Chain grinder (amazon)

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Huskybill

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who offers a electric chain grinder on amazon that’s reasonably priced that’s good? I been slowly thinking about setting up a chain sharpening shop. Part time a few hours a day. I don’t plan on using the electric grinder much.
 
who offers a electric chain grinder on amazon that’s reasonably priced that’s good? I been slowly thinking about setting up a chain sharpening shop. Part time a few hours a day. I don’t plan on using the electric grinder much.

If it was me setting up for that I’d look into two grinders one to do your cutters and one for depth gauges.
What’s your price range?


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who offers a electric chain grinder on amazon that’s reasonably priced that’s good? I been slowly thinking about setting up a chain sharpening shop.
1. If you are planning on starting a sharpening business with it, you don't want a cheap grinder. You want something you can rely on for good results.

2. Cheap grinders come with cheap wheels, which are the most important part: it would be like running cr*p chain on a good saw, or cheap tires in a nice car.

Best deal on the Internet, IMO, for a basic, quality grinder:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-Co...681932?hash=item593e15710c:g:nu0AAOSwySFZfiXE

Good quality with good quality, Italian wheels, for about the price of buying a clone grinder and replacing the wheels.

Lacks the 'down angle' feature and built-in light if those are important to you. If so, go up a model from the same seller (US importer).

Philbert
 
I have a Tecomec Super Jolly which gets a decent amount of use per week 20+ a week if you’re going to do something to make a living look into something with a hydraulic vise.


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I notice with some who make a living grind too much off the teeth. This is why I hand file my chains. I try to make the chains last as long as possible. Unless there hitting the ground and rocks.
 
My first post on A.S. (13 years ago!) was on this, and there have been dozens of threads debating this: you only take off as much as you want, but I have to take off a certain amount of metal, whether it's with a file, grinder, Dremel, rabid ferret, etc.

And guys who 'burn'cutters are trying to hog off too much, use cheap wheels, don't dress the wheel enough, etc.

If you are thinking of doing this as a business, you are going to get a lot of abused chains, that will need a lot of metal removed to fix, even out, etc. Some people blame the grinder, but it is the condition of the chain that requires it.

If a chain just needs a light kiss from a file - those guys will not be bringing their chains to you, 'cause they have a handle on things.

Worth reading a few threads like this:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

Philbert
 
Believe it or not a lot of guys don’t know how to sharpen chains. Everyone I sharpen chains for always comeback.

Is the grinder for round ground chain, does it also do square edge chain?
 
Believe it or not a lot of guys don’t know how to sharpen chains. Everyone I sharpen chains for always comeback.

Is the grinder for round ground chain, does it also do square edge chain?

No a square grinder is completely different in that you move the chain into the vs the round you move the into the cutter.
b37507332f9dd6924a9dfd0964160356.jpg
76d7a81f03d066735429dd061f0a78b3.jpg

These are two of the Silvey grinders I have one is a square(gray) pro sharp model well the other is a round 500 from memory.


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@huskihl has a Oregon clone. Maybe he can point you in the right direction. I'd like to have one someday for depth gauge use.

@Philbert might have a suggestion about which models have been decent also.
Nope. I sold it to a guy that works with me. Ended up getting talked into the super jolly like you have while they were still a pretty respectable buy. I love that thing. I just switch wheels from 1/8 inch to 3/16 to the 5/16 wide wheel for doing rakers
 
How's the auto grinder working out, Philbert?

I'm still waiting for the next version...
 
Nope. I sold it to a guy that works with me. Ended up getting talked into the super jolly like you have while they were still a pretty respectable buy. I love that thing. I just switch wheels from 1/8 inch to 3/16 to the 5/16 wide wheel for doing rakers
I like the super I have as well, and if I was doing sharpening as a business I'd have one, and sometimes I do :).
Just wish I had some way to disconnect the hydraulics from the clamp for the initial setup.
I used another tecomec with the wider wheel for rakers rather than removing wheels, same as I would advise for sharpening for $$$.
If your doing rakers with a grinder, which you'll want to do when guys bring you chains worn half way down that the rakers have never been touched on :eek:, do not take them down all at once or they will harden and then a file won't take them down without ruining it.
 
I like the super I have as well, and if I was doing sharpening as a business I'd have one, and sometimes I do :).
Just wish I had some way to disconnect the hydraulics from the clamp for the initial setup.
I used another tecomec with the wider wheel for rakers rather than removing wheels, same as I would advise for sharpening for $$$.
If your doing rakers with a grinder, which you'll want to do when guys bring you chains worn half way down that the rakers have never been touched on :eek:, do not take them down all at once or they will harden and then a file won't take them down without ruining it.

I know what you mean but it’s great if you’re doing a bunch of chains that are all the same length on the cutters. If you’re using something like 63 or 50 gauge couldn’t you bump the size of the vise up for testing?


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I know what you mean but it’s great if you’re doing a bunch of chains that are all the same length on the cutters. If you’re using something like 63 or 50 gauge couldn’t you bump the size of the vise up for testing?


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You probably could, I'll have to look/try it, never thought of that route. I always wanted to have a master cylinder on the floor run by a foot pedal, wouldn't be too hard to make.
The main reason I haven't done it for mine is I have my bench set up so I can remove my round grinders from the front of it and then I would have something else to move that I would probably want fixed to the ground or a upright on the bench so it didn't move. I have a bunch of brake masters off road bikes that would be easy to convert, maybe when I get the basement all cleaned up, I just bought a bunch of 2x4x8 which is all I needed to make a bunch of shelving down there.
 
So you could bump the chain forward into the wheel without lifting the wheel/head and then moving it forward and bringing it down again, and again, and again:sucks:. Overall it's still way better than opening and closing the vise many times all the way around a loop.
Oh. Yeah lol. That part sucks. But like you said, it’s better than running the vise. I think your foot would probably get sore if you had it on a pedal, and then we’d just be wishing it was on the grinder head LMAO
 
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