Chain Grinders

[James Sawyer]

I ran a search on chain grinders and seem there's a lot posts on this subject but a few years back...2015 was latest I found. I'm sure they could be some changes over years since 2015. I was really leaning towards Maxx but Oregon seem to hold true. Are these tools still being manufactured in same place with the same materials, same qual. I really like to stay in $350 price range, I know a lot people like the NT one. I have a harbor freight, it works but not the best and take to much time messing with it so I not wasting my chains. I want one that hold the chain solid and position repeatable... reasonable cost. I want to avoid over heating my chains too. I also some advice on dressing the wheels, or diamond wheels worth the money.

So in this price range what is the best these days...I saw some neg. stuff on the maxx with angle ect. but watching the youtube videos it looks pretty good. Also, I'm not looking for wall mount but stand type. The reason I like the Maxx is the auto chain lock. Also who has the best prices?

 

[Efisher26]

My harbour fright chain grinder works great and inexpensive.


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[huskihl]

Here's the Best Buy going right now. I don't think you'll be disappointed

https://maverickmowersupply.com/700...MIhpjVrbCl4QIVCLbACh3K_gmhEAQYASABEgIvf_D_BwE

 

[Kensie1988]

I second the above, that grinder has all the advanced setting you need for a nasty sharp chain. The centering adjustment is probably the single most important thing on the round grinders.

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[Kensie1988]

As for overheating the teeth, a lot of that is technique, but there is a high end wheel you can get that doesn't overheat the cutters near as bad but it's as much as the grinder is, just be sure you keep your wheel dressed properly. Technique will come in time.

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[James Sawyer]

Here's the Best Buy going right now. I don't think you'll be disappointed

https://maverickmowersupply.com/700...MIhpjVrbCl4QIVCLbACh3K_gmhEAQYASABEgIvf_D_BwE

Huskihl I'm assuming you have a Super Jolly W / Hydraulic Clamp grinder. I noticed on the youtube video ( ) the chain rises a bit when it clamps. Do you find the depth adjustment consistent? Just wondering seems like the hydraulic clamp isn't closing even and push the chain up and the chain isn't sitting on the rails flush when the wheel grinds the cutter. What's your thought on that...have you noticed a problem with the grinder cutting into the chain uneven depth?

 

[Kensie1988]

I can say I've noticed a bit of a rise myself on the manual clamp, but as long as you pull the chain back against the stop when it clamps your depth of grind will be controlled by the head of the grinder, I have my depth stop scoped all the way in and free hand the depth of grind to where I want it by eye, which is just above the tie strap, if you free hand it like this, if or when the chain does rise up a little bit you can hit your depth every time without having to re adjust the depth stop.

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[Jan-Sietze]

Güde (german made)
does the trick for me...

 

[James Sawyer]

I can say I've noticed a bit of a rise myself on the manual clamp, but as long as you pull the chain back against the stop when it clamps your depth of grind will be controlled by the head of the grinder, I have my depth stop scoped all the way in and free hand the depth of grind to where I want it by eye, which is just above the tie strap, if you free hand it like this, if or when the chain does rise up a little bit you can hit your depth every time without having to re adjust the depth stop.

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That price is really good, your right best price around that I could find.

 

[James Sawyer]

View attachment 726157

Güde (german made)
does the trick for me...

Not finding one this side of the pond

 

[Kensie1988]

That price is really good, your right best price around that I could find.

I've seen the more expensive Oregon's operate and I personally have a Tecomec grinder and that grinder can do everything a $600 Oregon one can do, the motor may be smaller and the colors aren't as flashy but it's all you would ever need unless you planned on doing it professionally.

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[James Sawyer]

Is a Stens Super Jolly the same as Tecomec super Jolly?

 

[Kensie1988]

It does appear to resemble Tecomec and Oregon. I'm not sure how the agreements are setup up but Tecomec was producing Oregon's grinders and making a cheaper version for themselves. I know stens has a lot of aftermarket parts in Italy and I'm guessing since Tecomec owns those grinders any aftermarket company can reach out and have grinders produced in their name.

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[James Sawyer]

It does appear to resemble Tecomec and Oregon. I'm not sure how the agreements are setup up but Tecomec was producing Oregon's grinders and making a cheaper version for themselves. I know stens has a lot of aftermarket parts in Italy and I'm guessing since Tecomec owns those grinders any aftermarket company can reach out and have grinders produced in their name.

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The reason I was asking the Stens one is $100 cheaper then the Tecomec...looks to be the same grinder. I was hoping someone knew.

 

[Kensie1988]

The reason I was asking the Stens one is $100 cheaper then the Tecomec...looks to be the same grinder. I was hoping someone knew.

I wouldn't sweat it too much they are all using the same parts and they all interchange, there are only a few grinder models that come to mind that are designed a little different than the Oregon grinders. Everything else is pretty much the same grinders that use all the same parts. Stens would be no different.

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[huskihl]

Huskihl I'm assuming you have a Super Jolly W / Hydraulic Clamp grinder. I noticed on the youtube video ( ) the chain rises a bit when it clamps. Do you find the depth adjustment consistent? Just wondering seems like the hydraulic clamp isn't closing even and push the chain up and the chain isn't sitting on the rails flush when the wheel grinds the cutter. What's your thought on that...have you noticed a problem with the grinder cutting into the chain uneven depth?

I dont have one. Mine is the 511ax style. Not sure if the chain is actually moving up when the clamp tightens. It could just be the camera angle where the vise is pushing the chain away, rather than up, into the other half of the vise. But as long as it's consistent, it should be fine

 

[huskihl]

Is a Stens Super Jolly the same as Tecomec super Jolly?

It does appear to resemble Tecomec and Oregon. I'm not sure how the agreements are setup up but Tecomec was producing Oregon's grinders and making a cheaper version for themselves. I know stens has a lot of aftermarket parts in Italy and I'm guessing since Tecomec owns those grinders any aftermarket company can reach out and have grinders produced in their name.

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Tecomec makes them. Oregon and Stens are putting their name on them.

 

[Huskybill]

Why do you need a grinder.? I file my chains 99.999% of the time. If I hit a rock or steel in the tree then I use a replacement tooth kit then grind the new teeth to match the rest only if it’s a new chain with lots of life left in it. Grinders can be very wasteful on the teeth life too. I had a Oregon grinder but didn’t use it much. I made money doing chains at the flea market using a generator with the grinder. I was selling chain loops, files and bars in the off season or between cutting.

Example, on 3/8” chain I use a 7/32” file by itself to hog out the gullet. Then I use a file n guide with a 7/32” file to sharpen the top edge of the tooth. The file n guide sharpens the very top edge of the tooth. After it’s one quick pass on each tooth depending if we don’t hit anything.

 

[James Sawyer]

Why do you need a grinder.? I file my chains 99.999% of the time. If I hit a rock or steel in the tree then I use a replacement tooth kit then grind the new teeth to match the rest only if it’s a new chain with lots of life left in it. Grinders can be very wasteful on the teeth life too. I had a Oregon grinder but didn’t use it much. I made money doing chains at the flea market using a generator with the grinder. I was selling chain loops, files and bars in the off season or between cutting.

Example, on 3/8” chain I use a 7/32” file by itself to hog out the gullet. Then I use a file n guide with a 7/32” file to sharpen the top edge of the tooth. The file n guide sharpens the very top edge of the tooth. After it’s one quick pass on each tooth depending if we don’t hit anything.

The reason I want a grinder is I buy mostly Stihl chains and their hard on files, I do have some Oregon chains which I do file. I have 5 to 10 chains for each saw. I run 18" 20", 25" , 28" and 32" bars I sure filing works for some people but working with my dad I guess I grow up with change out the chain... he taught me get the timber on the ground that money in your pocket. Sharping chains is taking money out of your pocket. I rather sharpen chain in the evening to relax out in the shop. Yes the grinder do waste chain if its not repeatable which cheaper grinders don't have the precision as a better grinder. My dad had expensive grinder forever and when my dad retired my stepmom sold it. I have a HF grinder and I always have to mess with it and does waste chains but it works. I try not to rock my chains but cutting firewood a lot time I have to skid the logs out for easy pickup depending on the time of year how much debris the log collect. With Timber I never have to worry about the debris dulling my chains that much as long as I can see the bark at the end of the cut but it does happen. I guess for me I see the value in a grinder and files can get a better edge but good files are getting expensive ... Stihl chains are just hard on them. I'm sure there other chains that are better for different reasons but I mostly buy Stihl chain and some Oregon chains, I've never tried other brands.

 

[Kensie1988]

I used to think I could get a better edge with a file than a grinder until I figured out how to really use one, now all of my chains are super sharp, and as long as I'm not cleaning up a rocked chain, it takes just a couple taps on the grinder to freshen it up once I have all of my angles established. And I don't grind any of my teeth the same length, I find it wasteful especially if a new chain gets rocked, so I set each raker individually by hand so I don't have to worry about them all being the same length.

I still hand file from time to time, but the grinder is for chains that have stacked up over time.

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