YOU can't hand file properly!!

[ZeroJunk]

It usually only takes about three licks with a file to get it back in shape provided you don't hit any barbed wire or whtever somebody left in there for you.

There is a shop here that sharpens them for $3, but they take about 1/10 or more when they sharpen.

I can make a chain quite useable for a lot longer with a file than anybody is going to with a grinder.

 

[alderman]

I hand file a out 75% of the time. I use the Grandberg guide. I can't say I know what I'm doing, but they usually cut better after I give them a few licks with the file.


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[Fish]

One has to remove the damage to properly sharpen the chain, whether file or grinder.

I can tap the edge of a rocked out chain with my grinding wheel, and it may cut fair for a few cuts, but then be just as dull.

Guys with files in the field may do this if they really want to, but untill you remove the damaged material and get the proper angle,
it ain't sharp!!!!!

 

[Philbert]

I have never seen a ground chain cut worth a damn as compared to a properly tuned hand filing. And I mean round file. . . . I'll send a pre-paid box USPS, with the cost of the chain inside. PM me.

Oldtimer, send me a round ground chain needing sharpening, with your pre-paid mailer offer, and I will send you back a properly ground chain, taking off only what is required to remove any damage and to bring back the edges.

A friend of mine purchased chain in rolls and when a chain got dull he would replace it with a new chain. He said for what it cost to have the chains sharpened, he could replace them. . .

Those are guys I like to meet - I scrounge, scavenge, and rehab lots of really abused chains - discarded ones that are just dull would be a treat!

Because I sharpen each tooth as an individual and not necessarily try to make it match all the other ones, (hey, I said it works for me, do your own differently) is why when people have a chain cutting curves and posters on here say it's because all your teeth aren't the same length or you rakers aren't set correctly . . .

Part of it also relates to the non-rectangular shape of the cutters. If they are not filed or ground to the same length they will not all be the same height (jointed) or width (due to set). This will contribute to a rougher cut and more vibration. Small differences will not be as noticeable.

In the thread on the new style chain sharpener that uses the carbide crank cutter, it was interesting to note in there that many stated they thought their hand filed chains were perfect until they jigged it up with that and found their angles weren't as exact as they thought. . .

I thought that those comments were interesting too!

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

It usually only takes about three licks with a file to get it back in shape provided you don't hit any barbed wire or whtever somebody left in there for you. . . . I can make a chain quite useable for a lot longer with a file than anybody is going to with a grinder.

This is the difference between 'touch-up' sharpening/maintaining of the edge as you go, and heavy sharpening of a dull chain. You can't really compare the two by counting the number of times. As Professor Fish noted, if you hit a rock, you can't just take a few licks with a file to bring it back, you have to go beyond the damage. If the edges are just dull, no reason to take off much metal with the grinder either.

I carry files in the field for free hand touch ups, but use a grinder back at home for higher volume sharpening (done about 60 chains over the last couple of months) or heavily rocked chains. I also have a Granberg style file guide for times that I don't want to set up the grinder or make a bunch of noise or dust.

Nobody plays golf with just one club. No reason you can't have options, and choose the right tool for the task at hand. Try a few different things, and choose something(s) that work(s) for you.

Philbert

 

[timmcat]

Wow, three pages in under 2 1/2 hour about sharpening. Apparently everybody here knows how to turn a dull chain into a sharp one, thats good considering the company we're keeping:hmm3grin2orange:. Personally I grind 99% at work, but moved my grinder from home to work because I was much happier with the results freehanding my own chains with a file. I have all three of the husky roller guides and they work good for the most part, but I still think the difference between true freehand and the guide isn't worth the bother of using it. For me its simple, if I file my chain and it doesn't cut straight then I refile the dull side, couldn't be simpler.

 

[ZeroJunk]

This is the difference between 'touch-up' sharpening/maintaining of the edge as you go, and heavy sharpening of a dull chain. You can't really compare the two by counting the number of times. As Professor Fish noted, if you hit a rock, you can't just take a few licks with a file to bring it back, you have to go beyond the damage. If the edges are just dull, no reason to take off much metal with the grinder either.

I carry files in the field for free hand touch ups, but use a grinder back at home for higher volume sharpening (done about 60 chains over the last couple of months) or heavily rocked chains. I also have a Granberg style file guide for times that I don't want to set up the grinder or make a bunch of noise or dust.

Nobody plays golf with just one club. No reason you can't have options, and choose the right tool for the task at hand. Try a few different things, and choose something(s) that work(s) for you.

Philbert

About the only time I ever wreck a chain is flush cutting a stump in somebody's yard. And, I get saws to repair or resell sometimes that look like they tried to carve a fire hydrant.

So yes, I take them to the shop and get them ground for three bucks occassionally. But, for the most part I can avoid severe chain damage.

 

[Philbert]

. . . I take them to the shop and get them ground for three bucks occassionally. But, for the most part I can avoid severe chain damage.

It amazes me how little some shops charge for chain sharpening. Around here, it starts at about $7 for a 16 inch chain. When I think of how long it takes to do a good job, depending upon the condition of the chain, they can't be making much money on it. That's why, I think, some hardware stores, etc., assign some low paid kid to do it, who doesn't really know much about chains, and we get all of the negative comments about blued cutters, grinding away half the cutters, etc. Also why some shops prefer to just sell you a new chain.

I work with guys who do storm cleanup, so they hit lots of junk and frequently chew up chains. If I take my time, I can do a good job bringing most any chain back, but I don't know that I could make money doing it. Maybe with those ABN/CBN wheels and an automated grinder? Maybe ther are some speed techniques I could learn?

Philbert

 

[Fish]

So yes, I take them to the shop and get them ground for three bucks occassionally.

Wow!!!!!

 

[Fish]

Wow!!!!!

That takes me back 20+ years or so......

Do you mention the great depression a lot?????

 

[fearofpavement]

About the only time I ever wreck a chain is flush cutting a stump in somebody's yard. And, I get saws to repair or resell sometimes that look like they tried to carve a fire hydrant.

So yes, I take them to the shop and get them ground for three bucks occassionally. But, for the most part I can avoid severe chain damage.

Wow, you must not cut many residential area trees because there are all sorts of things in there waiting to ambush your chain. Sometimes I think I should take my saw to the shore and see if it can find as much metal there as it does in the wood...

 

[Cantdog]

I use all three methods... freehand filing, Granberg and a Tecomec grinder. For yrs and yrs I would freehand in the woods and then in the evening put the saw in a benchvice, clamp on the Granberg and bring back any irrigularities created while filing on a stump in a snow bank in the woods. This worked really good for me and I got good milage out of my chains. Then a while back I bought a mid grade Tecomec to straighten up some badly filed/rocked chains. What I have found, is using a grinder is somewhat of a catch 22.....if you use it only to fix damaged chains it is time consuming to get all the bits even and sharpened to the bit with the deepest damage without blueing and hardening them thus not being able to file them. Using a grinder properly is just as much of a skill set to learn as hand filing. You have to learn how your grinder works and what to expect it will do. I like my grinder but I still want to be able to file in the field so I have had to learn how to achieve this....it doesn't just happen. The flip side of the grinder is if you use it to just sharpen a chain from the beginning that is merely dull you can do it very fast with just a light kiss of the wheel without blueing the bit at all. As far as claims that chains go away to quickly with a grinder that is simlpy how the operator uses the tool without having a full understanding of what he/she is doing...simple as that......chains are not the only thing thats dull, sometimes......LOL!!! Grinders, jigs and a file with a wooden handle are all tools and with some thought and learned skill will all give good results if the human pays attention to what is required.

 

[Fish]

But a shop that still charges $3.....

Wow!!!!! They must really suk........

 

[ZeroJunk]

That takes me back 20+ years or so......

Do you mention the great depression a lot?????

I took a chain for a 24 inch bar in there a couple of weeks ago, can't remember how i got it. Never been sharpened, but it had ran in to something harder than it was.

Three bucks and they did it while I waited.

On the other hand, you can take one to the hardware store in Greensboro and they charge $7 to take a chain off a saw.

 

[ZeroJunk]

But a shop that still charges $3.....

Wow!!!!! They must really suk........

I don't know. They have been there as long as I can remember. Have four or five employees and all they do is service work on saws, lawnmowers, about anything with a small engine on it.

 

[Fish]

I was just kidding a bit.


Do they do a decent job on the chain???

I still only charge $5, and these cheapn bustards around here keep me busy.......

But they all seem to come back happy....

 

[Fish]

I was at $3.50-$4.00 forever, until the last time I had to buy some wheels.

If I were a bit more intelligent, I would kick a buck..................







What movie was that from????

 

[ZeroJunk]

I was just kidding a bit.


Do they do a decent job on the chain???

I still only charge $5, and these cheapn bustards around here keep me busy.......

But they all seem to come back happy....

They'll get your chain sharp, but I suspect a man could be a little more carefull about how much metal he took. They do fast work is probably the explanatioin for that.