who warms up their saws?

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I four corner scuffed a 372 piston but that was with pipe and winter time so really no comparison. I think a new cylinder and piston is a little more likely to tighten up than one with lots of hours on it. It is a real concern on aircraft engines but they also have to get oil temp up before giving full throttle so they have to spend a fair bit of time diddling around in sub zero weather and do have to take precautions on long power off descents not to cold squeeze pistons. My feeling is there are better odds of good than bad in a bit of warmup time for cold weather.
Is there any advice about warm up in the saw manuals?
 
Yeah it takes nearly 15 min to warm up my lycoming 540 in winter about 10 in summer otherwise it'll go over redline on oil pressure. In a descent its cracking the cylinder ya need to worry about but thats not usually an issue- just keep some power on.
 
Warm the darn thing up woulda.

Cold Seizure, Four Corner Seizure; Basically the same thing.

The piston heats up and expands at a rate greater than that of the cylinder walls, and if you go nuts on a motor, especially a 2 stroke, before the motor is heated up, you risk the chance of sticking the piston to the cylinder wall.

Chainsaws, most anyway, have relatively small motors which heat up quickly, so most guys get away with the "blip it and rip it" mentality.

In the snowmobile community, where I spend a lot of time, cold seizures are very common, especially among new riders. Or those who have recently installed a set of forged pistons in their ride.

Take a few moments to let your saw warm up, take a leak, take a drink, whatever. You saw will last longer and cut with more power longer.

BTW, motor lubrication at idle is the same as at full throttle in a motor that is running an oil/gas premix. Your ratio never changes. 50:1, or whatever you run.

Jerry C
 
Cold Seizure, Four Corner Seizure; Basically the same thing.

The piston heats up and expands at a rate greater than that of the cylinder walls, and if you go nuts on a motor, especially a 2 stroke, before the motor is heated up, you risk the chance of sticking the piston to the cylinder wall.

Chainsaws, most anyway, have relatively small motors which heat up quickly, so most guys get away with the "blip it and rip it" mentality.

In the snowmobile community, where I spend a lot of time, cold seizures are very common, especially among new riders. Or those who have recently installed a set of forged pistons in their ride.

Take a few moments to let your saw warm up, take a leak, take a drink, whatever. You saw will last longer and cut with more power longer.

BTW, motor lubrication at idle is the same as at full throttle in a motor that is running an oil/gas premix. Your ratio never changes. 50:1, or whatever you run.

Jerry C

I was trying to figure out why a 2 stroke would lubricate better at high rpm also. Only thing that made sense to me was that at high rpm you should be getting more fuel therefore more oil but you're also increasing the loads on the motor so I don't see the benefit. Could it be old Chevy V8 thinking, they dont lubricate at low rpm.

I am surprised how many people here think warming up a saw is a waste of time. I thought it was only the weekend warrior types that didn't know any better.
 
I was trying to figure out why a 2 stroke would lubricate better at high rpm also. Only thing that made sense to me was that at high rpm you should be getting more fuel therefore more oil but you're also increasing the loads on the motor so I don't see the benefit. Could it be old Chevy V8 thinking, they dont lubricate at low rpm.

b]I am surprised how many people here think warming up a saw is a waste of time. I thought it was only the weekend warrior types that didn't know any better.[/b]

To me it seems there are plenty of ppl who just drive/use their vehicles/machines and ignore the maintenance and then cry about big repair bills when things break...
 
I am gonna do what the guy that has made a living off of chain saws for the last 20-30 years.

What did he do?

I used to build motors for Motocross bikes and I could quickly tell which were warmed up and which weren't by looking at the intake side of the piston. On bikes that hadn't been warmed up the intake side of the piston was polished smooth from running without lubrication. On bikes that were the pistons still looked new.
 
:bang:

Now you got me all warmed up:bang: You said ford made the best axles in post #97 like you said it has dana 60s well my chevy has dana's in it, also for that year (I think) it should have a NP 205 t-case also? Same in my chevy, I mud run way to much, been with ford freaks chevy freaks and even crazy dodge people and havent found the best truck yet, cuz they dont make one....yes my mud truck has a dodge dana 60 and yes has a chevy 14 bolt, NP 205 t case. 5.13 gears posi frount and rear, 44" boggers and a nice running small block making in the range of 535hp.

I just wanted to say my point that fords and chevys and even dodges are the best some where and really bad some where else. I must say my old 69 chevy with a 396 and 4 speed granny would be very fun to hook up to you.

Is that the one that you modded lol any way I have a high test chain!
 
Are ya gonna warm up that 390 before it get's slithered backwards? :laugh:
If the 396 chev can't do it, then I get the old 74 DODGE dump out.
383, 4spd, 4wheel, dually rear. 3 tons of american pride.
Axles? The stock D44 up front, but a D70 in the rear. :D

The other fella said it right. It don't matter who made it, if it will haul from point A to point B, and get your sore behind back to point A then it is good.

I would love to haul wood with a Mercedes! :blob2:
Unimog, that is.....:D :D

-Pat
Ok bring it but one ton against 3/4 ton hmm well
I will hook up the r model mack!
 

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