357XP case cracking flywheel side

[quattro.pilot]

Hey folks. Have used the knowledge base of this forum to help with tinkering on my saw over the years, but now with a more significant problem of my own I want to reach out for some assessment (whoever cares to chime in). I wasn't able to find much guidance for case cracking hence why I'm starting a unique thread.

If the crack were only through the thin outer edge of the case bezel I wouldn't be as alarmed, but it appears to be slowly running deeper "under" the case and getting into the bell portion behind the flywheel. I'm not sure if at any point it will actually get into the crank case area? I've done some reading.. I understand that JB Weld is likely useless, and that most would suggest TIG with magnesium rods. The other option is just replace that half of the case, if not the entire thing....

I'm just looking for anyone's professional, or unprofessional, assessment of the damage as it currently stands and perhaps a future prognosis.. i.e. could I just completely ignore it and not fix at all? Cheers, thx -Rob

 

[cuinrearview]

I'd be on the lookout for a case half. The PTO side is usually the problem with those so you should be able to find something.

 

[old guy]

I'me thinking jb weld would fix that, grind the crack out from inside the with your dremel, grind the paint off all around the area. Clean it, clean it, clean it with whatever is recomended by jb weld. Fill that area with as much jb as there is room for, it will take 3 or 5 days as you let layers dry.

 

[Derf]

The very early (2001-2002) 357xp cases were weak and there was an updated casting used for later models (2003-2011). Most of the time it is just a crack at the front lower AV spring, and the TSB only mentions reinforcing the crankcase on the PTO side. But it could be that the case is weak on the flywheel side too if you have an early model.
Magnesium is one of the most reactive metals. It’s used over aluminum for a crank case because it’s lighter, but a good thump combined with oxidation can cause micro stress cracks that open up over time.
Looking at your pictures it isn’t so much if it fails but when in my opinion. At this point it may be fine, but if you want to keep the saw running forever I’d suggest either keeping a lookout for a friendly TIG welder, or a case half on eBay.
With the former, it may not look pretty, but it may be cheaper than a new case. With the latter, it probably is only going to be worth it for you if you do all the work yourself, because an independent shop will charge you almost as much to buy a new saw.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Rather interesting that my Husky 257 shows none of this wear and tear. I'm thankful for that. The 257 is one of my favorite saws of all time.

 

[furb]

Couldn’t you drill a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading?

 

[L34]

Couldn’t you drill a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading?

Isn't that's what a woman's belly button is for?

 

[Wood Doctor]

You guys have minds that are just like race horses. They run better on a dirt track.