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I’m in Northern California, so no local advice, but you should be able to find a mill that will do it for you if you call around and ask nicely. While proper PT will last a bit longer, you can always fall back on nasty ol copper green wood preservative applied with a pump sprayer if you strike...

Most unsafe/uncomfortable work positioning issues in spreading canopies can be easily remedied by the use of multiple climb lines. I find it is usually easiest to ascend as high as I can and then spend a few minutes setting an additional canopy anchored line or two, so I always have safe...

Plenty of videos of ported 281s on YouTube lookin like they would run with a stock 066 no problem. Proper port jobs tend to cost $300+ though… You can absolutely do it yourself with access to some pretty basic machining equipment, but even after hours of research, your first attempt will likely...

+1 on starting with the clutch. If that doesn’t fix it you’re probably looking at an air leak and a more significant repair.

Ditch the helmet and visor when milling. While you definitely want eye and ear protection, you do not need top o the dome protection. Switch to safety glasses and earmuffs/plugs and you should have no problem wearing a respirator, which is essential milling PPE, in my opinion. As others have...

You’ll probably be able to extract max value selling the items separately. Nice 084s seem to bring somewhere between $800 and $1200 PHO. You should be able to get at least $400 for a 72” superbar. Might be able to get close to full retail for the mill if you find a buyer eager to get one faster...

I think you won’t regret spending another $70 on a CT foot ascender. I think you also wouldn’t regret spending a further $150 on a SAKA or HAAS. You are missing out on almost all the potential efficiency gains of SRT ascent without these items. I don’t care for the chicane, personally. Feels...

The clamshell saws require more disassembly than pro saws but it isn’t that difficult to replace a top end. Cost will depend on whether the oem cylinder is salvageable or not.

Tracks all day. More surface area equates to more traction as well as less ground disturbance, shallower ruts, etc.

Tracked skid steer (CTL/MTL) with forks or better yet a grapple will definitely out perform most tractor setups. Having yet to have the pleasure of operating a proper log loader, I’m partial to a 4x4 telehandler. If you don’t have to move them too far, an excavator with a tiltrotator and grapple...

With a bandsaw I think there’s little reason to spend too much time planning a re-saw scheme. You’re not wasting a ton of wood (or time) in each kerf like you do with a CSM, so I think you should just shoot for cutting the dimensional bits you might want right from the beginning while the wood...

You’re more likely to get 4 2” slabs from a log that size, though I’m just guessing based on the image provided and assuming 1/4” loss per kerf. Shooting for 4 also makes it possible to hit the pith, which is almost always the best way to go with oak - checking is reduced and you should get a...

Solid bars are definitely better for dealing with the temperatures that can be involved when milling. That said I have cut a lot of smaller slabs with a 20” Tsumura bar and have yet to have any delamination issues. The potential is surely there, though.

I have been milling with a 394/5 hybrid as a secondary powerhead to my 3120xp and find the 8 pin okay with a 24” bar in softwood, and less than desirable in hardwood. Definitely wouldn’t mill with a 42” running the 8 pin. I also wouldn’t mill with a 42” bar on any saw without an aux oiler, even...

That seems like a lot. Base price is $30kish, IIRC. Then again there’s over a page of options for that machine on their price list - the unit you looked at could well have been heavily optioned...

Definitely get a maul. Bigger the better, in my experience. In the modern age,the only useful functions axes serve in relation to firewood production are driving wedges and cleaning out face cuts. Even for splitting kindling they aren’t the best tool - a froe is much safer, faster, and more...

I’ve used all three techniques shown in this video:

A couple more thoughts about safety: After my uncontrolled pendulum experience, I quickly switched to incorporating a simple lowering/rescue redundancy into my primary basal anchor, whenever possible. Petzl Rig makes it pretty idiot proof, but a little portawrap or even a friction hitch can...

I made the very same mistake two years ago, at 40-50ft up, and twice as far out a limb - chose an unsafe branch stub to tie into, rather than getting the lanyard under the main limb I was reducing, and the dynamic movement of taking the tip popped my lanyard off and sent me swinging all the way...

The pinto and pinto rig are pulleys by DMM. Incredibly versatile and strong. If you have sciatica and are interested in doing this, you’re obviously a tough dude, but will benefit immensely from learning to ascend SRS/SRT. So much easier on your back, and your whole body for that matter - will...