Greener
ArboristSite Operative
How much burn on a split tail (I use a blake's hitch) should cause me to change it out? How much is too much? We're talking XTC 12-strand 1/2" rope. Thanks.
Rope Burn
- Thread starter Greener
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tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
Personally, I will be switching my I2I out a lot more often than I have in the past. I had a nasty fall last Summer where working with a slick prussic and a worn out climbing line were key factors in my friction hitch not biting. It happened when I slipped while climbing an Ivy covered tree. Came 30' out of the tree. I got real lucky and caught a bull line that I had preinstalled in the tree and was not hurt but I sure learned a lesson about working with worn out gear.
squad143
Tree Guy
I don't use a blakes (I use a eye to eye beeline with a swabish knot), but I think any signs of burn on something you hang your life on would be worth a change. We're only talking $30 here. If you find that your burining your blakes alot, try switching to beeline or ice, they have a higher melt temperature.
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Rickytree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Climbed on my years ago till it was like half way. Not the smartest thing i've done. If it's buying a split tail that is stopping you from switching it out just cut a piece of rope 6 feet long( different colour is good) and tie a fishing knot to your beaner. You do alot of crane jobs? sometimes its better to come down alittle slower. Cheers!
Greener
ArboristSite Operative
Good point, it was a lower quality rope I was using for the split tail. I might look into a beeline, but definitely will be switching this one out. Thanks.
Greener
ArboristSite Operative
arborsoldier
ArboristSite Operative
I'll second that!!! Glad you came out ok too Tree MD. :agree2:
newbym
ArboristSite Member
Better safe than sorry
First off, flex the glazed area; if you can see individual strands flexing separately then the glazing is probably pitch, not melted rope fibers.
If there is any area longer than about 1/2" that is actually glazed, replace the hitch. Those glazed spots are much weaker than the normal bunch of fibers in the strand, and it's very likely to fail under a sudden load (i.e. you drop 4 or 5 feet onto it)
You have to remember that with 12 strand rope, those strands that are glazed aren't just a protective sheath over core fibers that are holding you up, they're the entirety of what is holding you up.
I remember going to a climbing course in Benicia where one of the instructors took some 12 strand then made a fairly deep cut across the rope with a razor. He then passed the rope around and ask us to try to break the rope where he had cut it and nobody could. He then took the rope and made a shallow cut about 1 1/2" down the rope. He grabbed each end, snapped his arms apart, and the rope popped apart right at the slit.
You see, the cut across the rope only compromised a few of the strands, the ones on the back were still totally intact, while the cut going down the rope, even thought it was shallow, compromised every single strand in the rope, all in one concentrated area, so failure was pretty much guaranteed.
That demonstration has stuck with me my entire climbing career...
First off, flex the glazed area; if you can see individual strands flexing separately then the glazing is probably pitch, not melted rope fibers.
If there is any area longer than about 1/2" that is actually glazed, replace the hitch. Those glazed spots are much weaker than the normal bunch of fibers in the strand, and it's very likely to fail under a sudden load (i.e. you drop 4 or 5 feet onto it)
You have to remember that with 12 strand rope, those strands that are glazed aren't just a protective sheath over core fibers that are holding you up, they're the entirety of what is holding you up.
I remember going to a climbing course in Benicia where one of the instructors took some 12 strand then made a fairly deep cut across the rope with a razor. He then passed the rope around and ask us to try to break the rope where he had cut it and nobody could. He then took the rope and made a shallow cut about 1 1/2" down the rope. He grabbed each end, snapped his arms apart, and the rope popped apart right at the slit.
You see, the cut across the rope only compromised a few of the strands, the ones on the back were still totally intact, while the cut going down the rope, even thought it was shallow, compromised every single strand in the rope, all in one concentrated area, so failure was pretty much guaranteed.
That demonstration has stuck with me my entire climbing career...
Greener
ArboristSite Operative
Outstanding info. I will definitely consider the number of strands affected on this type of rope.
freeweight
ArboristSite Operative
it is VERY easy to glaze anything ,after coming out 100ft with ol true blue like 5-10ft at a time resting a couple seconds so it wouldnt get to hot there were glazed spots on the rope so i couldnt imagine replacing a rope with a 1/2" glaze ,blakes hitch heats up right where it bights EASILY
my 10mmbeeline glazed a bit the first descent with a distal ,so i dunno
my 10mmbeeline glazed a bit the first descent with a distal ,so i dunno
chad556
ArboristSite Operative
Its a good idea to replace it if your questioning it. Just the fact that you having a funny feeling about it should tell you its about time. Like others have said $30 for a new split tail is nothing compared to an ER visit if things go wrong. There are better things to worry about when your working at heights than the condition of your gear and if that weak spot on your rope is getting any worse.
I use an 8mm bee line for my split tail and it works great, very heat resistant, so much so in fact you cant even seal off the ends with a lighter. (I actually bought a 12 foot section from wesspur and made 3 split tails all for under $30, if one wears out I have two spares ready to go)
Also, consider decending on a munter hitch. I started doing this after I wore out my first split tail. When I am ready to descend I take a carabiner off my lanyard and attach it to my leg strap on my saddle, I then tie a munter hitch on the carabiner and loosen up my friction hitch. Give your climbing line a little slack and down you go nice and controlled and if something goes bad just let go of your friction hitch and it will grab and stop you. This method takes a ton of heat off your rope and puts it on your carabiner instead, good luck trying to melt one of those. Works for me.
I use an 8mm bee line for my split tail and it works great, very heat resistant, so much so in fact you cant even seal off the ends with a lighter. (I actually bought a 12 foot section from wesspur and made 3 split tails all for under $30, if one wears out I have two spares ready to go)
Also, consider decending on a munter hitch. I started doing this after I wore out my first split tail. When I am ready to descend I take a carabiner off my lanyard and attach it to my leg strap on my saddle, I then tie a munter hitch on the carabiner and loosen up my friction hitch. Give your climbing line a little slack and down you go nice and controlled and if something goes bad just let go of your friction hitch and it will grab and stop you. This method takes a ton of heat off your rope and puts it on your carabiner instead, good luck trying to melt one of those. Works for me.
