Ebay Husqvarna 262xp scored piston. Advice please.

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Start to sand with grit 220.
There is so little transfer so sand with your hands.

Meteor piston comes in 4 different size for 262, there is a letter knocked in your cylinder close to where the plug is, if it's A then you order Meteor A piston, B then B piston.

Other parts if you buy them from your dealer:
Seals: 2× # 505 27 57 19
O-ring: 1× # 740 48 27 02
Gasket kit set: 1× # 503 54 62 02 (you need 3 of 4 from the kit)
Carb kit set: 1× # 503 54 76 01 (diaphragm set)
Fuel line: 1× # 581 75 61 03
 
I looked at the piston because I could not see a stamp on the cylinder. There was an A stamped on top that I had previously thought was the arrow pointing to the exhaust side.
 
I was not aware that anyone would sell you incrementally sized A/B pistons.
sadly, most sellers or buyers doesnt pay attention. Doesnt help that Meteor ship random to their network.
Both Stihl and Husky left this A B C D system, nowadays I think you only get AB piston from them.

the meteor pistons are marked I think.... but I don't know who to ask to get an A or a B
I've bought from the Greek, I always put a note of what dimension I want, and get what I want.
I know DD pay attention to A B C D system, and if I lived in US I would bought from him.
 
A good tuner will pay attention to match cylinder/piston. If you have heavily worn cylinder you have piston options for best rebuild result. Their is a method to this madness, OEMs have been doing this for many decades, my Contra cylinder is a 'C' for example.
 
A good tuner will pay attention to match cylinder/piston. If you have heavily worn cylinder you have piston options for best rebuild result. Their is a method to this madness, OEMs have been doing this for many decades, my Contra cylinder is a 'C' for example.

I had never heard of this before...interesting.
 
Got the package with the piston a couple days ago. The guy sent a B sized piston even though I asked for an A sized. he sent me a message saying it will work fine as long as the cylinder is not new .02mm bigger he says. Then he sent a message saying to be sure and have a mechanic measure it before I put it in. What do you guys think? Was also wondering how to figure out what pitch this saw is. Are all 262's 3/8 stock?
 
So I measured the chain that came with the saw, duh. It is .325... Do I only need the rim as long as it is 7 tooth? There seems to be a different rim after 1993 is this correct?
 
So I measured the chain that came with the saw, duh. It is .325... Do I only need the rim as long as it is 7 tooth? There seems to be a different rim after 1993 is this correct?

If the rim is a .325x7, the drum has to be a small 7-spline one, which can take rims that are .325x7, .325x8 or 3/8"x7. There will be more torque on the chain with .325x7, while there will be more chain-speed at the same rpm with the other options. Which "gearing" that works best depends on a lot of factors, and to know what works the best for you, you have to try the options in the sort and size of wood that you are most likely to cut (the most of). Personally I wouldn't bother with trying .325x7 on that saw, as it is a strong saw for the wood I usually cut.

If you go 3/8"x7 (my personal choice so far on similar size/power saws in my wood) - make sure you get the rim that is for small 7-spline drums, as there is one for the standard (some times called large) 7-spline as well, and that is the one that dealers are most likely to have in stock (unless they have both).

The linked 262 IPL lists the 3/8x7 rim for the small 7-spline, later IPLs I looked in shows the standard spline one. http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/husqvarna262-1992-11.PDF The Oregon part number is 18720.

Make sure not to buy a Stihl rim, as those aren't small spline, they are mini 7-spline, despite Stihl calls them small (+ they cost more, for no reason but the name on them).
 
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