Working down a spar

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This is what I have wrt reference material:

-I have viewed some of the Arbor Master videos series
-I have the Tree Climbers Handbook
-I am studying the ISA Certification Guide (albeit, slowly)
-I have a couple knot books

I attended the Climbing and Sawing class by Arbor Master last OCT.... it was down at the A&M campus.
 
The Tree Climber's Companion is a really good staple read.

No really tall trees here either. I hear some guys saying "I was in an 80 ft tree the other day and ......"

That is funny because there are only 2 trees here that tall. I can think of a quite few fifty footers that have 120 foot plus spread.

I thought there was a really tall tree here because my 120' XTC from Fresco didn't touch the ground. Knowing there was no way I was at 120'+, I measured the rope - 75'!!! Called fresco and they sent the remainder. To me that is like ordering 120' of rope and getting 120 one foot sections:mad: .

I have never worked in Plano and don't know it all but at the same time, I can't see a big need for spiking and getting down spars. What type of trees?
Again, I have never worked there.
 
FYI

ANSI Z133.1 -2000


7.2.8 Arborists shall use a second point of attachment (work positioning lanyard or double crotched rope) when operating a chain saw in a tree, unless the employer demonstrates that a greater hazard is posed by using a second point of attachment while operating chain saws in that particular situation.
 
Angling that flipline up is risky. How do you know the flipline isn't hung up on a stub or on uneven bark. If the wood is big enough you can't see the other side of the spar by leaning to one side you'd have to walk around and check every time. What if you just hit a nail and your saw is dishing.

I'm not saying angle it up, but have the second significantly lower. IMO having them at the same level removes the redundancy factor the ANSI paragraph Tim quotes requires.

In Origon, you obviously have much bigger treees then we do, but i always check my flipline to sww it is not inline with my cut. On bigger wood I will ask the ground to visualy check it.
 
Might add-
Don Blair's "Arborist Equipment",
Free Sherrill Catalog,
Husky $8 video,
Free Samson Arborist Rope Guide for on line viewing or goto DownLoad Samson Catalogs for Offline Viewing & Refrence, R. Click Manual Link, Choose Save-Target-As .
Free Stihl chainsaw safety manual with each saw.
Free- This site is tops, you could assemble a lot with just the search on specific topics.

Advanced Topics, now or later:

Doug Dent "Proffessional Timber Falling",
Padget/Smith "On Rope",
Cyrus Day"Art of Knotting and Splicing",
 
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i have not used the FS, but can see where JP's et al; system would be safer, and easier for the reasons he states (as well as others helping); the 'short comings' would be another piece of gear to hoist; and perhaps a spar size that was outside of the range of the device.

Here is the Oregon Chain Bible i believe he refers too. Kinda a nice list that we could compile of free and other resources, as a standard refrence for all here and to come.

View Oregon Manual Online

DownLoad Oregon Manual for Offline Viewing & Refrence, R. Click Manual Link, Choose Save-Target-As

Also adding:OSHA Loggers Glossary - OSHA

Also links to other OHSA logging stuff from there. The user guide link takes you to a small course. Here is a page from it.


OSHA Results of Incorrect Felling
 
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That is the book, you can email them and they will send several copies out free of charge. That way you can give them to every member of the crew.
 
knocked down a dead fir for a developer today and paid attention to what I was doing thinking about this thread. Piecing out a spar is a very repetitous act and it would be easy to get sloppy and make a mistake if you don't have safe habits. I'll be making changes to the way I do it after 9 years. I'll keep the 2 steel core fliplines but add gibbs. That way my backup will be choked around the tree with the saddle out of the loop like JPS was talking about. In an emergency(or lunch) situation either flipline could be choked around the tree to make a false crotch to be used for repelling/lowering by me or rescuers. I'll also add a figure 8. Then I'll have to post on the how heavy is your saddle thread.

I was told when I started climbing that a chainsaw will cut a steel core flipline in an emergency situation. I've never tested that, but probably should since that's how I climb. I've also been told a climbing crew should have a set of gear laid out explicitly for aerial rescue and train for it at least once a month. If a chainsaw can't cut steel core then my crew should theoretically have a pair of bolt cutters on the emergency saddle. A rescuer could use the emergency saddle to climb the spare, hang a false crotch above me attach the spare safety climbing rope to my saddle, attach their own climbing rope to my second, cut my first flipline with the bolt cutters if they can't unsnap it and guide me down while the ground man lowers me. Or they could do it a half dozen other ways.

The reality is I don't own a second saddle and my 2 groundmen were from labor ready and couldn't start a chainsaw let alone perform an aerial rescue. Until I have enough work to hire an experienced crew I'll have to go with the philosophy that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.


Hey Treespyder maybe you could freeze dry some of that live oak and send it out to Origon, Florida can't need it and it'll go for $165 a cord out here.
 
Originally posted by TREETX
I have never worked in Plano and don't know it all but at the same time, I can't see a big need for spiking and getting down spars. What type of trees?
Again, I have never worked there.

We don't have big trees here in DFW: at least, not by most of the guys on this forums standards. Big to me would be 50+, and that is plenty since I'm still new at all this.

I spike on removals. The only time I've come close to a "real" spar is on a Cedar tree (by "real", I mean totally straight with no stubs). Cedars grow straight like pines and tend to have higher branches: so, you can end up with a spar. On that particular tree, I had a long spar with a few stubs up top. I left one of the stubs a bit longer so my friction saver could sit in the crotch. After reading all these discussions, I now realize that this is not the safest practice. That is why I'm asking about better and safer ways of doing it.

TREETX, where u located?
 
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