Why I Don't File
- Thread starter oakman
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Stihl088stock
ArboristSite Guru
Yep
I'll agree with you there, I've found that grinding often leaves a side burr. What are we to do?
I'll agree with you there, I've found that grinding often leaves a side burr. What are we to do?
ground tooth, frontal view. these same results can be had with a number of rotary tools. in the bush, i carry a ryobi 18volt cordless cutout tool, equipped with the appropriate stone. one charge on the battery will last for a couple days worth of grinding. if you rock it out accidently, you can regrind it in no time, and no effort.
Fish
Tree Freak
So when are you going to post the pic of the sharp one?
Why I Don't Care
My pal DB told me that after he crash landed from this 38 MPH miscalculation, he almost wanted to file and take pictures of chains....but after a few days in the hospital he finally came to his senses and decided to get on with life.
My pal DB told me that after he crash landed from this 38 MPH miscalculation, he almost wanted to file and take pictures of chains....but after a few days in the hospital he finally came to his senses and decided to get on with life.
Rockysquirrel,
yes i do, i whip out my pocket die grinder and quickly and effortlessly restore my chain to razor sharpness. and yes i put extra pressure on the filed tooth to emphasize my point. however, the results are basically the same. let's see a pic of your best filed cutter tooth and we'll compare it with the rotary ground one. you can file it out in the woods, on the bench, or anywhere else you care to. and i agree to disagree.
yes i do, i whip out my pocket die grinder and quickly and effortlessly restore my chain to razor sharpness. and yes i put extra pressure on the filed tooth to emphasize my point. however, the results are basically the same. let's see a pic of your best filed cutter tooth and we'll compare it with the rotary ground one. you can file it out in the woods, on the bench, or anywhere else you care to. and i agree to disagree.
John in MA
Addicted to ArboristSite
Why do the filing shots remind me of Gypo's iced chain?
Dave
ArboristSite Guru
I use that thing on the end of the file (the handle) to knock the burr off- that would take a lot of the contrast out of those two pics.
Stumper
One Man Band
I'm with Brian! Your filing stinks. The amount of pressure used AND maintaining proper angles are big factors in the results obtained. The burrs that are visible are not a very big deal-a proper light finishing stroke would remove them. The big gouge in the face of the tooth is UGLY. Personally I can't force myself to file that badly.
There is a lot to this whole sharpening thing. With some steels ( I'm talking knife and broadhead blades now) it is possible to obtain a razor edge with nothing but a file,. On other steels a hone is necessary for a hair cutting edge-a file will get them sharp but not shaving. There is no doubt that the smoother/finer razor edge is technically sharper but which cuts better? That depends upon application and material. If pushing straight into the cut (like shaving) the finer the edge the better BUT if the edge is being drawn through the material at an angle, micro-serrations of a filed edge can be superior(particularly for fibrous or dense materials)! Chainsaw teeth do some of both. Isn't it interesting that timed-cut competitors depend upon meticulously hand filed chains for the fastest possible cuts?
There is a lot to this whole sharpening thing. With some steels ( I'm talking knife and broadhead blades now) it is possible to obtain a razor edge with nothing but a file,. On other steels a hone is necessary for a hair cutting edge-a file will get them sharp but not shaving. There is no doubt that the smoother/finer razor edge is technically sharper but which cuts better? That depends upon application and material. If pushing straight into the cut (like shaving) the finer the edge the better BUT if the edge is being drawn through the material at an angle, micro-serrations of a filed edge can be superior(particularly for fibrous or dense materials)! Chainsaw teeth do some of both. Isn't it interesting that timed-cut competitors depend upon meticulously hand filed chains for the fastest possible cuts?
Ryan Willock
Addicted to ArboristSite
Why the semi-chisel??? I have to agree with Brian, I find that I can sharpen a chain much better with a file than with a grinder. I touch up my chains every 1-2 tanks and check my depth gauges every 4 tanks.
eyolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Normally the tone on this forum is pretty civil. What happened?
I'm not an accomplished filer by any means, but even I know enough to say that filing takes some time and attention to learn. I cheat: I use a grandberg jig about every other or at least every third filing, and every time I rock out a chain. In between I just follow the angles from before.
I get good results; I know I can do as well as any of the local grinder-hack shops do, and can make at least one look like an idiot. I think learning to get the best out of a grinder, any kind, probably takes a little effort too, so maybe oakman has spent his effort learning to use the litle grinder effectively. His choice, I think.
As far a changing a chain out in the field, it aint that bad, and you don't need air. I keep a few tools in the truck, including an old windshield snow brush with a broken handle, a can of wd-40 and a rag. I brush the crud away from the gas and oil caps, and wipe clean. Same with cleaning under the clutch cover...just use the wd-40 to dislodge any particles you can't get with the brush. It really only takes a minute.
file
Looks like you are using a very coarse file and too much pressure.
A file will do just as good a job, but it is an art and you must get the feel for it.
Looks like you are using a very coarse file and too much pressure.
A file will do just as good a job, but it is an art and you must get the feel for it.
StIhL MaGnUm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oakman,
I don't see atleast from those pics how that chain will self feed through the wood without applying alot of pressure,the tooth does'nt really have any hook or side plate angle either on the tooth sharpened by the grinder or the file...I personally don't think you can beat freehand filing a chain as long as you have the right type of file and not one thats too aggresive,and have taken the time to learn how to do it correctly,it took me almost 3 years to get real good at freehand filing and have learned alot from reading here,I would suggest you practice on some old chains you may have..
Later Rob.
I don't see atleast from those pics how that chain will self feed through the wood without applying alot of pressure,the tooth does'nt really have any hook or side plate angle either on the tooth sharpened by the grinder or the file...I personally don't think you can beat freehand filing a chain as long as you have the right type of file and not one thats too aggresive,and have taken the time to learn how to do it correctly,it took me almost 3 years to get real good at freehand filing and have learned alot from reading here,I would suggest you practice on some old chains you may have..
Later Rob.
Sharpening
Does anyone else sharpen chain from the outside in? In other words, opposite of the way oakman's picture depicts? -pushing the file into the tooth the same way a chip would enter? I taught myself to file that way, and always maintain a sharp chain. There are no burrs that way. I also like the die-grinder approach as well.
Joe
Does anyone else sharpen chain from the outside in? In other words, opposite of the way oakman's picture depicts? -pushing the file into the tooth the same way a chip would enter? I taught myself to file that way, and always maintain a sharp chain. There are no burrs that way. I also like the die-grinder approach as well.
Joe
tony marks
Addicted to ArboristSite
To the fellow who ask what guide works best. They can all do alrite,but the most practical form is the roller guide. It sets on the chain and all u have to do is keep the angle of the stroke rite. The rest is done by the roller guide. For me the angles would really get outa whack.
Also this is quicker than the clamp on guide.
Also this is quicker than the clamp on guide.
Kneejerk Bombas
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This could have been a good thread if oakman wasn't biased, and had some real examples. It looks like he put the wrong angles on the cutter done with a file and too much pressure on the file. Most of those microscopic pieces aren't even attached and will brush off in the first nano second of contact with wood. Also by putting less pressure on the file on the last strokes, you can get a smooth finish.
What he didn't show was all the pretty colors the cutter has, after the highschool kid at the hardware store grinds off a quarter inch of metal in one fast, hard grind.
What he didn't show was all the pretty colors the cutter has, after the highschool kid at the hardware store grinds off a quarter inch of metal in one fast, hard grind.
My2cents
ArboristSite Operative
All the file angles aside, Is it a fact that a finely filed tooth is superior to a slightly course serated tooth. I would like to see a comparson of the teeth after 2 cuts thru a log. I believe you will find the edge very different.
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