yet another ? about porting tools

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Hmmm, It seems Dremel needs to step up to the plate and manufacture us chainsaw guys a special 90 degree tip for upper trans. LOL

I'm sure their 90 degree attachment would still be cheaper than a Foredom or CC Specialty setup.




Cool, yeah they seem to have every burr a guy could ever want in there. I found that company in Welding Magazine.

Dremel makes a 90 degree attachment, but I think it's too big for small cylinders.

Exactly, their attachment is waaay too big. They need to make a smaller one for us. :D

And there is no reason why they couldn't.
The Dremel was made for fine work and then make an angle drive the size of something like 2" :dizzy:
Obviously not a market big enough for something that suits our requirements.
 
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Al, you've gone and had me downloading Dental supply catalogues now just to see what's what and what can be used :laugh:

Rick, where'd you go, lol.

I've had a couple of issues with this unit and that's why at this stage I wouldn't go out of my way to recommend it. Mine is Chinese made but never the less looked to be reasonably well made. Grinding ports is a little more radical than doing teeth, but then I wouldn't make a good Dentist. I'd start at the tooth and finish of with a lobotomy.

I think the smaller bit will be better, as the larger bit caused the unit to loosen at the threads which was fixed with some Locktite. The contra angle gets hot quick also. But.........this unit will get into tight areas and has plenty of grunt.
The burrs need a flat spot and a groove to fit only the contra angle but not needed for the straight piece. Doing the mods to the bits was quite easy.
I'll organize some photo's.
If you could line up some second hand dental equipment would be the go.
 
I went ahead and ordered the Astro Pnuematic #218 pencil grinder, for a little over $40 at Tooltopia. I'll let you know how it works.

Even though most of the import pencil grinders look the same, there is a difference in the CFM ratings. The Astro is rated at 4 cfm, the HF & no-name at 2 cfm, and the Nieko at 1.4 cfm. That may or may not be meaningful, but I went with the Astro thinking it might have a bit more power.

Now I gotta pick up a carbide burr and a small round stone (for chamfering). I can make a mandrel to hold emory cloth. I'm told a small cut off wheel can be used on the upper transfers, but as a newbie porter, I'm planning to leave the upper transfers alone.
 
DSCF2580.jpg
 
Does anyone use a rotary tool (ie. Dremel) with a flexible shaft attachment for porting? I don't own an air compressor yet, so a pencil die grinder is out. I do have a Black and Decker RTX rotary tool that will have to do for me. I see that Black and Decker has a flexible shaft attachment, but I can't find it for sale online. I don't know it the Dremel version will work with my tool. I have seen this aftermarket flexible shaft. Anybody have any experience with it?

Kevin
 
Does anyone use a rotary tool (ie. Dremel) with a flexible shaft attachment for porting? I don't own an air compressor yet, so a pencil die grinder is out. I do have a Black and Decker RTX rotary tool that will have to do for me. I see that Black and Decker has a flexible shaft attachment, but I can't find it for sale online. I don't know it the Dremel version will work with my tool. I have seen this aftermarket flexible shaft. Anybody have any experience with it?

Kevin

Kevin,

I'm porting a Sachs Dolmar 117 jug right now. . . The only thing I'm using is a Dremel tool. That's plenty sufficient for a basic woods port.

More advanced porting may require more, but that will all come later for ya.
 
Kevin,

I'm porting a Sachs Dolmar 117 jug right now. . . The only thing I'm using is a Dremel tool. That's plenty sufficient for a basic woods port.

More advanced porting may require more, but that will all come later for ya.

Very basic porting for me...just minimal widening of the intake and exhaust ports is where I'll start.

I figure one of those flexible shafts attached to my rotary tool head would make for better control.

Kevin
 
Very basic porting for me...just minimal widening of the intake and exhaust ports is where I'll start.

I figure one of those flexible shafts attached to my rotary tool head would make for better control.

Kevin

If you've got a steady hand and eye, holding the rotary tool itself isn't bad. I haven't even had to bust out my pencil grinder yet.

The key is taking little tiny bites, and not trying to move too fast. . . Try just the tool first, and if you don't like it, you can always upgrade to the flex-shaft. :cheers:
 
SO what do you guys use on the top edge of the exaust and intake ports? Its a tuff angle to get at.
 
Does anyone use a rotary tool (ie. Dremel) with a flexible shaft attachment for porting? I don't own an air compressor yet, so a pencil die grinder is out. I do have a Black and Decker RTX rotary tool that will have to do for me. I see that Black and Decker has a flexible shaft attachment, but I can't find it for sale online. I don't know it the Dremel version will work with my tool. I have seen this aftermarket flexible shaft. Anybody have any experience with it?

Kevin

I have used the dremel attachment and it works well. Its still hard to get certain arear like the top of the ports.
 
SO what do you guys use on the top edge of the exaust and intake ports? Its a tuff angle to get at.
If you are talking about chamfering the edge, I think they use a small ball stone.

It would be nice if someone would post a pic of their favorite chamfering tool. I need to order one and I'm not sure what size will work best.
 
If you've got a steady hand and eye, holding the rotary tool itself isn't bad. I haven't even had to bust out my pencil grinder yet.

The key is taking little tiny bites, and not trying to move too fast. . . Try just the tool first, and if you don't like it, you can always upgrade to the flex-shaft. :cheers:

Sound advice...I'll take it. Thanks.

Kevin
 
I have used the dremel attachment and it works well. Its still hard to get certain arear like the top of the ports.

Good stuff. When I do get started, I'm gonna try using the tool by itself as Metals suggested. I have good sized hands, and my tool has a rubber tapered area at the end so I should be okay.

Kevin
 
If you are talking about chamfering the edge, I think they use a small ball stone.

It would be nice if someone would post a pic of their favorite chamfering tool. I need to order one and I'm not sure what size will work best.


I like to use this pink cone grinding stone (dental equipment) to do part of the edges around ports.
Bilde204-1.jpg
 
This is the diamond burr I use and they are something like ten bucks for a pack of about twenty with different shapes. They remove very little being good for chamfers. The stones should be similar.
I do my chamfers through the cyl.

That's a 3/32-2.35mm bit BTW.

DSCF2581.jpg
 
Bonden

I see you mentioned and showed a picture of dental equipment that you use.How many RPM's.does that motor have that drives the dental equipment?
Thanks
Lawrence
 
RPM's

Okay I don't own a compressor at present,but I do own a flex shaft that I bought to go with a Baldor industrial motor that I already own, it is 1/4 hp and rpm is 1725.I have a chuck attachment for the motor shaft and that is what the flex shaft is coupled to.But the motor is turning way to slow,even when I hook up a sanding disc to the flex shaft it takes forever to get anything done.So my question is this, if I upgrade the motor for the flexshaft how many horsepower and rpm's should I be looking at if I get a new motor.The flex shaft is rated to max. 20,000 rpm.Will 20,000 rpm get things done with the flexshaft or should I just focus on some thing else for down the road when I get into this sort of thing? I think I should add that before I even get into porting and stuff I would use it for polishing smaller stuff and grinding/sanding/cutting smaller metal pieces.
Many Thanks
Lawrence
 
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