Wrist injury from starting chainsaw

[glenn31792]

sky -the pull cord locks up while I'm pulling it


Any chance that you have a ring habging up on a port?
How about a wrist pin missing a clip?

 

[Climbing Fool]

I asked about the ezy start system on larger stihl saws and was told it will not store enough kinetic energy to start anything larger hence they only use them on ms250's.

I may have misunderstood but it seemed that some folks were suggesting that they start saws with the chainbrake off? In Australia that is a guaranteed fail on a chainsaw safety and handling course and I have drummed it into my guys over the years. It is something we just don't do and we rarely have problems starting saws.

My doctor told me years ago that wrist problems are almost always a result of poor technique which compels the wrist to bend in the action you undertake. My old squash coach pointed this out also during video training sessions and as weird as it sounds, if you suffer from this problem video your starting technique. Don't be surprised to see you are bending your wrist. Just put the saw on the ground mate. It is how I was taught and how I teach my guys and to date we have no issues with any of these sorts of injuries. I am 42 so it isnt an age thing either.

I took note of the d ring suggestion and that sounds like a good idea. The priciple difference between a d and t handle is the you can use that awfully handy opposing thumb when drawing on a d ring and lock your fingers. At least you save on finger injuries!

My chiropractor recommended wrist rotations in the morning to prevent injuries like the ones being discussed. I honestly don't do them every day but hey, if pro athletes warm up carefully it seems smart that pro sawhands should too.

 

[treevet]

My old squash coach pointed this

My chiropractor recommended wrist rotations in the morning to prevent injuries like the ones being discussed. I honestly don't do them every day but hey, if pro athletes warm up carefully it seems smart that pro sawhands should too.

Neat sport, you still play?

Wrist rotations with a small sledge hammer or a splitting maul will strengthen as well as warm up. You can adjust the resistance by moving your hand up or down the handle.

 

[Climbing Fool]

Neat sport, you still play?

Wrist rotations with a small sledge hammer or a splitting maul will strengthen as well as warm up. You can adjust the resistance by moving your hand up or down the handle.

Love the game but 2 years ago I chose climbing over squash as my crappy swing action was putting pressure on my right elbow. Of course the best solution would be to get more coaching and improve my swing....but common sense just aint that common now is it.

Good idea on the rotations too. Of course now all I need to do is actually warm up occasionally......

 

[treevet]

one thing to keep in mind about the decompression valve is it will pop back up if you get any combustion at all, sometimes without being very noticeable. If your pull cord is stopping mid pull then there's a good chance the button popped up between pulls and you weren't aware. Try getting in the habit of checking it in between every pull. A coworker of mine broke a finger trying to start an 088 when the pull cord stopped mid pull. If you get a "tremendous pain" in your wrist after this has happened my guess is that you probably injured it when this happened.

My 88 acts like that sometimes even when the button is in. We put a D rescue handle on it (we have broken 2 so far) and sometimes I wrap a towel around it but esp when it is cold sometimes you are gonna get pain when starting. Long term injury may likely follow.

 

[slowp]

The past couple of times I've started saws (MS440 and MS460s), if the pull cord locks up while I'm pulling it I get a tremendous pain in my wrist which lasts for a few minutes. I don't think that I have particularly weak wrists so I figure I must be doing something wrong. What gives?

Both 440s--Twinkle and the Barbie Saw will do this. The decomp valve is in, I've got the saw on the ground with my boot toe in the handle, the chainbrake is on, most of the time, the saw is warmed up--sometimes the saw is cold. I pull on the rope pull and the decomp valve pops out somewhere in the pull sequence, and throws the hand back with the pull cord. They'll do it several times when this happens, doesn't matter if you pull the cord out to where it meets resistance, doesn't matter what if anything, you'll have your hand/wrist snapped back several times before the decomp stays in for the whole pull. It makes for bad language.

A coworker suggests holding down the decomp valve while starting when this happens. If I have a long enough reach, and I think I do, I'm going to try it the next time this happens. Do ya think it'll hurt the saw?

 

[treevet]

That is what I do on my ms880 or it is suicide.

 

[boltonranger]

Also try...

You can do the ground start but not with boot in the handle.
Squat next to saw; and put right knee on top of rear handle with some of your weight on it. Left hand grips front handle right pulls cord BUT use shoulder with elbow bent. Saves my wrist. Chain brake if you like.
Yeah Patty I've held decomp in on Stihl; gives you a black thumb, no harm to saw but can't do on side decomp like Huskies have.
:greenchainsaw:
-br

 

[Raymond]

The past couple of times I've started saws (MS440 and MS460s), if the pull cord locks up while I'm pulling it I get a tremendous pain in my wrist which lasts for a few minutes. I don't think that I have particularly weak wrists so I figure I must be doing something wrong. What gives?

Like Southsoundtree said...You are using the decompression valve on top of the motor right? Not just on the choke pulls but even after it hits. :computer:

 

[Brushwacker]

A while back in the chainsaw forum it was posted starting the 660 or 066 cold by pulling the starter out slow several times with the choke on to prime it,then use the compression release for a normal fast pull and it would usually start in 1 or 2 pulls with the choke still on. I have been doing this and it is much less often I have the handle jerk out of my hand using the procedure.
I often use the procedure on other saws also. Lately when using the 660 it seemed to prime as well doing the slow pulls with the compression release on.
Try it if you haven't. Most saws vary a little to how they start best so experiment until you find what is best. If your hands still getting tortured and your saw can't be tuned to start within your comfort range may be best to invest in a milder starting saw. I bought an old 044 of ebay for a little over $200 a couple years ago that feels a little down on compression. It pulls little more then effortlessly and usually pops in 1 or 2 cold and starts 1 or 2 after. 1st pull usually warm. I put a factory duel port on it and it may not be the fastest 044, but it screams with a 20" and I have no disire to change anything on it or to try to replace it. Just haven't experianced any saw that works that hard and is that easy on the operator between the easy starting and its sweet handling charactoristics. I have an fairly new Makita 6401 which starts almost as well .
Mabe woods porting a saw would help. I think you loose a little compression but am not sure how it affects starting.
Elastostart handle is a plus.

 

[Highclimber OR]

Haven't experienced that pain yet but I know what you are talking about. I'm with Gary, try the saw on the ground with the foot on it. Perhaps you should wrap the wrist and lighten up a bit.