Dropped the saw off today to be tested, hopefully hear from the doctor tomorrow. It could turn out that it is exactly how he said, a strong runner with good compression, fingers crossed.
Ebay Husqvarna 262xp scored piston. Advice please.
- Thread starter BonScott46
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 262xp ebay husqvarna scored piston
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Dropped the saw off today to be tested, hopefully hear from the doctor tomorrow. It could turn out that it is exactly how he said, a strong runner with good compression, fingers crossed.
Pretty sure it is a 1994 week 33 #1032 from what I have read and what saw troll said. As far as I know the ones without the decomp button, earlier versions, usually have the hda-87. Mine is stamped on the flywheel side of the carb.
Bon..
You said
3. I agree, there is obviously a risk depending on the old seals and the like to hold out. I would not be averse to tearing the thing apart and trying my hand at rebuilding it, but considering my very basic tool collection this is not an option at the moment. I also do not have hundreds of dollars for tools right now. I am trying to search and find reasonable prices on things but this is going to take some time.
So the question still stands....what were you expecting?
If you are looking to start a saw collection then you picked a pretty nice one...no question.
If you picked a saw so you can go out and cut wood immediately then I think you have made a mistake. I'm glad you aren't averse to working on the saw...and this is a pretty easy saw to work on. But if you just go out and cut you may ultimately ruin a collectors item
Personally..I'm not a collector. I try to work on saws that are easy to work on and ones with excellent parts availability. The 262xp is cool....but IMHO more of a collectors item due to lack of parts availability.
So it depends on what you are going for.
I am not collector, nor am I aspiring to be. I expected/hoped for what the seller advertised, a strong runner with good compression. It very well may be just that according to some members here, we will just have to see. I am looking to enjoy this saw by running it as much as I can and maintaining it to the best of my ability which will hopefully improve over time. I am aware that the 2 series saws and it seems the 262's are hard to find parts for. I did not bid on this saw for that exact reason the first time it was out but as it sat there the second time I just couldn't help myself. I am not expecting this saw to last 10 years if the seals are still good. What I am trying to do is address the damage I found on the piston in a way that will not break the bank so that I can enjoy the saw as much as possible until I can either afford to pay a professional to replace the seals, have the proper tools and confidence to crack the bottom end myself or decide to sell it.
I am fine with the price if nothing major needs to be done just bit irked by the sellers lack of information concerning his use of the saw although he probably thinks I a m rediculous for asking so many questions.
Ok .... what the seller said was vague, and you were correct to ask questions. What may prove to be a mistake is to buy ....when you got so few good answers.
Now, if the buyer said "good compression" and you have a compression tester and it only registers 60 psi... then you have something to go back to the seller with. Right now, without a tester, you don't have evidence of compression.
Notice, here in the trading post, most people post photos of the piston through the exhaust port when they are trying to sell a saw. If you bought a saw without seeing such a picture, that is your mistake, not the sellers.
I'm sure the saying in Sweden is the same..."buyer beware". ie, don't buy if you have a vague seller, a 26 year old saw with little history, no compression # and no view through the exhaust port.
Now, what CAN you do. #1, i would get a compression tester and get a number. If good, then perhaps other members here are correct... just get a new piston and away you go! If the # is bad, then I'd go back to the seller with that information and tell him that he misrepresented the saw. Ebay here listens to those type of complaints, and is on the buyer's side. If you have real evidence that the compression is low, then you can go back to the seller and ask for some money back. Personally, I'd ask for half. This saw is old enough to necessitate a case split teardown. $390 is darn close to a price I'd pay for a rebuilt saw.... though if it has an 87 and ks it IS worth a bit of a premium, no question.
BEFORE you tear it down, do a pressure test. My opinion is that buying such a saw DOES commit you to having certain pieces of equipment....compression tester, and pressure test equipment (which is not expensive).
The only other most expensive piece of equipment that you might want is a case splitter, but that you can make, especially if you have access to a mig welder. I built mine with a piece of 2"x2" square tube, a few 3/4" nuts and some 3/4" threaded rod.
So, things to do overall. #1, see if you can get $ back from the seller, because he misrepresented the item, just need to gather the right evidence #2, get some equipment and learn on a great saw #3, if this saw really isn't for you and you just need to do some cutting, buy a different saw...one that is easier to get parts for ...
I would not send it back to the seller, there are plenty of people that would love to have and take care of that saw.
Best of luck whatever you decide... i'm always available to help if need be.
Now, if the buyer said "good compression" and you have a compression tester and it only registers 60 psi... then you have something to go back to the seller with. Right now, without a tester, you don't have evidence of compression.
Notice, here in the trading post, most people post photos of the piston through the exhaust port when they are trying to sell a saw. If you bought a saw without seeing such a picture, that is your mistake, not the sellers.
I'm sure the saying in Sweden is the same..."buyer beware". ie, don't buy if you have a vague seller, a 26 year old saw with little history, no compression # and no view through the exhaust port.
Now, what CAN you do. #1, i would get a compression tester and get a number. If good, then perhaps other members here are correct... just get a new piston and away you go! If the # is bad, then I'd go back to the seller with that information and tell him that he misrepresented the saw. Ebay here listens to those type of complaints, and is on the buyer's side. If you have real evidence that the compression is low, then you can go back to the seller and ask for some money back. Personally, I'd ask for half. This saw is old enough to necessitate a case split teardown. $390 is darn close to a price I'd pay for a rebuilt saw.... though if it has an 87 and ks it IS worth a bit of a premium, no question.
BEFORE you tear it down, do a pressure test. My opinion is that buying such a saw DOES commit you to having certain pieces of equipment....compression tester, and pressure test equipment (which is not expensive).
The only other most expensive piece of equipment that you might want is a case splitter, but that you can make, especially if you have access to a mig welder. I built mine with a piece of 2"x2" square tube, a few 3/4" nuts and some 3/4" threaded rod.
So, things to do overall. #1, see if you can get $ back from the seller, because he misrepresented the item, just need to gather the right evidence #2, get some equipment and learn on a great saw #3, if this saw really isn't for you and you just need to do some cutting, buy a different saw...one that is easier to get parts for ...
I would not send it back to the seller, there are plenty of people that would love to have and take care of that saw.
Best of luck whatever you decide... i'm always available to help if need be.
At this point, I would forget what the seller said. You have a very desirable saw that looks to be in excellent condition that MAY have a couple relatively minor issues.
I would not run the saw. I would recommend a vac and pressure test before anything else.
Forget the compression test. Pull that cylinder. It's simple to do. I believe you will find the cylinder to be clean. If not, I recommend cleaning it by hand only.
Without experience it's easy to damage the cylinder if using power tools. 320/400 grit wet/dry will be sufficient. Use a light oil for lubricant.
I would simply replace the piston and ring as a set. They're not that expensive and your saw is worth it. Do it right the first time and enjoy the rewards later.
I would also recommend inspecting the fuel system. Inspect/replace the fuel line and filter. Clean the carb and put a diaphragm kit in it.
Do those things now and you'll know that you have a solid saw in great condition that you can trust to run well for many years to come.
I would not run the saw. I would recommend a vac and pressure test before anything else.
Forget the compression test. Pull that cylinder. It's simple to do. I believe you will find the cylinder to be clean. If not, I recommend cleaning it by hand only.
Without experience it's easy to damage the cylinder if using power tools. 320/400 grit wet/dry will be sufficient. Use a light oil for lubricant.
I would simply replace the piston and ring as a set. They're not that expensive and your saw is worth it. Do it right the first time and enjoy the rewards later.
I would also recommend inspecting the fuel system. Inspect/replace the fuel line and filter. Clean the carb and put a diaphragm kit in it.
Do those things now and you'll know that you have a solid saw in great condition that you can trust to run well for many years to come.
I agree with Brad ^ well said. That's a nice saw that has a LOT going for it, I would be keeping it and make the most of it by doing things right from now.
Prolly can salvage the cylinder as brad said...hope so as.New ones are nla here in the states. Maybe everywhere. But am pistons should be available. My hunch is you might want to budget for a piston, new carb (I've fought with those damn thing's to the point it's worth just getting a new onw!), and rubber parts. Fuel line tank vent etc. And.....case seals. I've seen the seal holder on the flywheel side leak as there is both a seal there and rubber oring under the "holder". They sometime flex. 1184 helps along with new seal & oring. Obviously that saw got scuffed inside...They question is why. Air leak? Fuel supply? Be a pain to dump a top end w/o solving the cause.
Brad a compression test at this point only helps him get some money back other than that that's saw is coming apart just like you said
Let's see what the verdict is when it comes back from the shop
Let's see what the verdict is when it comes back from the shop
Tor R
Addicted to ArboristSite
You will know almost everything when you get the saw back from vacuum and preasure testing.
You've paid 390$ for it in Sweeden, about 3400 SeK, part prices in Scandinavia is totally different compared to US, not saying it's a bad deal but it aint a great deal either.
You've paid 390$ for it in Sweeden, about 3400 SeK, part prices in Scandinavia is totally different compared to US, not saying it's a bad deal but it aint a great deal either.
Update: Dropped the saw off at the only Husky dealer in town today. Told him I wanted a pressure/vac/compression test. Told him I had taken off the muffler and saw the piston was damaged but wanted to know if it was because of a leak or bad fuel/tuning. Clarified with the guy three times because I am telling him all this in swedish. Satisfied that he understood the situation I went home. He calls later to tell me that he has taken off the muffler and pulled the plug saw the piston and cylinder were damaged and wanted to know if I wanted to order another set, the cylinder only being 350-400 bucks. I said no then told him again what I had said this morning. I said again I only want to know if it is leaking so I want him to run a pressure/vac test and a compression test if it is not. He then told me he will do a pressure test and check the compression tomorrow but does not do vacuum testing. Since he is the only guy in town and the next dealer is an hour away I told him to get on with it.
Is this all worthless without a vacuum test?
Is this all worthless without a vacuum test?
I agree and with the horrible exchange rate for the last year and a half parts from the States are not much cheaper.
Forgot to mention that I checked by hand for up and down movement on both the flywheel and clutch side bearings when I first got the saw home. They seemed tight, I could not feel ANY play whatsoever. I don't know how reliable that is but there you go.
A scored piston will sometimes make good compression. You already know it has damage/wear. That's why I said skip it. IMHO, the damage to your piston looks more like scuffing rather than actual scoring. That being the case, I fully expect compression to be acceptable and for the saw to run fine, just as advertised. My recommendations are noted above in my first post.
SawTroll
Information Collector
That number points at 1994 week 33, and then the IPL listed a cylinder with decomp valve and a HDA-120 carb. That isn't 100% reliable info for a couple of reasons though, so you need to look closer at it...
I read your previous post and was planning on doing as you suggest. The compression test is more for my own piece of mind I guess. What I am wondering is if no vacuum test nullifies the pressure test if it comes out showing no leaks?
Find a new mechanic that knows what a vac test is.....I have a hard time believing a dealer doesn't know how to do one.
A compression test could have been done in the time it took to make a phone call.
A compression test could have been done in the time it took to make a phone call.
CascadeHusky
ArboristSite Operative
If you only test pressure, then only a failing test will tell you what you need to know.
He was the mechanic at the dealer as far as I was told... he did not inspire confidence.
At some point a vac test by a dealer is wasted money. On an old saw like that u just need to go straight to seals and the like. Bearing...at lease check them. Seals on the flywheel side would probably cost less to replace in time than the vac test! Now for the hobby guy where time isn't money....
