Can I soak everything, plastic, rubber, metal in degreaser? Want to clean up the outside of the cylinder especially.
Ebay Husqvarna 262xp scored piston. Advice please.
- Thread starter BonScott46
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- 262xp ebay husqvarna scored piston
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Tor R
Addicted to ArboristSite
Start to sand with grit 220.
There is so little transfer so sand with your hands.
Meteor piston comes in 4 different size for 262, there is a letter knocked in your cylinder close to where the plug is, if it's A then you order Meteor A piston, B then B piston.
Other parts if you buy them from your dealer:
Seals: 2× # 505 27 57 19
O-ring: 1× # 740 48 27 02
Gasket kit set: 1× # 503 54 62 02 (you need 3 of 4 from the kit)
Carb kit set: 1× # 503 54 76 01 (diaphragm set)
Fuel line: 1× # 581 75 61 03
There is so little transfer so sand with your hands.
Meteor piston comes in 4 different size for 262, there is a letter knocked in your cylinder close to where the plug is, if it's A then you order Meteor A piston, B then B piston.
Other parts if you buy them from your dealer:
Seals: 2× # 505 27 57 19
O-ring: 1× # 740 48 27 02
Gasket kit set: 1× # 503 54 62 02 (you need 3 of 4 from the kit)
Carb kit set: 1× # 503 54 76 01 (diaphragm set)
Fuel line: 1× # 581 75 61 03
I was not aware that anyone would sell you incrementally sized A/B pistons.
the meteor pistons are marked I think.... but I don't know who to ask to get an A or a B
I looked at the piston because I could not see a stamp on the cylinder. There was an A stamped on top that I had previously thought was the arrow pointing to the exhaust side.
I have ordered the parts now I just need to wait until they arrive, disassemble everything, replace all the parts, and put it back together without an air leak.
Tor R
Addicted to ArboristSite
sadly, most sellers or buyers doesnt pay attention. Doesnt help that Meteor ship random to their network.
Both Stihl and Husky left this A B C D system, nowadays I think you only get AB piston from them.
I've bought from the Greek, I always put a note of what dimension I want, and get what I want.
I know DD pay attention to A B C D system, and if I lived in US I would bought from him.
Will post some pictures when I get the cylinder sanded in the next couple of days.
sounds good! looking forward to the build!
A good tuner will pay attention to match cylinder/piston. If you have heavily worn cylinder you have piston options for best rebuild result. Their is a method to this madness, OEMs have been doing this for many decades, my Contra cylinder is a 'C' for example.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
I had never heard of this before...interesting.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Me either and I've rebuilt a few dozen saws in the last 2 years.
Got the package with the piston a couple days ago. The guy sent a B sized piston even though I asked for an A sized. he sent me a message saying it will work fine as long as the cylinder is not new .02mm bigger he says. Then he sent a message saying to be sure and have a mechanic measure it before I put it in. What do you guys think? Was also wondering how to figure out what pitch this saw is. Are all 262's 3/8 stock?
Run it.
Donnieboy
chainsaw guy
SawTroll
Information Collector
.325 was most common in Europe, while I believe 3/8" was in the US. Get a new rim if the existing one is worn - and then the choice is yours anyway.
How can I tell which it is? Is it stamped someplace? Do I need to count the number of slots for the drive links?
So I measured the chain that came with the saw, duh. It is .325... Do I only need the rim as long as it is 7 tooth? There seems to be a different rim after 1993 is this correct?
Rims do come in different sizes. Post a pic here showing the size. I'm sure someone will be able to get you a part #
On the 262xp....I think the ideal bar setup is 20" 3/8 050 72dl
On the 262xp....I think the ideal bar setup is 20" 3/8 050 72dl
SawTroll
Information Collector
If the rim is a .325x7, the drum has to be a small 7-spline one, which can take rims that are .325x7, .325x8 or 3/8"x7. There will be more torque on the chain with .325x7, while there will be more chain-speed at the same rpm with the other options. Which "gearing" that works best depends on a lot of factors, and to know what works the best for you, you have to try the options in the sort and size of wood that you are most likely to cut (the most of). Personally I wouldn't bother with trying .325x7 on that saw, as it is a strong saw for the wood I usually cut.
If you go 3/8"x7 (my personal choice so far on similar size/power saws in my wood) - make sure you get the rim that is for small 7-spline drums, as there is one for the standard (some times called large) 7-spline as well, and that is the one that dealers are most likely to have in stock (unless they have both).
The linked 262 IPL lists the 3/8x7 rim for the small 7-spline, later IPLs I looked in shows the standard spline one. http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/husqvarna262-1992-11.PDF The Oregon part number is 18720.
Make sure not to buy a Stihl rim, as those aren't small spline, they are mini 7-spline, despite Stihl calls them small (+ they cost more, for no reason but the name on them).
