Wood Mizer

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peanut

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One of the things I'll be getting when I get back and move is a mill. Does anyone have any experience with Wood Mizer? Good/bad? Worth the $?
 
One of the most respected brands, and probably the biggest in the industry. Would certainly be on my "short list", very good support as well. I was thinking about it a few years ago and had it narrowed down to either a WoodMizer or a Timberking. Both very good, the TK office is about 10 miles from mine, WoodMizer is two days UPS.

Mark
 
One of the things I'll be getting when I get back and move is a mill. Does anyone have any experience with Wood Mizer? Good/bad? Worth the $?

Woodmizer although a bit over priced, builds good sawmills. But they aren't the best in all sizes... What size mill are you thinking about?

Rob
 
Actually Wood Mizer has some great pricing on new mills now...

Consider buying a mill with hydraulic log handling I wish I had spent the extra for that...

Love my WM mill..


Mark
 
Woodmizer although a bit over priced, builds good sawmills. But they aren't the best in all sizes... What size mill are you thinking about?

Rob

In a nod to Rob, if you are looking for the best "bang for the buck" with a modest budget, you can't beat Norwood. My buddy JR has one and we've milled a nice bunch of lumber with it. When you start looking bigger, then go to my post above.

Mark
 
Woodmizer although a bit over priced, builds good sawmills. But they aren't the best in all sizes... What size mill are you thinking about?

Rob

Just the 15 nothing huge. I am slowly getting out of logging, and into building custom furniture. Going to a mill is expensive. At least in Central PA, I assume it would be where I'm moving.
 
Just the 15 nothing huge. I am slowly getting out of logging, and into building custom furniture. Going to a mill is expensive. At least in Central PA, I assume it would be where I'm moving.

I've sawn on the LT15 a bit, the LT15 is a good mill, but i like the Norwood Lumbermate 2000 better, and i do believe it's still cheaper and it "is" easier to upgrade later as you get more money...

For personal use, the Honda 13 has plenty of hp, saws very good, and is simpler. That alone keeps the mill price down so you can get other options, like the cable log loader/turner package...

Saw on one, and you will see for yourself...

Rob
 
Well, I'd love to own a mill, but when I needed it I was in a hurry to get the house up and couldn't do the milling. Now I have a little time and don't need the wood...still have big stacks in the yard. I've hired a Woodmiser to come here and cut about 30K BF alltogether, so I'm pretty familiar with them.

In shopping for myself, after watching the WM, I feel strongly that the four post heads are better than the cantilevered head. Yes, the cantilever has some advantages, but it's also a little flexible and if the blade tries to wander it can push/pull the head up and down a little.

There are an amaziing number of brands, selling everything from parts to kits to finished mills and there are always used mills around. they hold value surprisiingly well, but can be a good deal if you know their history.

Hydraulics are nice, but quite expensive. If you are sawing for yourself and don't have to worry about production rate, you can use a hill or ramps to get over having to lift logs straight up onto the bed, the worst of the handling tasks.

Norwood is nice and not too expensive, but its frame is much lighter than most of the others. It will not take having 2+ft logs dropped on it by a loader!

Don't forget you'll need a way to move logs around, like a tractor with forks or a rear carryall. And the big logs are HEAVY. Best handling is with a front end loader.

It's great fun and offbearing will really take the weight off your middle, but the investment is considerable, so at least look in to hiring. I pay $35/hr and feel it's a good deal for maybe 200BF of 4/4 wood. With beams or big 2X, the yield is better than that.

You'll want a flatbed trailer if you are hauling/stacking the wood. You'll handle it a lot, at best, so any help is good! For flooriing, I cut, hauled, stacked, hauled to kiln, hauled to mill, hauled home and carried inside. It makes the store bought stuff look less expensive, especially when you consider the 30% or so of waste to cracking, warpiing, etc.
 
We have one of the first mills (LT30 with a 14 Horse) from wood mizer. Recently repowered to a 25 horse Kohler and the thing runs better than ever. If you are cutting for yourself or cutting for grade then I would be looking for an LT40 with a log deck package and the hydraulic loader upgrade. The other hydraulics are nice, but you don't really need them unless you are cutting for volume. When you are cutting for grade or for yourself you'll find that you are rotating the log a lot to get the best results as you open the log up. Get a minimum 25 horse mill as anything less tends to bog down in the 30" logs.

As far as loading the mill, the hydraulic loaders can now be bought separately from the whole hydraulics package which is a step in the right direction. If you dont have a tractor or other loader the biggest time and energyconsumer is getting the logs up. After that, its kind of like practising zen!

These mills can easily be run with one person and are extremely well thought out and extremely safe. We paid ours off in the first two months cutting wood that used to go to slash or firewood. That means we have been cutting for free for twenty years now - i.e. don't be too concerned about the price. Mobility is also a big plus as you can move from site to site without having to remove the trailer package inbetween.

The only downside to the wood mizer is that you can get some pretty big logs on them and can over-center. this can be easily fixed by welding on some brackets for fixed outriggers on the operator side. I know you could trip on them, but I'd rather have a controlled trip than an uncontrolled over-center.

Depending on how much time I have I will probably pick up another wood-mizer ( LT40 non-hydraulic ) before the end of the summer as a purely mobile mill. I still see far too much wood around rotting that could make high quality lumber.

A good complement to the wood-mizer is a "beam -machine" and the largest saw you can handle This lets you take the bigger logs down to 30" or less by removing one side. The beam machine is only about $40.

Should you buy one - Absolutely! They may not be the least expensive, but they are definitely the most well thought out. their aftermarket support is superb.

These really are a great American product!:clap:
 
The LT15 is a great mill. Look at the LL24. It is a very good mill for the money.

Good Luck
 
One of the most respected brands, and probably the biggest in the industry. Would certainly be on my "short list", very good support as well. I was thinking about it a few years ago and had it narrowed down to either a WoodMizer or a Timberking. Both very good, the TK office is about 10 miles from mine, WoodMizer is two days UPS.

Mark

I was going the TK route when I bought my first mill and the wait was 8 weeks or two months, whichever I liked best. I drove to Ellington, MO. and bought a baker 18M. It has worked well and the support has been excellent, if I upgrade it will be a Baker.
 
Yeah, i've had my LT40 since 2001, worked the piss out of it [and me too] and haven't had to do anything except routine maintenance [adjustments and replace a belt or two]. sawed some extremely large logs on it too. just like i told a couple of guys the other day, you can buy cheaper but not any better.:cheers:
 
I wanted to do a bit of small scale custom cutting on-site for customers as well as for myself. After doing a bit of research, I opted for the Norwood LM2000 with 23hp. The simplicity of the manual mill appeals to me.
 
Hi All: I have run a Norwood LM200 for over 4 yrs./ I load it with a set of forks on my tractor//.
An above comment says that the LM2000 frame cant take a large log dropped on it off the forks---Ck out the Norwood forum and see pics of 31" logs on the mill and a post showing a dropped 20" hardwood off the forks /// The frame survived even tho the log post took a hit and bent its base./// the log knocked the carrage off the mill and on its side///--no other damage ---
replaced the post shaft---$55.00
Even if you banged up the frame you can replace it piece by piece at small $. EPA (JP)
 
Even if you banged up the frame you can replace it piece by piece at small $.

And all it will take to replace those pieces is a couple wrenches, instead of a cutting torch, welder, com-a-along and ? ...

Rob
 
Some times it is hard to tell where the Norwood forum stops and this one starts. Now I am going down to the chain saw forum and find out - what is the best chain saw.......

Run what you got.
 
Some times it is hard to tell where the Norwood forum stops and this one starts. Now I am going down to the chain saw forum and find out - what is the best chain saw.......

Run what you got.

Amen bro, now do i grab up my stihl, husky, homelite or what.....:cheers:
 
Some times it is hard to tell where the Norwood forum stops and this one starts. Now I am going down to the chain saw forum and find out - what is the best chain saw.......

Run what you got.


Did i say something here to offend you??? Or perhaps you feel that i'm lieing about something???

Rob
 
One of the things I'll be getting when I get back and move is a mill. Does anyone have any experience with Wood Mizer? Good/bad? Worth the $?

Seems like we are just getting some good comparisons.
I run a woodmizer lt-70 but it does not offend me that other people feel strongly about the mills they have. Quite honestly I do not feel that the woodmizer is the best mill out there, it has plenty of faults.
 
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