Sachs Dolmar 112 Intro Date? Bar Replacement?

[72Duster]

I've seen 1986, but I think it was way earlier than that. Way back in the day clearing my parent's property (Way Northern Wisconsin) in the late 70's to 1980, the Stihl my Dad bought died and he bought this Sachs. I'm going to be 58 soon and I swear I was no older than 14 when he got it, which would put the date closer to '80-81. Anyway, he loved this saw and the amount of trees felled and cords cut is beyond counting. I inherited it after he passed (WWII Marine Vet, if he were alive, he'd be 102 and I'm the last of ten kids) and it's a beast. Heavy by today's standards and and the 16" blade took some work to get the big birches and poplars down back in the day, lol. A few years back a big "V" shaped maple came down in a windstorm on my property so I busted it out, sharpened the chain and went to work. First day was OK but then it started gagging... Did a multimeter check and sure enough the condenser took a crap so after seeing what the factory tool cost to pull the flywheel, I found out I could easily swap in the Makita electronic coil. Swapped it out and it was like new again! Every year I get a few hours on it and it always performs. I love this thing but it's time to replace the bar due to rust (my fault), but the Oregon chain is still ripping away, even after I let my neighbor use it who "sharpened" the chain for me and I spent an hour fixing his, ahem, sharpening.

So, should I go 18" with the bar? Sucker has plenty of power and I feel it would balance better as it's very butt heavy, or just leave well enough alone?

 

[pioneerguy600]

The bar length really depends more on the size and type of wood one usually cuts, on trees where the bar is not always buried full length a longer bar will work ok and still do a few cuts in bigger wood. I run 20"bars on my 112, 113 an,116 Dolmars but they are not always full bar cuts. A 112 will do ok in softwood species with a 18" bar even full bar cuts but it will be a bit under powered in hardwood, keep the chain sharp and let it self feed ,it will do it but no speed demon. Our 112`s are still running fine and have been since the mid 80`s as operators we never force our saws to cut, the chains are sharpened or in reality they are shaped to cut the species of wood we are into at the time.

 

[72Duster]

The bar length really depends more on the size and type of wood one usually cuts, on trees where the bar is not always buried full length a longer bar will work ok and still do a few cuts in bigger wood. I run 20"bars on my 112, 113 an,116 Dolmars but they are not always full bar cuts. A 112 will do ok in softwood species with a 18" bar even full bar cuts but it will be a bit under powered in hardwood, keep the chain sharp and let it self feed ,it will do it but no speed demon. Our 112`s are still running fine and have been since the mid 80`s as operators we never force our saws to cut, the chains are sharpened or in reality they are shaped to cut the species of wood we are into at the time.

Please explain shaping in regards to species of tree, this sounds like really good stuff. Less of an angle for hardwoods? I'm here to learn...

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yes the cutter can be shaped to self feed in any species of wood, top plate angle is just one of the considerations and so is the shape of the hook below the top plate , more hook,deeper recessed into the cutter makes the chain grab a bit more and helps with self feeding but one needs to know or experiment with the local wood species you are cutting to find the right combination of plate angle and shape of the hook also the shape and desired height of the depth gauges that will work with your powerhead and the type of wood you are cutting. There are numerous threads on this site that deals with chain sharpening and shaping or placement of the hook and depth gauges. In most threads there are pics there also.

 

[scottr]

I've seen 1986, but I think it was way earlier than that. Way back in the day clearing my parent's property (Way Northern Wisconsin) in the late 70's to 1980, the Stihl my Dad bought died and he bought this Sachs. I'm going to be 58 soon and I swear I was no older than 14 when he got it, which would put the date closer to '80-81. Anyway, he loved this saw and the amount of trees felled and cords cut is beyond counting. I inherited it after he passed (WWII Marine Vet, if he were alive, he'd be 102 and I'm the last of ten kidsView attachment 1112974) and it's a beast. Heavy by today's standards and and the 16" blade took some work to get the big birches and poplars down back in the day, lol. A few years back a big "V" shaped maple came down in a windstorm on my property so I busted it out, sharpened the chain and went to work. First day was OK but then it started gagging... Did a multimeter check and sure enough the condenser took a crap so after seeing what the factory tool cost to pull the flywheel, I found out I could easily swap in the Makita electronic coil. Swapped it out and it was like new again! Every year I get a few hours on it and it always performs. I love this thing but it's time to replace the bar due to rust (my fault), but the Oregon chain is still ripping away, even after I let my neighbor use it who "sharpened" the chain for me and I spent an hour fixing his, ahem, sharpening.

So, should I go 18" with the bar? Sucker has plenty of power and I feel it would balance better as it's very butt heavy, or just leave well enough alone?

Hello 72Duster and welcome to arboristsite .
Way back in May 9 , 2010 member andrethegiant70 started a thread 'Philosphy and a Dolmar 114 vs . 112' that will answer your date question .
If the sprocket is good on your bar the rails can be closed and dressed . The rust can also be removed .
I like my 112 with the power match 16" bar .
Scott

 

[pioneerguy600]

The 112 always reminded me of the Stihl 028 in that it would soldier along forever and seldom needed any attention or parts. It was just a well made durable saw, my involvement with Sachs Dolmar began around 1985 when we bought our first two saws from them, they were a 116 and 120 super, still have them and they both still run fine after a 5 year stint of production cutting, not a part or piece was ever replaced on my 120 but my dads 116 did need a module replaced after the mounting screws came loose and the lamination's rubbed hard on the flywheel, the flywheel was gouged badly and it was also replaced. The 112 started showing up at the dealers after 85 but that does not mean they were not manufactured before that time, 50 cc class saws sold more around these parts than any other sized saw but I always like bigger saws for my own use as I would hop them up for production cutting.