The pump got here today so hope to check it out this evening I have a feeling the seals are bad and not able to create a vacuum to suck the gas into the carb I do have a set of new seals here if needed and a tube of dirko... if you search stihl dirko on flea bay looks like you would pay $20 some dollars a tube for it but if you just search dirko you will see they also use it on VW's and it is half the price of what stihl sellers sell it for hope ot see this thing run this week end although the seal on the fly wheel side looks like a problem to get out
Why no gas to carb? MS260
- Thread starter roccus
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Can you provide the VW part number for Dirko HT? It seems to be hard to find unless from a Stihl dealer. When I searched I didn't see the VW reference.
Let us know how this works out... Photos would be a good help including any improvised tooling. I may be looking at seals on 2 or 3 of these.
Steve this is why I had said just do a search on the word dirko here is the link to where I got my tube.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/262289474038?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I connected my new pump up and nothing zero zip will not build pressure will not get any vacuum first I put a bit of soapy water in the flywheel side seal and bubbles galore... I don't have a clue how I will get that seal out I can't even pass an exacto knife blade past it never mind a modded screwdriver to hook onto it to pull it out.... is there a secret tip to get this seal out???
The seals pop out quite easily with a screwdriver. First tap the old seal downward in the bore about 1/16" to break it free, then just insert the screwdriver down through the nitrile/rubber part of the seal, pry down on the handle but rest the shaft on a small block of wood to prevent damage to the mag case. Just make sure the screwdriver tip does not cut into the opposite side of the seal bore.
Thanks will try this but not so sure I can get a screwdriver bast the rubber seal as I can't even get an exacto knife blade past it.. I had read here about tapping them down but was not sure how far down I could go with it before hitting the bearing.... this is the fly wheel side the tiny one that sits down deep in the well of the crank case
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
I can see what you are saying. However, the clearance between the crank and the seal edge is so small I can't see getting a reasonable size screwdriver in there... And if you find a screwdriver small enough to fit it would likely bend before it was able to exert enough force to pop out the seal. Photos of your tools (or screwdriver) would help.
I do this on 026 and MS 260 saws all the time, believe me it will work, it does not take a large screwdriver but a bit of grinding in the right places really helps. No accurate number I have changed out on saws this size but sure it exceeds a dozen or more saws by now. I have modified my screwdriver a few times over the years but a fairly thin blade ground down from a 1/4' slot screwdriver is all I use now.
Thanks pioneer I figured it out (keep in mind this is first time I have worked on one of these and this is a parts saw so it has never run for me) as I was looking at what I thought was the seal I took the new replacement seal out of the packet and was looking at it then I saw the inside diameter of the seal look a lot smaller than the diameter the crank shaft end where the seal would sit so I got my lighted magnifier to have a better look and determined I was not looking at the seal down in the hole on the end of the crank but it is the bearing!!! The seal was not there in the first place!! lol
Well you are making headway, at least now you know what the seal looks like and all you now need to do is get it in straight and slightly below flush with the seal bore.
oh oh I went down with it till it bottomed out looked like it had to go down to clear the bottom of the flywheel... did I screw it up??
It does have to go down a lil bit but not all the way down, just hope the metal seal edge of the housing is not hitting the bearing. When in correctly there is usually close to 1/8" between the seal and the bearing. You may still be ok, just turn the crank slowly and feel if the bearing is dragging.
Well there is no question it is agaonst the bearing as I drove it in till it bottomed out but... wouldn't the edge of the seal be resting against the outer race of the bearing? And does the out bearing race spin?? I am thinking the out race is pressed into the crank case housing and should not spin... no?
The race should not spin and most likely the metal part of the seal is not touching the ball bearings, I will have to pull out a parts carcass tomorrow and check to see. The seal on the flywheel side is quite small but really can`t picture just how the seal and bearing reference each other.
OK thanks pioneer I have a dish for internet it is about to go down we are in the middle of a small blizzard here the the big dig out tomorrow morning I'll check back later in day tomorrow have a great evening ..... I'd rather be doing this tomorrow lol
Have a big weather event here as well though its high winds and slashing rain, no snow but loss of electrical is always a threat.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Will the balls in the bearing hit and rub on the rubber seal lip?
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,213
- Reaction score
- 25,100
If he is lucky.....
No, not on the 026 anyway and after looking closely down the bore I don`t think the steel rim of the seal will contact the ball bearings, got lucky with this one. On other saws with different diameter seals and bearings there is always a possibility.
Ohh Harley, you ole dawg....LOL
ROFL lol that it saws and feel goods!!!!
