McCulloch Chain Saws

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I couldn't find pictures of the fuel line removal procedure in the old service manual that I got from you guys so I thought I'd share the process.,
Theres 2 7/16th hex head 1/4" thread bolts under the tank in the brace ( bolts removed in the pic) 2 similar bolts in the handle top brace corners with 3 5/16ths hex head bolts in between, all handle brace bolts have trapped nuts which will fall out once bolt are removed and 2 very long 5/16ths hex head bolts that pass through the rear of the tank.
Once removed wa la! Tank comes right off and there's no need to split it, unless you want to replace the felt wick filter.
I replaced it with 1/4" tygon so I can watch old crude getting sucked into the carburetor I just rebuilt.
 
Went out to my shop for a while to clean up the carnage from cutting wood Saturday. My PM805 had ran all morning while cutting out in the field but would not start (No fire at the plug) when I got to the wood lot. I worked with it finding out that there was wet sawdust up in the stop switch. I blew it all out with dry air and it started right up. I thought this would be what I would find. So I cleaned it up and put it to bed.

Next was my poor little PM10-10. It, as in the past, has took the brunt of the carnage. This is the second time that I have had to drain the water out of the air box on that saw.

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But now with a good clean air filter and some cleaning I settled it down for a full weeks nap.

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But all are clean and running.

Brian
 
Picked this up last night. Looks to be in original condition and low hours. Still has crosshatching in the cylinder, and if you look closely the top ring still has the grooves in it. Mac 24” bar and chain on it. Needs the fuel system cleaned for sure lol. Extremely happy to find this one.

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I scored 3 new Macs yesterday. The little 1-10 is beautiful cosmetically, but looks to have sat for quite a while. Muffler cover is rotted, hopefully muffler duct isnt. The 1-50 and 250 are complete and both look like they will be easy runners. The 1-50 does have a cracked bar cover and is missing air filter though.20200106_234017.jpg 20200106_234023.jpg 20200106_234028.jpg 20200106_234032.jpg 20200106_234043.jpg
 
I scored 3 new Macs yesterday. The little 1-10 is beautiful cosmetically, but looks to have sat for quite a while. Muffler cover is rotted, hopefully muffler duct isnt. The 1-50 and 250 are complete and both look like they will be easy runners. The 1-50 does have a cracked bar cover and is missing air filter though.View attachment 786377 View attachment 786378 View attachment 786379 View attachment 786380 View attachment 786381
See my post in the 10-10 thread lol.
 
I scored 3 new Macs yesterday. The little 1-10 is beautiful cosmetically, but looks to have sat for quite a while. Muffler cover is rotted, hopefully muffler duct isnt. The 1-50 and 250 are complete and both look like they will be easy runners. The 1-50 does have a cracked bar cover and is missing air filter though.View attachment 786377 View attachment 786378 View attachment 786379 View attachment 786380 View attachment 786381

I love the all yellow 1-10!
 
I scored 3 new Macs yesterday. The little 1-10 is beautiful cosmetically, but looks to have sat for quite a while. Muffler cover is rotted, hopefully muffler duct isnt. The 1-50 and 250 are complete and both look like they will be easy runners. The 1-50 does have a cracked bar cover and is missing air filter though.View attachment 786377 View attachment 786378 View attachment 786379 View attachment 786380 View attachment 786381

I believe that the full wrap on the 1-50 will also fit the 250.
 
Yeah I've had a few of these large frame Macs and have put a full wrap on 250 before. My question is why don't you ever really see 250s with full wraps? Were they more of a home owner saw? I know the 250 was generally built a little later and it seemed these 80cc saws got a bit stronger as time went on. Is it safe to say the 250 will be a bit stronger than the 1-50 or will they have similar power?
 
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I've been meaning to post more often but here's a couple pics of a custom 700 that I rebuilt and painted up all black. The clutch cover and starter are factory black. I used Klass Kote Epoxy paint which is fuel proof. It turned out very well, and I have a 'show' bar for it too, right now it has a 24" break-in bar on it ;)
Eric
 
Also, when guys compare the 7-10 vs 700 a lot of them say the 7-10 is stronger, and it's been speculated that the porting is different. On this build I actually recorded the port timings and ignition timings. The intake duration on this stock 700 was only 126 degrees and the exhaust duration was 156 degrees. The ignition timing was 22 degrees advanced, which is less than what it's supposed to be from the factory. I modified the key and clocked the flywheel to get 26 degrees. I also modified the piston on the intake side to get an intake duration closer to 145 degrees. I wasn't sure if it was going to work, but so far so good!!!! Here's a couple more pics of how I did the velocity stack.
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