Wood Stove for fireplace?

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JPhilip

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We have an average-sized fireplace I had cleaned/inspected last year with everything in good shape. I was going to install a high-end stove insert for this winter (estimate was 3k for everything), but being in real estate, every discretionary expense was put on the backburner.

Now that it is cold I am kind of regretting putting that off. I can get a decent cast iron wood stove rather easily that would fit in my fireplace and throw off some good heat. My question is this: can I just place one in my firebox and let the fireplace flue take up the smoke or do I need an airtight professional installation? It seems to me that a stove with the smoke opening right under my flue is safe, but perhaps someone knows something I don't.

Thanks for your thoughts in advance.

Brr.
 
It would work if you had a new liner insert installed as well. The reason for the new liner is to create draft through the woodstove.

Without any draft the stove just sits and smoulders. Any heat that it does make goes up the flue with the smoke. Even if you open the door to get air to the stove all your heat (or most of it) is lost up the flue.

At best it wouldn't be any better than burning in an open fireplace without the liner.
 
If I have a newer open fireplace insert why cant I just connect a flue from a wood stove directly to the existing flue.
 
I'm using a steel/cast iron stove [Elm] backed into my tile flue fireplace. Took out the flue damper door and fabricated a heavy gauge, galvanized metal plate to close off the opening. Cut a centered, stovepipe sized hole in the plate and fit a short length of pipe from the stove up thru the hole.
If need be, you could size and cut out a cardboard template and take it to a sheet metal shop for fabrication.
 
If I have a newer open fireplace insert why cant I just connect a flue from a wood stove directly to the existing flue.
I don't think they will have the same size flu, so you will have no way to shut the intake air off in case of a chimney fire.
I think the codes concerning this are good and reasonable.Yes, you can back up a stove into a fireplace and the smoke will go up the flu and you will get some heat.This is not safe,legal or efficient;for the cost of a liner you can(usually) correct all of this.
 
I don't think they will have the same size flu, so you will have no way to shut the intake air off in case of a chimney fire.
I think the codes concerning this are good and reasonable.Yes, you can back up a stove into a fireplace and the smoke will go up the flu and you will get some heat.This is not safe,legal or efficient;for the cost of a liner you can(usually) correct all of this.

What Coog says is it. :agree2:
Line the flue with SS pipe for the correct draft and for cleaning. For a DIY it's not a big deal.
Inserts lose too much heat into the chimney and masonry. If you can, get a wood stove that sits in front of the fireplace giving you heat into the room. You can extend the hearth for safety. Again, not a big deal for DIY.
 
DON'T DO IT
I just put in an insert a month ago and did a lot of research. Do a Google search and you will have enough reading for hours. You need the proper size stove pipe for the stove you are running. Fireplace flues are to large and will not give proper draft, also the cooler flue temp will cause creosote build up. I have been a Firefighter for 23 years and have been to a lot of house fires due to poor installations.
Bottom line- the cost of a liner is cheap compared to rebuilding your house.

Its just not worth it.
 
This is something I did in the late 70's - And it worked for years, but there are some catches. I had a Lakewood stove, a box type airtite with a 6" pipe out the back. I took the damper right out, and made up some 1/4" steel pieces to go along side the pipe. The pipe has to extend up above the smokeshelf, or it won't draw well. About 2 ft. There's a 12x12 flue for my firplace, the amount of creosote that can build up in there is staggering. The first chimney fire I had looked like a 747 crashed on my roof. Cleaning the chimney is another issue, as you have to take the pipe & side pieces out, and all that soot & crap comes down into the room. Even covering the opening doesn't stop it all, as you still have to shovel it out of the fireplace. It was a real good day when the Harman boiler went into the basement, and the stove came out of the living room. One last thing, if and when your chimney is burning, molten globs of burning creosote will come down along side the pipe & into the hearth. These really stink. You'll think you're living in a teepee burning buffalo dung before it's all over.
 
My flue is 8" ss round , im sure there are stoves that take 8", right?

Most new stoves use 6" pipe.There is such a thing as a 8" to 6" reducer, I think, but again, I think running a 6" flex up your 8" flu would be the best course of action.Alternatively, you can find a stove that uses 8" pipe.
 
I'm using a steel/cast iron stove [Elm] backed into my tile flue fireplace. Took out the flue damper door and fabricated a heavy gauge, galvanized metal plate to close off the opening. Cut a centered, stovepipe sized hole in the plate and fit a short length of pipe from the stove up thru the hole.
If need be, you could size and cut out a cardboard template and take it to a sheet metal shop for fabrication.

I did this at my Mothers house. Bought whole setup from someone who used it in their house with no probs. I had to modify plate a little,the damper was different size. She has burned two years with no problems. No cresote buildup,no buffalo dung burning.She does run it on the hot side though.:cheers:
 
I did this at my Mothers house. Bought whole setup from someone who used it in their house with no probs. I had to modify plate a little,the damper was different size. She has burned two years with no problems. No cresote buildup,no buffalo dung burning.She does run it on the hot side though.:cheers:

There are a lot of variables, the biggest being whether the chimney is interior or exterior.
Exterior chimneys run a lot cooler causing more buildup.
 
i guess i didnt know this should be done. my insert just has about a 10x4 inch hole in the top with a damper on it. my chimney is just brick and all idid was slide it in. i always run with the damper closed. firebox always has good flame, and stove puts off ample heat. dont even know how i would go about hooking a liner to it.
 
There are a lot of variables, the biggest being whether the chimney is interior or exterior.
Exterior chimneys run a lot cooler causing more buildup.
:agree2: You are right. Moms chimney is interior. Like I said she runs it hot cause she doesnt want creosote buildup. Im not sur of the size of flue Id guess 12x12 maybe. I would say with careful monitoring it could be tried.:cheers:
 
You really need to check your flue.If it is an exterior chimney you can be sure that it is full of creosote.Unfortunately the early inserts were not made for liners.
My BIL has a old Warner woodstove he said he'd give me for free. It comes with a square liner of some type that attaches to the stove and goes 4-5' up the chimney. He said you have to remove the flue assembly from the fireplace and this adapter replaces it and prevents any draft from coming down. My MIL had it at her house for years and they had good luck with it. From what I can see it looks like it would be easy to clean so as to keep any creosote from building up. Ever see a set up like this ?? Thanks.
 
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