Cylinder Clean up.

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The flappy wheels are not good for cleaning these kind of cylinders. When the paper hits the ports it'll flex out in the opening a little bit and then contacts the opposite edges much harder and eats the plating away.
It isn't a bad idea to use a rolled up piece of wet dry by hand to do a good final cleaning. Or maybe a quick spin with a set of deglazing stones.
 
A strip of red scotchbrite wrapped around a mandrel works good for me, or on bigger cylinders I have a custom made rubber mandrel that will spin a pad shoved in there.
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Acid with heat and these, a little time/patients will clean them up and they will make good compression. They will not hurt platting. Use on a dremel with a shaft. Usually about 30 minutes work, a couple of these and 150+ compression before a few tanks of gas which usually they will improve.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Abrasive-W...008347&hash=item56be534363:g:je4AAOSwws5cPqlc

s-l1600.jpg
 
Thanks guys.
Your terminology for scotch brite is a bit different to mine down under.
The strip mentioned above is know as emery cloth to me.
Scotch brite is a wheel or disc.
Cheers,Chris.
 
Thanks guys.
Your terminology for scotch brite is a bit different to mine down under.
The strip mentioned above is know as emery cloth to me.
Scotch brite is a wheel or disc.
Cheers,Chris.
I apologize. In my pic of abrasives above, scotch brite(which comes in 8x12" sheets) is upper right, strips of sandpaper(in 240 and 500 grit) are below. The gray one some here might call emory cloth.
 
Talking about cylinders with medium to light scratching,with no transfer.
More a final finish.
Cheers,Chris.
I wouldn't do anything if there's no transfer. After I'm done porting a cylinder I do run a 2" scotchbrite drum through the bore a few times to help polish port edges
 
I'm a little more aggressive than most. I don't use acid. I will hand sand if the transfer is light, but I use strips of paper in varying grits in the drill depending on the severity. I always finish with the scotch brite. I'm almost always using a new ring at a minimum so the finishes will wear in together.
 
As in my top pic?
Yours is what I'd call a 60 grit flap wheel drum. It would knock off any any high spots left next to scratches in the plating. I wouldn't try removing enough material so that the scratches were gone. It would also work for adding a slight crosshatch to the cylinder wall, which may help break in the rings. Not sure the latter is necessary though.

This is what I use. Like I said, it's just for polishing port bevels after port work. I think it also de-glazes the cylinder wall a little bit and helps make it shine for taking pictures to send to the customer. Other than that, I don't feel it does much. Some 320 grit emery would probably suffice on the port bevels.

s-l300.jpg
 
The scotchbrite wheels are suppose to work good. Go back and forth to create a cross hatch. Don’t stay turning in one spot. I polish them with a piece of 1500 grit paper. I break the sharp corners on the ports after porting with 1500 paper.

Husqvarna cylinders are hard industrial chrome plating.

I purchased a gear driven adjustable hones for boring nickasil dirtbike cylinder and cylinders with steel and castiron liners. I been using gear driven adjustable hones since my teens.
www.goodson.com

I can bore and hone cylinders from 50cc to 600cc in bikes and any size gas. I do all my own work.
 

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