At what point should I stop sharpening my blade and buy a new one?

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Cuein

ArboristSite Lurker
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I've been milling, and sharpening every 2 cuts or so (depending on wood type). Which after quite a few sharpenings, I'm asking myself...at what point can't I sharpen this any more and when should I replace it?
 
I usually file down to the line, or till I start losing cutters, as long as it can still cut straight. If you lose one cutter, more will soon break off because of the chatter. The less cutter you have, the less kerf also. So, if the bar rails aren't square, or tie straps are worn more on one side from pushing on a dull chain, it may start cutting crooked.
 
If you are proficient enough with the file, it will cut like new until you get past the line and start losing kerf and cutters. Only RIP Moments for chains are damaged drive teeth, rust bad enough to lock it up, outright wear, or enough cutters gone too close together to be able to cut safely.
 
When there is no tooth left.

Where did you see the B-17? I have not seen that one.
It was at the wings of the north airshow in Eden Prairie, MN this year. I took my dad for a ride on it for his 70th birthday. It was amazing!
 
I need to start saving my old chains and sending them to some of yall. Time is money to me. When a chain gets down to the guide line its usually tossed and another one put on. On my felling saw, after I sharpen it once, MAYBE twice, it gets relegated to bucking duties on the yard and I put on a new chain. YES, I can take the time to sharpen one back to as good or better than new, but that time spent doing so is at the expense of production.
 
It was at the wings of the north airshow in Eden Prairie, MN this year. I took my dad for a ride on it for his 70th birthday. It was amazing!
Very nice! I have yet to ride in one but have been in several. A great uncle died in one late in WW2 on his 49th mission.
 
Shorter the tooth the better it displaces the chips which is why you should save a chain till the very end, as in the line scored on top plate.
 
Shorter the tooth the better it displaces the chips which is why you should save a chain till the very end, as in the line scored on top plate.
That's what I do. I have two chains that don't have a line, one is a Forrester that I got with a combo and the other is a woodland pro, supposed to be made by Carlton. The Forrester is a good chain, surprised me, the cutters are harder than my Oregon chain. The bar is good too. I haven't used the woodland pro yet.

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Never have I sharpened the blade, dressed it several times. Sharpen chain until a small wedge is remaining.
 
When I wear out chains and bars I save them for cutting pallets, crates for firewood. They usually have one or two sharpening left.
 
I need to start saving my old chains and sending them to some of yall. Time is money to me. When a chain gets down to the guide line its usually tossed and another one put on. On my felling saw, after I sharpen it once, MAYBE twice, it gets relegated to bucking duties on the yard and I put on a new chain. YES, I can take the time to sharpen one back to as good or better than new, but that time spent doing so is at the expense of production.
i will take em
 
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