Arborist rejoice! 201T Mod.

Using the wisdom of those more skilled and knowledgeable then my self about chainsaws. The gurus of the chainsaw forum have saved the day, and using their hard work,"I", a simple tree trimmer advanced the timing, modded the muffler, and drilled the carb limiters and tuned my new stihl 201T, turning it from a slug to a stud.
My saw now not only revs up faster then a 200T but also has as much or more power the the 200T of old. I am not a saw tech guy, if I can do it anyone can. If you got stuck with a 201 and are not happy, Mod it, is all I'm saying. You'll be pleasantly suprised.

I was thinking of doing that also, but i couldnt find the thread. Guess i need to search a little harder.

I am confortable with everything but the timing, and the limiter. Anyone have pics/video showing how to adjust the timing?

beastmaster said:

Using the wisdom of those more skilled and knowledgeable then my self about chainsaws. The gurus of the chainsaw forum have saved the day, and using their hard work,"I", a simple tree trimmer advanced the timing, modded the muffler, and drilled the carb limiters and tuned my new stihl 201T, turning it from a slug to a stud.
My saw now not only revs up faster then a 200T but also has as much or more power the the 200T of old. I am not a saw tech guy, if I can do it anyone can. If you got stuck with a 201 and are not happy, Mod it, is all I'm saying. You'll be pleasantly suprised.

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201T is always gonna be gay, don't care what you do to it, never gonna be better than a 200!! Blakes had one of those things all modded up.. sounded like a dying dog or something. Just the sound of it was pissing me off as the day progressed. Lol.

tree MDS said:

201T is always gonna be gay, don't care what you do to it, never gonna be better than a 200!! Blakes had one of those things all modded up.. sounded like a dying dog or something. Just the sound of it was pissing me off as the day progressed. Lol.

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I'm actually starting to like it again now...probably because I haven't had to take it to the shop in a month and a half. I still won't climb with it though, but it's my go to bucket saw.

And I think I'm gonna hold off on the rejoicing for when husky finally kicks stihl's ass clear accross the board, and I can have all orange saws on the truck... go T540!!!

Any one know when that venerable Husky is scheduled to debut??

arborealbuffoon said:

Any one know when that venerable Husky is scheduled to debut??

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Dec 22, 2012 on the Mayan calendar... :msp_scared:

2treeornot2tree said:

I am confortable with everything but the timing, and the limiter. Anyone have pics/video showing how to adjust the timing?

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Just don't get crazy with how much you remove from the intake or exhaust ports. You don't have to take a ton out to get improvement, When i want some serious work done i send it away. Minor porting i bust the dermal out, take more out of the sides than the top or bottom of the ports. When you get into taking a crap load out of the top or bottom of a port you start messing with the timing.

I shouldn't say crap load either in some saws its not that much. You don't necessarily have to advance the timing to get improvements. The intake port on most chainsaws from what I've notices is narrow and has lots of room for improvement. my saws usually run better just from polishing that up. But if you want real big gains send it to one of the guys and have a popup welded on the piston timing advance, the works.

Stumpy has done a handful of saws for me, once you start using modded saws it can be hard to go back. Use that as a disclaimer because now everything i run anymore i have to send it out before i can use it. New ms660 900$ plus a 300 more for porting. lol

It seems the major problem with the 201t is EPA related. Between having to satisfy federal smog and noise restrictions the saws had to be detuned and plugged up.
Those in the USA those who remember what happened to cars in the early 70s, some going from 300+ horsepower to 160- horsepower overnight will have a clearer picture.
On the 201T it's only a matter of drilling a hole in the muffler and removing the screen to mod the muffler, That unplugs it a lot.(don't leave no metal shavings in muffler)
Now that gets it exhaling, but you need to get more air and gas in it now. The Jetting on the Carb has limiters on them to prevent that. A small pin of soft metal or maybe it plastic even, holds the limiter(s) in. On my saw only one side(the H) had a limiter. It's very easy and foolproof to drill it out. These saws have rev limiters. So bumping up the jetting is a little different then a none rev limiter saw.
Last they retarded the timing. The timing is based on the position of the flywheel and when the magnetic part passes the ignition. Filing the keyway that holds the flywheel in place allowing it to be advanced will change the timing.
All this is in the saw forum and better explaned by those ground braking saw techs who went the extra mile. For a small fee one of them will do the mod for you if you send the saw.
I am told both the 200T and 201T both are ported almost perfect from the factory as they come from the box.
I modded my echo 330T and its not your fathers echo. I have a Calif. 338xpt husky that a guy I work for ran over with a truck. It's brand new, but needs a new housing that I am going to mod. My old reliable stihl 038 I did mods on and I plan on porting, Please, somebody stop me!:msp_biggrin:

Please help me to understand the timing advance dealio.
I'm not getting the idea of grinding on a key way then putting it back in and it working properly.
What I'm not getting is ,,,how will a pc. that is precision machined to hold a part in place still function correctly with half of the material removed???
I am handy with a wrench. I know how offset keyways work but can't wrap my mind around this remove half thing.

Anybody got pics????

ozzy42 said:

Please help me to uunderstand the timing advance dealio.
I'm not getting the idea of grinding on a key way then putting it back in and it working properly.
What I'm not getting is ,,,how will a pc. that is precision machined to hold a part in place still function correctly with half of the material removed???
I am handy with a wrench. I know how offset keyways work but can't wrap my mind around this remove half thing.

Anybody got pics????

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My dealer said he would just remove the key instead of grinding it down

I ordered 2 more 385s they are on back order here , and as far as the 540 forget about it ! That's what I was told forget about it .

ozzy42 said:

Please help me to understand the timing advance dealio.
I'm not getting the idea of grinding on a key way then putting it back in and it working properly.
What I'm not getting is ,,,how will a pc. that is precision machined to hold a part in place still function correctly with half of the material removed???
I am handy with a wrench. I know how offset keyways work but can't wrap my mind around this remove half thing.

Anybody got pics????

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your not taking from the actual cylinder wall only the ports. by lowering the exhaust and intake ports it causes the saw to let fuel and air in faster thus advancing the timing. you can also take away from the base of the cylinder called setting the squish that will also raise compression.

The intake and exhaust port don't dictate how the piston will fit or ride. The only bad thing that can happen is if you take to much off the ring will get caught on the lip of the port and come off.

What i have done and im a novice is move the piston up and down with my hand and look through the exhaust port lets say if thats the side you or working on and then keep shaving some off and looking to see if your going to far.

If you really wanna get crazy you can start messing with the pistons skirt.

Up untill a year ago i knew nothing about this i learned it all from another member here in the chainsaw forum and started tinkering. i have 2 saws i need to get his way at the moment to get some work done. if your not doing major surgery you can do it your self.

ozzy42 said:

Please help me to understand the timing advance dealio.

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The taper of the shaft actually holds the flywheel. The key is just for alignment.
I have installed flywheels (1127 series) with the cast-in key broken out with no problems.

ozzy42 said:

Please help me to understand the timing advance dealio.
I'm not getting the idea of grinding on a key way then putting it back in and it working properly.
What I'm not getting is ,,,how will a pc. that is precision machined to hold a part in place still function correctly with half of the material removed???
I am handy with a wrench. I know how offset keyways work but can't wrap my mind around this remove half thing.

Anybody got pics????

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Ill take some pictures when i get back i do have a 360 cylinder I've been working on. Getting a little advanced for me saw might not even run when done but i have to figure it out sometime.

But like i said before you probably dont even need to mess with the timing to get some gains in power and performance. Mine has way way better throttle response after just cleaning it up inside. Those stock ports are for #### really rough no smoothness to them. That all restricts air flow.

kr5258 said:

The taper of the shaft actually holds the flywheel. The key is just for alignment.
I have installed flywheels (1127 series) with the cast-in key broken out with no problems.

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Yes the taper will hold it. but by grinding the key 1/3 to 1/2(i did a 1/3 on mine)it acts like a gage. Otherwise you have to use a degree wheel, and thats beyond me at this stage. Looking down at the flywheel fins up, you grind off(I used a jewelers file)off from the left side. It spins CCW. Its a little scary drilling and grinding on a new saw I know, especially if your not real confident of your ability as a saw mechanic, but its not that hard and anything you f_ _ k up can easily be replaced if need be.
I have no problem asking dumb questions on the saw forum.(or here for that matter) Those guys are very helpfull, you run into a problem or have a question all you have to do is ask them. I'll help if I can but I just follow their directions and cross my fingers.
I have repaired a lot of saws by asking questions on the saw forum. They have made me look good several times and saved the day many more with their willingness to help.

2treeornot2tree said:

I am confortable with everything but the timing, and the limiter. Anyone have pics/video showing how to adjust the timing?

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I don't think the timing advance it quite necessary. Opening up the muffler and unlimiting the carb are the key things to do. Brad picked up some with the timing advance, but not as much as the other mods.

2treeornot2tree said:

My dealer said he would just remove the key instead of grinding it down

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The key is "molded" into the flywheel and not removable. You grind away about a 1/3 or so of it, install the flywheel on the saw and turn it CCW till the key hits in it's groove, then tighten the flywheel down with the flywheel nut. Make sure the flywheel doesn't move when tightening the nut as you are turning it CW and it may cause the flywheel to move in that direction, hence defeating the advancement.

Filing makes sense now. I will file 1/2 of the key off and give it a try.