Wood Beetle to Woodbug...

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I went to England just before xmas. Almost all the cars were subcompacts. The Focus is there, but it's among the larger. There are a few Range Rovers, most driven by the horsey types, some of whom pull trailers. There were small vans, 2 doors, and 4 doors and hatchbacks. Many are diesel and all ran fine. Even Mercedes has small stuff, including a scaled down miinivan.

The talk about Diesel being hard to build, expensive, noisey is just BS from "our" car companies. Chevy and Ford are selling tiny, successful Diesels everywhere but here. I expect our demand is limited, but it would improve if they had the little cars here! Trouble id, they make the big bucks on the gas guzzlers. But it's gonna change!

BTW, gas in the UK is close to $9/g!
 
Its going to be $4.00 here by summer

Everything I am reading says the change to the summer blend coupled with the increased demand that summer brings will raise the prices.

Diesel engines are very efficient. Ive got a Kubota tractor that runs forever on 5 gallons. They can be made to be very clean running. We are being taken for a ride by the politicians, the oil companies and the car companies.
 
$9 ?? Holeeey crap!

more pics: The trailer loaded up on the ridge is some property i have for sale, so i figured i would get all the cedars off of it i could. I am lucky that i can get to most of them on a 46 ac tract because of old logging/wheeler trails.
RD
 
Question and suggestion

Thanks for the photos MotorSeven. If you would, please, I would like to see a closeup of how the nose of the saw fits in the guide of the woodbug. Is it, as it appears, just stuck between two pieces of steel, or is there an additional part meant to prevent damage to the chain?

A closeup of the top end of the bar showing how the slide attaches would be nice too.

Regarding your recent adventure with the hungup cedar : I use a two ton come-a-long when that happens to me. I use a conveniently placed tree or stump for an anchor, and drag the bottom of my hangup toward it. This is much safer than the method you describe - outrunning the falling tree while shutting down a running saw. After using the saw overhead, if I understood that. I use two chains with the hand winch, each with two hooks. This allows setup to nearly any length. Rope will not do - it stretches, which prevents progress, and it also breaks. For the those who might not know, I should mention that when a rope under tension breaks, it recoils toward the operator, and also the load, with man-killing force. This may be why an anchor is often called a deadman. Don't use rope with a winch, use cable and chain.

Thanks again.
Frosted Flake
 
Frost, you are 100% right, i was pushing the envelope by not having the right equipment. Heck i haven't even got my saw chaps yet(I know I know, y'all don't yell at me, they are on order). Thanks for the info. This is the second time i have had the need for a quality come-a-long. 2 weeks ago i had to get a trac back on my dozer(for the first time) and ended up using a 3" ratchet strap. It worked, but a come-a-long is on the list. I already have alot of chain & a couple of loggers type cable loops. I haven't done that much "logging", just an occasional tree here or there & never had one hang quite like that one did. Since i am going to cut over 250 trees for the house, i guess i am hitting the apex of the learning curve a little too fast. Thanks for the input
RD
 
The bar tip has a spot weld on it on both sides which was filed to fit into the channel on the mill.
 
That was quick.

Thanks a third time, Motorseven.

Those pics clear up most of my questions about the woodbug. It looks like a very nice design. I may (don't tell anyone) use some of it's features later.
 
The bar tip has a spot weld on it on both sides which was filed to fit into the channel on the mill.

You sure?
The pic really looks like a small square piece of mild steel flatbar attached by a small weld on each end. That is how I would make it anyway.

Thanks for the pics. Also shows a tie welded between the track angle irons to keep the gap from varying.
 
Yep Gordie, you are right.
Try this: http://gallery.mac.com/lkgage#100166

WOW! Those pics is sure appreciated. Good detail. You must have a steady hand to be able to take such clear shots. Thank you. :)

Yes, the small slice of flatbar is visible welded to the bar tip. That would be a way to keep welding heat down to a minimum in the area of the sprocket / bearing.

Did you add the nut welded to the top rail to keep the carriage from running off on that end? Looks like it might be a modification and is a good idea from what I can see.

Thanks again for the pictures. :cheers:
 
Did you add the nut welded to the top rail to keep the carriage from running off on that end? Looks like it might be a modification and is a good idea from what I can see.

That's the way it came. I ordered the 14"? extension when I bought the outfit. Yes, it does catch the table when you bring it back.

You are very welcome!
 
Nice pic's VT....milling on a golf course? ;)



Gord, you are correct, i never really looked that close, it is a small piece of flat bar. I don't see why a spot would't work as long as it cooled down between layers. When i replace my bar, i'll give it a try on the old one first.
 
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I'll bet you guys know the answer to this; Is the reason that the diesels are
not showing up here partly because our epa regs. make things more difficult than over in europe?
 
No 2cy, it's our own govt kissing the automakers & oil companys backside...at our expense. Grrrr, don't get me fired up.....:mad:
RD
 
Gordie, i found my 'bug pic's, & i am going to add some better one's to it before i drop it in the mail. I think i gave my only cd copy of the video away to my bud's dad, so i will get them to make me a copy.RD

Thanks Rick,

Just checked the mail for this week and there was my package from you. I just looked at the pics and the bill of materials and it is quite a thorough and detailed set of instructions.

REP went to ya. I just looked for any post from you and used it to send REP.

You are one in a million :bowdown:
 
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No prob Gord, if i get a copy(back) of the video, i'll send it on. When you start building & need clarification on anything just ask. Also, if i were building one from scratch, i would come up with a better dimension stop. Mine tend to pop out if i am a little rough with the log & nothing is marked so i have to measure or count notches quite a bit:dizzy: . I have an aux oiler & hope to mount it soon, just have to firure out the best configuration. I bet VT has something he would change, so maybe he will chime in.......
RD
 
Yep, the stops are somewhat a problem. I do squeeze them tighter every once in a while. Now you've got me thinking about how to change them. At the end of the day, it's a pain to bend over to reset them. How about magnetizing them somehow or attaching a rare earth magnet - somehow????? Yep, now you've done it..... :confused:
 

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