McCulloch Chain Saws

[Maintenance supervisor]

Pics of my 700 of that version, Differences. The AF cover knob is round and is diecast, likely zinc, tank is grey, fuel line tank pass through fits a 3/16" (not the 1/4" OD line I had thought)

My serial number is 100360. Somewhat later than @ MaintenanceSupervisor 's saw.

Model is 600116-02 The "2" on my plate is mostly covered by the rivet.

I believe the 4300 has the same PN as the 700 but is an -05 at the end of the model number, so 600116-05.

Can you confirm that @kbeck


View attachment 794092 View attachment 794093 View attachment 794094 View attachment 794091

I've contacted a few people who have 4300s from the forums ,soon as I know I'll post it.
Thanks for the pictures, this certainly helps with the stages of the later saws and how they changed. Hopefully if someone else can find this useful information when buying a saw with out the air filter cover or tag.
The only flat slotted screw on my saw is the oil tank cover , is that the same on yours?

 

[kbeck]

Just looked at 4300 60011605

 

[kbeck]

Thought I'd add a couple more pictures of my Mac 4300 Don't have any history
on the saw got it from a guy that buys and turns houses he pulled it out of a semi trailer
so don't think it was altered any

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Thought I'd add a couple more pictures of my Mac 4300 Don't have any history
on the saw got it from a guy that buys and turns houses he pulled it out of a semi trailer
so don't think it was altered any

That's interesting that it has the molded fuel line and square air cover knob.

 

[fossil]

I've contacted a few people who have 4300s from the forums ,soon as I know I'll post it.
Thanks for the pictures, this certainly helps with the stages of the later saws and how they changed. Hopefully if someone else can find this useful information when buying a saw with out the air filter cover or tag.

The only flat slotted screw on my saw is the oil tank cover , is that the same on yours?

I think so. I cannot understand why they used such a combination of screw heads on those saws. They could have made them all the same size Allen or Torx head screws so you only have one tool to carry.

Maybe they didn't want anyone but the shop working on the saws. At least they didn't go with tamper proof heads.

Just looked at 4300 60011605

Thanks for looking. I had always wondered if the 4300 was like the 8200. Thanks for putting that one to bed.

 

[rarefish383]

Joe,

You got the spring end in the wrong spot. It goes against the latch. See below; it can be seen the clearest on the broken cover. Some of mine work flawlessly and some only when you keep the rivet pounded tight and some have a mind of their own.


View attachment 793911

View attachment 793912

Ron

Thanks, Ron. I see where the dog leg fits in the latch. Does the straight part of the spring go against the rod on the flag, that goes into the brake rod/lever? That looks like it would keep tension on it. It also looks like it would slide on easy if I take the bar off. I can't compress the spring with just a screw driver.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I think so. I cannot understand why they used such a combination of screw heads on those saws. They could have made them all the same size Allen or Torx head screws so you only have one tool to carry.

Maybe they didn't want anyone but the shop working on the saws. At least they didn't go with tamper proof heads.




Thanks for looking. I had always wondered if the 4300 was like the 8200. Thanks for putting that one to bed.

They probably had thousands of screws left between production runs, which likely dictated what they used. As they were struggling at the time.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I think so. I cannot understand why they used such a combination of screw heads on those saws. They could have made them all the same size Allen or Torx head screws so you only have one tool to carry.

Maybe they didn't want anyone but the shop working on the saws. At least they didn't go with tamper proof heads.




Thanks for looking. I had always wondered if the 4300 was like the 8200. Thanks for putting that one to bed.

Is the 8200 not like a 4300?

 

[fossil]

Is the 8200 not like a 4300?

No. The 8200 is like the DE80, 800 805........

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

No. The 8200 is like the DE80, 800 805........

View attachment 794188

I see, yup completely different.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Pics of my 700 of that version, Differences. The AF cover knob is round and is diecast, likely zinc, tank is grey, fuel line tank pass through fits a 3/16" (not the 1/4" OD line I had thought)

My serial number is 100360. Somewhat later than @ MaintenanceSupervisor 's saw.

Model is 600116-02 The "2" on my plate is mostly covered by the rivet.

I believe the 4300 has the same PN as the 700 but is an -05 at the end of the model number, so 600116-05.

Can you confirm that @kbeck


View attachment 794092 View attachment 794093 View attachment 794094 View attachment 794091

How do I decipher the serial number ?

 

[rarefish383]

Thanks, Ron. I see where the dog leg fits in the latch. Does the straight part of the spring go against the rod on the flag, that goes into the brake rod/lever? That looks like it would keep tension on it. It also looks like it would slide on easy if I take the bar off. I can't compress the spring with just a screw driver.

I see how it goes on. I was doing it right after you got me straight on the spring. I had it close a couple times and the hooked end of the spring popped out of it's notch. Got frustrated and called it quits for the night.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Interesting you say that fossil cause I was actually thinking about it and I think I also had a 700 with same set up as that 10-10s. Here's a pic of it, was a pretty clean saw.View attachment 793900

I see his has the slotted screw holding the tank down.

 

[huskadolmar]

I have had more than one 82cc mac do that to me. 2 were pm800,s. On the 800's both times it was an air leak. Same on both it was the boot. It was not sealed well at the fuel tank. So back apart and i put some rtv around the top of the boot, not too much, and put it together. After several hrs of curing i checked them and bingo Idled fine and ran perfect. There was no holes or tears they just did not seal well against the fuel tank.
Same for a pm850. I make it a point now to just do that to save the aggravation. On reassembly seal it with something. I use red rtv cause i have it. I hope that may help you.

Close on that one. The new intake didnt fit right after running a bit. The bottom where it goes on the plastic block was being swelled out of round. I trimmed a little off the outside of the base of it and rtv on it and its much better. Still a weird issue though. Improved quite a bit though. I dont know how it will start cold yet but it runs better and has a little more power in the cut.

 

[rwoods]

I see how it goes on. I was doing it right after you got me straight on the spring. I had it close a couple times and the hooked end of the spring popped out of it's notch. Got frustrated and called it quits for the night.

There is a trick to it, but I can't visualize it well enough to tell you how to do it without actually doing it.

Sorry, Ron

PS In my opinion the spring to latch fit in the older short cover was much better. They are more aligned.

 

[fossil]

I see his has the slotted screw holding the tank down.

I forgot about that one plus the two screws at the back of the air box. They're slot's as well. The recoil cover front screw and the one over the coil are a slotted Torx or Allen head. I didn't have my reading glasses with me.

 

[rarefish383]

There is a trick to it, but I can't visualize it well enough to tell you how to do it without actually doing it.

Sorry, Ron

PS In my opinion the spring to latch fit in the older short cover was much better. They are more aligned.

What I kept doing is, just as I got the post into the brake cable, the spring would twist and bind up on the handle. It looks like one of those thing that once you do it, it gets easier.

 

[fossil]

I think I pulled the brake handle out on the stud the stud a bit so I could push it past the forward stop, set the spring, pull the handle back past the forward stop and pushed the handle in. If that makes sense.

Yes they can be a pain in the butt.

 

[rwoods]

NorthEast Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Cool damp day in North East Tennessee, but better than the forecast. A light rain held off until lunch. Though the ground was just as wet or wetter than last week, we were asked to haul since the lot is getting low on logs. Brian and Lee piloted the mighty F150 hooked to our largest dump trailer and I ran the Deere. Couple loads required a pull or push by the Deere to get up the hill. Between loads, I used my 800 to fall a small ash snag and cut it to fit the trailer. After lunch, I used the 700 to buck and limb some overlooked ash stems.

Likely due to my poor maintenance practices, the recoil on the 800 wouldn't engage and the rope wouldn't rewind. Took a lot of jiggling to get it to partially rewind and engage for each pull. Thankfully, it is an easy and reliable starting saw. The 700 has a much thinner cord and thus a much longer one. Its recoil would engage but it wouldn't rewind the last 15" or so (I don't know how long the cord is but it had almost as much left hanging out as the 800 has). With the short strokes it took quite a few pulls to get the 700 going. I guess I will have to tear into them and clean things up a bit. Which leads to the question of the week - what lubricant do you use on your MAC recoil?

No pictures today. I looked through the archives but found nothing that I thought would interest you.

Ron

This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses

 

[rarefish383]

I think I pulled the brake handle out on the stud the stud a bit so I could push it past the forward stop, set the spring, pull the handle back past the forward stop and pushed the handle in. If that makes sense.

Yes they can be a pain in the butt.

Actually, Tim, that does make sense. It seemed like each time I got the post into the brake band, I'd try to push it a little farther and the spring would pop out of it's notch, or twist kind of sideways. If I can get the post in the brake band, then pull it forward a little, the spring might not bind, and let the handle slide down on its pivot. I'll try that tomorrow. I hope that's what you meant.