Who's "fixed" a "monster" maul?

[Soilarch]

It's a pretty straight forward design. But I wondered if any of you have had to fix your generic monster maul? Mine's going the way of dinosaur pretty quick.

Thought I'd shave some weight off the head, add 4-6" to the handle. Figure I'll either try to find some thicker pipe for the handle or make a collar/sleeve like contraption for the first 10" of the handle. Then add a small bead on the bottom of the handle to help me 'feel' where the point of the head is. Right now I just have a 1/4" auger bit slid under the rubber sleeve.

Anyone done this before and learned what will and won't hold?

 

[stihl sawing]

Mine works good just like it is, How much weight you planning on shaving off the head. I would think that's how it worked so well is the weight. Adding more length is gonna make it harder to pick up to swing. But if you lighten up the head then it will not be as hard to swing. I dunno it might make a dandy maul after the mods.

 

[DWittenbreder]

monster maul

I broke the weld that holds the handle to the splitting head.

 

[Soilarch]

My weld is in the process of breaking. It's cracked along the bottom 1/3 of the circumference. Wouldn't have noticed if it hadn't flaked off the paint. Shiny metal tends to stick out on an all red tool.

I agree with you stihl sawing. Don't plan on taking more than what I would guess is 2lbs worth. Still leaves it at 12lbs and the longer handle should bring everything back. Most the weight is coming off by flattening the top. I hate using wedges with this thing, but it's easier than walking back to get the 8#. (You've got about 1" of flat steel...the rest is tapered.)


Was not impressed with it till I learned to modify my swing and regain some velocity. The guys who say you can just "drop" aren't splitting green red oaks and hickories. (Oak I worked on today averaged right under 36" rounds. Biggest one under the main crotch went 43X37X15. Never could bust some of the centers even after working my way around the edges.)


Either way, it's gonna need fixed.

 

[stihl sawing]

the best way to use it is raise it straight above your head and bring it down with force. It will not split a big round by just dropping it. Either way you use it , It's a workout.lol

 

[darren_nh]

I have a pipe cap at the end of my handle to know where the end is. Works great.

 

[coog]

I have a pipe cap at the end of my handle to know where the end is. Works great.

I'm curious how you did this; a real Sotz MM is not round at the bottom (at least mine aren't).
I broke the weld at the head,too.I think probably from using wedges.

 

[darren_nh]

I'm curious how you did this; a real Sotz MM is not round at the bottom (at least mine aren't).
I broke the weld at the head,too.I think probably from using wedges.

My monster maul was made custom for me by my father. The handle is a piece of pipe crimped into an oval where it is held, and the head is about 15 pounds. The end of the pipe is round, threaded and capped.

 

[coog]

My monster maul was made custom for me by my father. The handle is a piece of pipe crimped into an oval where it is held, and the head is about 15 pounds. The end of the pipe is round, threaded and capped.

Cool.Can he make more? People ask me about mine all the time.I think that the cap on the end would be handy.

 

[darren_nh]

Cool.Can he make more? People ask me about mine all the time.I think that the cap on the end would be handy.

I am sure he could, but the cost of the steel for the head and his time to fabricate would not be competitive with the store bought versions.

It is nice to have one that is made for you. My handle is longer than the store bought versions, and as far I can tell nobody makes one with a head that heavy. It is a workout and is not made for splitting all day (all though I have done that with it). It is mostly used now to split large rounds into manageable pieces for the splitter.

 

[coog]

I am sure he could, but the cost of the steel for the head and his time to fabricate would not be competitive with the store bought versions.

It is nice to have one that is made for you. My handle is longer than the store bought versions, and as far I can tell nobody makes one with a head that heavy. It is a workout and is not made for splitting all day (all though I have done that with it). It is mostly used now to split large rounds into manageable pieces for the splitter.

I've never found a store model worth a hoot.They are always too short,too light and they don't crimp the handle.Very hard to hold on to a round pipe when slamming it into a round.I bought mine from Sotz through an ad in Country Journal.

 

[motoroilmccall]

Wish I had pics of the one I made... Piece of scrap steel milled to a wedge, then drilled through, weighed just under 14lbs. Then I took a piece of 1" DOM .375 Wall tubing, put some knurling in the handle for some grip, and put it THROUGH the head. Then welded both the top and bottom of the tube/head seam, then welded a piece of 1.5"x.25" wall tubing on the end, it was about .75" long, and that was the end (I hung everything, so thats what it hung from).

The knurling worked pretty good for a while, but rubbed through gloves. I ended up dipping it in rubber, which was a bad idea, because it started giving me some monster blisters.

 

[darren_nh]

Cool.Can he make more? People ask me about mine all the time.I think that the cap on the end would be handy.

Wife got a new scale for Ebay, so I thought I would weigh the maul. In case you were wondering, 18 lbs.

 

[AOD]

I welded more weight onto my Monster Maul because it wasn't enough of a challenge to pick up and use. I don't really use it for splitting as much as just beating the crap out of stuff.