044's but I finally took that mufflers extra parts and put them in the scrap bin!!!!!
I guess like most of you after starting a saw I let it idle for maybe 10-15 seconds then blip the trigger to clear it out and go to work. I take it easy the first cut if I remember to. I rarely cut in weather below freezing so I am no expert but my saw guy seems to think my saws are well maintained and run strong. BTW I run Opti 2 or Stihl Ultra oil and Stihl Bio Plus chain oil.
Oh, and a 65 Shelby GT350 Mustang only came with a 289. Never with a big block. The 65 Shelby Cobra had the 427. I've owned 2 Shelby Mustangs in the past. Sigh!!
Oh, and a 65 Shelby GT350 Mustang only came with a 289. Never with a big block. The 65 Shelby Cobra had the 427. I've owned 2 Shelby Mustangs in the past. Sigh!!
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After a few seconds of cold idling, I generally hold them at a fast idle for 10 - 20 seconds. That would mean about 3000 - 4000 rpm - enough to get the chain spinning and oil flowing. I think that this is the best trade off between getting them warmed up quickly, and running in to potential rapid expansion problems. It also lets me check the oiler - the chain should be visibly flinging oil after 10 seconds. Big saws (880, 090) get warmed up more thoroughly, as do old saws. Smaller stuff gets put to work quite quickly.
Saws aren't like cars - as long as the cylinder and piston are hot, then you're good to go with a saw. That doesn't take long on the average saw.
Saws aren't like cars - as long as the cylinder and piston are hot, then you're good to go with a saw. That doesn't take long on the average saw.
flyinghunter
ArboristSite Member
I always let any engine warm up before putting it to work especially two strokes.
I once watched a guy start up a YZ250 from cold and procede to do a burnout, as soon as he got to top gear with the back tyre smokin real good the bike just died and stopped. I laughed like hell at his look of bewilderment when he couldn't kick it over - seized solid, he put it back on his ute and went home..................... what an idiot.
I once watched a guy start up a YZ250 from cold and procede to do a burnout, as soon as he got to top gear with the back tyre smokin real good the bike just died and stopped. I laughed like hell at his look of bewilderment when he couldn't kick it over - seized solid, he put it back on his ute and went home..................... what an idiot.
spacemule
The Peanut Gallery
Sounds more likely that he had straight gas or an air leak.
2000ssm6
Stihl User
You don't think a cold 2 smoker will seize when pinned?
spacemule
The Peanut Gallery
Probably, but pinning one and smoking tires is abusing it whether it's warmed up or not.
2000ssm6
Stihl User
