MS460 Oiler Problem

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JimiLL

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Just bought a new 460, and Ive noticed that it doesnt seem to be throwing as much oil as it should. Im running a 25" bar and have the oiler cranked all the way up... and at this I will go through a tank of gas before oil.

Id say that theres still 20% capacity in the bar oil when the saw's gas runs out.

It seemed to move more oil when it was new... maybe did I get some schmutz in the tank and its partially clogged??

Also.... whats involved in doing the 460R oiler swap??

Thanks
 
Just bought a new 460, and Ive noticed that it doesnt seem to be throwing as much oil as it should. Im running a 25" bar and have the oiler cranked all the way up... and at this I will go through a tank of gas before oil.

Id say that theres still 20% capacity in the bar oil when the saw's gas runs out.
Sounds perfectly normal. All my saws run out of gas before they run out of oil.

maybe did I get some schmutz in the tank and its partially clogged??
There's a screen inside the tank, on the pick up tube. Might need to be blown out.

Also.... whats involved in doing the 460R oiler swap??
Never done it, but if it's like the 660 oiler swap, the hard part is shelling out the money for the hi-output oiler.

By design, most new saws are pretty stingy with bar oil, compared to the old days.
 
same issue with my 460 just the way they are I even put a new line and filter and cleaned everything up the swap is a simple swap that other oiler will dump it has more output than the 660 oiler I didnt swap but the new one from dealer is about 75 bucks here
 
Sounds perfectly normal. All my saws run out of gas before they run out of oil.

There's a screen inside the tank, on the pick up tube. Might need to be blown out.

Never done it, but if it's like the 660 oiler swap, the hard part is shelling out the money for the hi-output oiler.

By design, most new saws are pretty stingy with bar oil, compared to the old days.

Well I have a 32" bar on the way for a BIG red oak that went down up the road from me.

Should I swap to the upgraded oiler for such use?
 
I run 28'' on mine alot it runs hot but not too bad youd probably be ok Id just take it easy, unless you plan on running that alot then it may be worht while.
 
Try this first: set the saw on clean cement or wood, and run it WOT for a minute or so. If you see a thin trail of oil develop on the clean surface, you're fine -- the oiler is delivering oil to the B/C with very little waste to the surrounding material. If you DON'T see a trail develop, you might want to have a talk with your dealer.

Current-model Stihls are notoriously miserly with the bar oil, but they WORK. Don't cry "WOLF!" if you don't have to. Filling the oil tank about half as often as the gas is normal. This holds true for all pro models from 260-660, which is the full range I have experience with. Smaller and larger I can't speak for, but I suspect that they will behave in a similar manner.
 
I have a new MS460 with a 28" bar and after maxing out the oil output screw it runs just over a 1/2 tank of oil for a tank of gas. Worried a lot about it since I'm used to oil dripping off the bar but obviously it is pumping oil and careful inspection does show a film of oil in the bar groove and on the chain. Thought about putting in the HO oil pump but I'm just going to leave it be for now and see how it works out.
 
I have a new MS460 with a 28" bar and after maxing out the oil output screw it runs just over a 1/2 tank of oil for a tank of gas. Worried a lot about it since I'm used to oil dripping off the bar but obviously it is pumping oil and careful inspection does show a film of oil in the bar groove and on the chain. Thought about putting in the HO oil pump but I'm just going to leave it be for now and see how it works out.

:agree2: Mine is running a 25" bar. The first thing I noticed was the lack of oil usage VS my 440. But as mentioned above there is oil on the chain and bar.
 
I have a new MS460 with a 28" bar and after maxing out the oil output screw it runs just over a 1/2 tank of oil for a tank of gas. Worried a lot about it since I'm used to oil dripping off the bar but obviously it is pumping oil and careful inspection does show a film of oil in the bar groove and on the chain. Thought about putting in the HO oil pump but I'm just going to leave it be for now and see how it works out.

I think we like to see oil slinging off the B&C after idle because it makes us confident they are getting enough oil. I know that's true for me, and I think it's also true for others.

I've seen other oil talk, including a thread or two here on AS, where amid all the talk that the oil/gas use should approach 1 tank to 1 tank, others who have been chainsawing a long time say that as long is you can swipe your finger over the side of the chain and come away with a skim of oil, it's enough oil to do the job.

I used to be worried if I wasn't slinging oil the first rev after idling awhile. Now I don't worry about it anymore. I do think, however, that when bars approach or exceed the max recommended length for the MS model saws, the risks of underoiling increase.

That's just one reason my two MS saws, the 460 and 660, will not be wearing max length bars. The 660 will be limited to 32 inches, the 460 to 25 inches on a daily basis, with a 28 if I need that in a pinch.

Just the way I am looking at it.
 
I had the same issue with not alot of oil coming out. I bought a control bolt and a piston pump and changed them out to the HO oiler. The cost was I think 36 or 37 dollars and it only took like 15 minutes to change them out, very easy. The thing oils like crazy now. Stihl part numbers are for the piston pump 1128-647-0602 it was $32.02 and the control bolt 1128-647-4803 it was $4.98. GOOD LUCK..
 
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Feel free to correct me If I'm wrong.:monkey:


My old poulan 330 would oil anytime the engine was running.
My new stihls only oil when the chain is spining.


So if I let the 330 idle for 30 seconds and than goosed the trigger I would shot out a spray of oil. So when I switched over to stihls I was a little surprised not to see the stream.

I feel that if I use 3/4 tank of bar lube per 1 tank of fuel I'm O.K.

:cheers:
 
My old poulan 330 would oil anytime the engine was running. My new stihls only oil when the chain is spining.

Hmmmm, that might explain why the MS saws are more stingy with oil. I know all of my Stihls that start with an "0" will oil at idle. I'd like to hear a definite "aye" or "nay" on this, too. Good point, MB. :clap: :clap:
 
Not sure which models you have, but most Stihl oil pumps are driven by the clutch drum, and the clutch drum is not supposed to be spinning at idle. :confused:

Well then something is weird. I freely admit making an assumption that the "0" series were oiling at idle because after a few minutes of idling, there's oil dripping down the sides of the bars and they sling good roostertails of it when I first rev off idle.

The MS series saws I've used haven't done that (MS290, 460, 660), so that's what led me to the (apparently incorrect) assumption. :(
 
Ok just ordered up the new oiler stuff Ill give a full report when I get it done. The parts, however, are on a 2+ week back order :/

Cant wait to noodle with that 32:chainsawguy:
 
What's the cost for the new HO oiler?

I'm still thinking of doing mine.
 
All the modern stihls are putting less oil on the bar cause in europe they don`t like oil being pumped onto the ground thats why its important to use good quality lube.Look up ematic
 

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