woodguy105
ArboristSite Guru
Hmmm I was thinking the same thing. Doesn't look too much higher than the mobile home roof line.
:monkey:
Just How Dangerous Is This?
- Thread starter ReggieT
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Hmmm I was thinking the same thing. Doesn't look too much higher than the mobile home roof line.
:monkey:
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
View attachment 273120
Yep, *if* it's solid I don't mind someone else's advise to make a new set of more controllable cuts. But as stated many times before, photos help but never tell the whole story
As for a line...you don't have to climb it to position one though it may take some time.
Get a pull line over it. Fishing pole to cast some nuts over it? Use the fishing line to pull a bit heavier nylon utility line, then once that's positioned pull your bull rope up.
You can tie that line off low -- if you've positioned it so as the slack comes out of the line it actually exerts the pull up in the crotch in the direction you want it to fall. Biggest challenge and were you need patience is working it around all those "water sprouts" at the top to get it just right.
Yep, *if* it's solid I don't mind someone else's advise to make a new set of more controllable cuts. But as stated many times before, photos help but never tell the whole story
As for a line...you don't have to climb it to position one though it may take some time.
Get a pull line over it. Fishing pole to cast some nuts over it? Use the fishing line to pull a bit heavier nylon utility line, then once that's positioned pull your bull rope up.
You can tie that line off low -- if you've positioned it so as the slack comes out of the line it actually exerts the pull up in the crotch in the direction you want it to fall. Biggest challenge and were you need patience is working it around all those "water sprouts" at the top to get it just right.
woodchuck357
Addicted to ArboristSite
The sloped back cut is supposed to prevent kickback
or so I've been told. Something about like making the back cut a few inches higher than the point of the face cut, and just as useless, but the sloped cut may cause a chip to break out if a wedge is driven in.
It looks to have a lot of wood holding in the middle of the notch area. That is why I think a new notch above and in the same direction as the original would be the best bet. No matter how simple a fall is we always put a rope or cable in a tree near structures. If a tree needs pulled with the truck, run the cable thru a snatch block if possible, it helps keep all wheels on the ground and pulling.
or so I've been told. Something about like making the back cut a few inches higher than the point of the face cut, and just as useless, but the sloped cut may cause a chip to break out if a wedge is driven in.
It looks to have a lot of wood holding in the middle of the notch area. That is why I think a new notch above and in the same direction as the original would be the best bet. No matter how simple a fall is we always put a rope or cable in a tree near structures. If a tree needs pulled with the truck, run the cable thru a snatch block if possible, it helps keep all wheels on the ground and pulling.
Last edited:
Chainsaw_Maniac
ArboristSite Operative
For really F'd up situations like this, I carry some steal splitting wedges and a sledge hammer. (The type of steal splitting wedges you would use the split wood).
If that tree falls on the house, your friends is screwed.
If that tree falls on the house, your friends is screwed.
How would splitting wedges be of any help? What would make them better or more effective than plastic wedges?
ft. churchill
Addicted to ArboristSite
What was worrying me was the poor hinge set up, which is what's going to guide the tree for certain down to the chosen landing zone. Any fooling around with wedges will knock it down, but the bad hinge can make it jump and or twist as it comes over. If it falls back onto the sloping back cut, Katie bar the door, it could go just about anywhere. Lookin' at it a second time, a person could stabilize the notch cut with a 4x4 etc. and a couple of wedges on the back cut, then start make a new set of notches above all that mess. Remember to go completely above all of those cuts as if you get your new undercut notch into the sloping back cut, it will be setting up a "siskwheel" type cut which will pull that log 90* from where you expected. Be safe out there.
importjunk
ArboristSite Member
How much for the rights to the video?
opcorn:opcorn:
stihl023/5
Addicted to ArboristSite
Heavy rope or cable truck or tractor and pull.
If he hasn't cut trees before, He needs to refuse doing it for money. Looks like an easy pullover but anything can go wrong and it could fall on the house. Then he would be in trouble. Not worth it. Luckily it has no big limbs. It won't be a hard job for someone experienced.
How does a tree get like that? What is the real story?
"I'll cut till we run out of beer, not a second more"
"my moms calling me, I got to go"
"you sure there was oil in that gas?"
"oh my hand, call 911!!"
"I'll finish up Monday, after my court appointment"
"what do you mean by didn't go to the bank yet"
"your wife looks familiar, did she ever dance over at that place by the airport?"
"I know the saw was right here when we left for lunch"
"I always leave em like this, it dries out the wood faster...I'll be back as soon as your check clears"
"I'll cut till we run out of beer, not a second more"
"my moms calling me, I got to go"
"you sure there was oil in that gas?"
"oh my hand, call 911!!"
"I'll finish up Monday, after my court appointment"
"what do you mean by didn't go to the bank yet"
"your wife looks familiar, did she ever dance over at that place by the airport?"
"I know the saw was right here when we left for lunch"
"I always leave em like this, it dries out the wood faster...I'll be back as soon as your check clears"
stihl023/5
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well that's just mean.:msp_scared:
Bushmans
Smoke Dragon Herder
Oh dang that's funny! You forgot:
"Ok that's perfect now let me go get the Tae-Kwon-Do class"
Chainsaw_Maniac
ArboristSite Operative
You can beat the crap out of the steel wedges with the sledgehammer. Plastic wedges would break (though try plastic first maybe).
I'm trying to provide an option that does not involve having to cut too much with a chainsaw and risk the tree falling the wrong way.
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
Damn, best go tell these folks their plastic wedges are going to break. (Skip ahead to 6:30 if impatient.)
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/leM-d2tIZts?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
To the OP...stick with plastic wedges.
Oh. Thanks. I don't think I'd be wanting to beat the crap out of that tree with steel wedges though.
I don't recall any crap coming out of a plastic wedge. I have sawed them though. It makes for pretty noodly type stuff.
If you are worried about crap, when opening up a road, always look on the other side of the first tree blocking the road. Always.
If you are worried about crap, when opening up a road, always look on the other side of the first tree blocking the road. Always.
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2005
- Messages
- 1,539
- Reaction score
- 1,817
I tried to rep you for that, takes an old country boy to get that one.:msp_biggrin:
You are catching on quick. Can't fix stupid.
Ignoring the slopping backcut for the moment (which is really hard to do), the face cut used is a poor choice for a tree with the top blown out, leaving just a stob. Placing the hinge closer to the center and opening up the face cut will go along way to allowing the stob to be wedged over easier by shifting the center of gravity.
as for the slopping backcut, es car got comes to mind.
If your plastic wedges are breaking, Yer buyin the wrong kind of wedges. Don't think i have ever broke one, have hit em with the saw and buggered em up.
