bkvanbek
ArboristSite Member
I have an Echo CS-520. I am on my third chain and original bar. On bigger trees it cuts curved, when cutting down it goes to the left. If I force it to go straight, it does not cut.
Why?
Why?
Why does my saw cut curved?
- Thread starter bkvanbek
- Start date
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Bar bent, rails worn. wrong size chain. un even filing of teeth or rakers.
handling of the saw.
handling of the saw.
bkvanbek
ArboristSite Member
How do I narrow it down?
ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
. bar rails are worn out of square
Or 50 gauge chain in a .58 bar? or 58 in a 63.
Or 50 gauge chain in a .58 bar? or 58 in a 63.
Last edited:
PB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Flip your bar.
PB
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bkvanbek
ArboristSite Member
I have flipped the bar. I have no idea about the chain or bar gauge.
MS460WOODCHUCK
Addicted to ArboristSite
I had a poulan pro 380 did the same thing right off of the shelf. took a new bar to fix it. Studied the original bar for defects and could not find one. Stihl does'nt make any sense.
PB
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you have flipped your bar and it continues to cut left, you are probably sharpening it wrong. It is pretty common, it is hard to sharpen both the left and right cutters accurately. Right handers do one side better than lefties, and it takes practice to get it right. I would invest in a filing guide if you don't have one already. Start with a new chain as well. Welcome to AS by the way.
Tighten the chain. Are you (properly!) re-tightening the chain after you run a new chain through a couple of cuts? While chains don't 'stretch', the roller bearings settle in when they are run.
How often have you thrown the chain off the bar?
You say the saw cuts to the left - did it cut to the right before you flipped the bar?
Maybe you :censored: up your bar at some point.
How often have you thrown the chain off the bar?
You say the saw cuts to the left - did it cut to the right before you flipped the bar?
Maybe you :censored: up your bar at some point.
ciscoguy01
Addicted to ArboristSite
File
Yea dude, if your running with a new chain right off the bat. How old is your bar? Did you make sure like Jeep said your running 050 in an 050 bar. I've run 050 in an 058 bar and never had an issue, but that's not always the case... If your bar has some wear, grab a file and file the outer edges of the bar, top and bottom. Alsom make sure you clean out your rails to make sure the chain isn't riding a bit high. I'd replace it anyways. A GB CN40 is only like $30 at most and is a much better bar. Let us know what fixes it eh?
Yea dude, if your running with a new chain right off the bat. How old is your bar? Did you make sure like Jeep said your running 050 in an 050 bar. I've run 050 in an 058 bar and never had an issue, but that's not always the case... If your bar has some wear, grab a file and file the outer edges of the bar, top and bottom. Alsom make sure you clean out your rails to make sure the chain isn't riding a bit high. I'd replace it anyways. A GB CN40 is only like $30 at most and is a much better bar. Let us know what fixes it eh?
bkvanbek
ArboristSite Member
I have not sharpened any of the three chains. I don't know the gauge of the chains or bar. I guess I will get a new bar.
Cisco, Can we getting a bigger picture?
Cisco, Can we getting a bigger picture?
How close to the ground are you cutting down trees? From your description, it sounds to me like the right hand cutters are being dulled more than the left. That, usually, being the first cut on a tree, all cuts after that will tend to cut to the left.
bkvanbek
ArboristSite Member
It always cuts left.
cuttinscott
Addicted to ArboristSite
ttiwwp
this thread is worthless without pics
Scott
this thread is worthless without pics
Scott
From day one? New saw? cuttinscott is right, you do need to help us out a little. Echos are not notorious, to my knowledge, for just "cutting left".
If you are going to buy a new bar , go ahead and replace the chains.
bkvanbek
ArboristSite Member
What would you want a picture of.... Cisco in a bikini?
J_Ashley
ArboristSite Operative
Sounds like you need to take a trip to the dealer... You said this is the first bar and third chain. I'm assuming you bought the saw new, so this is the original bar for the saw. Also, did you buy your extra chains at the dealer? If you can give us a few more details I'm sure we'll get it figured out.
But, I'd advise you go to the dealer and have the chains ground in case they're worn or sharpend more on one side or the other. Then, have your bar checked out. It may need to be dressed - where they grind the top and bottom edges of the bar where the chain runs to 'flatten' this surface, and remove any burrs from normal wear. This will make sure the cutters are both flat as you try to cut, and keep one side from cutting more than the other side. As the service manager to go over with you what you should be doing when you're changing or sharpening chains.
And last thing I'd do at the dealer, is pick up a file kit for your chains. This will save you some coin the next time your chains get dull, and it usually only takes a minute to touch-up the chain. Once you get this down you'll find yourself chainging chains less, and this means less down-time changing and adjusting the bar/chain.
Hopefully this helps, but if there's anything else, feel free to ask. Welcome to the site.
But, I'd advise you go to the dealer and have the chains ground in case they're worn or sharpend more on one side or the other. Then, have your bar checked out. It may need to be dressed - where they grind the top and bottom edges of the bar where the chain runs to 'flatten' this surface, and remove any burrs from normal wear. This will make sure the cutters are both flat as you try to cut, and keep one side from cutting more than the other side. As the service manager to go over with you what you should be doing when you're changing or sharpening chains.
And last thing I'd do at the dealer, is pick up a file kit for your chains. This will save you some coin the next time your chains get dull, and it usually only takes a minute to touch-up the chain. Once you get this down you'll find yourself chainging chains less, and this means less down-time changing and adjusting the bar/chain.
Hopefully this helps, but if there's anything else, feel free to ask. Welcome to the site.
bkvanbek
ArboristSite Member
I only noticed the curved cut with the last chain, I got at Menards, I think an Oregon. None the chains have been sharpened. But I have filed the bar to remove the burrs.
Norwegian Wood
ArboristSite Operative
Maybe sound stupid but are there any difference in cutting from top to bottom or bottom to top?
